With several powered accessories on board, I decided to install a Fuzeblock on my '08 Vision for a cleaner and safer switched power supply.  For those unfamiliar with it, the fuzeblock is a secondary fuse block that includes a built-in relay for switched power for up to 6 accessories.  Currently, I have wired all accessories like the Zumo 665, radar detector and Mix-It2 directly and grounded them in various places.  I like the idea of a dedicated fuse block and cleaner wiring.

The fuzeblock needs a good switched line to get its power and that is my question.  I have the Service Manual and am looking through it, but thought that someone here may have a good suggestion for a switched line on the '08 Vision.  I am considering the harness for the CB, especially since I don't really use it.  Or, possibly the harness (now unused) for the old Street Pilot GPS which I unplugged since the new Zumo can't use it.  I'm not overly confident with wiring, but if the best line is pointed out, I'm sure I could tap into it (if I can find it and be sure of its identity).  Any suggestions are appreciated.  I'll be glad to post pics if I I able to do this.  I already have the Fuzeblock in hand and the wires and necessary fuses.

I finally got around to completing this install and thought I would post some photos of the work.

I picked a rainy day with less heat and, along with my supervising Golden Retriever, set up the work area.

I had 3 devices to power.  Previously, I had simply connected them to various relays in the two fuse boxes under the front access panel.  I wanted to get them powered and grounded separately, so I chose to use a Fuzeblock.  Here are the three devices as mounted on the bike.

I ran two new lines from the battery for ground and a power line with inline fuse.  Using thermal fiberglass braided hose, I routed the new lines up the frame and under the console to a point near the powerlet plug that I would use for additional switched power.

This is a shot with the console on its side, exposing the wiring underneath.  The gray plug is the connected powerlet in the console and the blue plastic piece is a positap that I used to tap into the line for switched power for the fuzeblock.

This is just a closer view of the tap into the switched power line.

This view shows the two hoses containing the new lines.  The braided hose has the 3 power/ground wires, while the split plastic hose has the 3 bundled wire pairs of the 3 devices.  I simply routed the wire pairs of the devices to a central point at the base of the console and put them together in the plastic hose to route as a single unit under the seat and to the point of entry in the right saddelbag mini compartment.

This shows where the 2 hoses enter the small compartment at the front of the right saddelbag.  I drilled a small hole in the compartment for access.

Looking into the saddelbag/compartment from the outside, this is where the wires enter and are connected to the Fuzeblock.

The wire routing under the seat is finished and secured and the entrance is taped over.

The final connections are made to the fuzeblock for testing before sealing everything up.

With everything connected, I tested all 3 devices successfully.  All are switched power and turn on/off with the key.

There are 3 additional inputs available (6 total) and a choice of switched or constant power.  A test ride, including some good bumps, proved successful also and no indications of any issues so far.  Thanks to all those who made suggestions and sorry for the length, but I wanted to document this.  I'm not much of a mechanic or electrician and still managed not to blow up the bike's electrical system or break anything (that I'm aware of).  

Wow Ray, cool job. 

The only thing that you might want to address is where the black and red wires enter the saddlebag compartment.  You might want to rig some kind of protection (grommet) where they come through that hole (2nd to last photo).  There might even be room in the split conduit you already have there.  With all the vibration of the bike, it won't take long for those wires to chafe on that hard plastic.  Really nice job with expandability built in.  How many hours did all that take?

Great job Ray! And thanks for the follow up. I have a fuzeblock laying on my desk as I type this and plan on adding a couple gatdgets in the near future. Great pics as well. They explain much in addition to your written details. This kind of stuff is the best part of this forum, except of course the "motivational posters"

Chris

flint350 - 2010-08-16 4:50 PM Thanks Chris - word of warning: One thing I found out was that the mini-ATM fuses for the block are a VERY tight fit. I actually bent the first pair of pins just trying to get the fuse in place. Scary. I eventually got them to go in, but it was a struggle with a constant fear of bending something and ruining the block. One other thing not shown in my photos is that I mounted the block with the extra plastic backing plate attached. I used sand paper to rough the surface and then attached velcro. So, the block sits securely in place in the compartment. Originally I was going to put it on the other side as you had suggested, but the diagnostic pin took up too much room. It fits very nicely in the right side though with some breathing room. Thanks for all your earlier suggestions.

 One more suggestion regarding the tight fitting fuses. Next time you are in an auto parts store ask for some dielectric grease. This used on the pins will serve two purposes.  1. It will make assembly easier, for these and all electrical push or twist connections, 2. It helps seal out moisture and prevents corrosion and arcing.

Thanks again for the report, well done. Ride safe and enjoy!