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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | Just got back from 500 maintenance. Had them put on the step up voltage reg. Still have issues with dropping voltage. I still remain over 12 most of the time, however below 12v im looking at stalling issues. When engine is engaged, i'm were i should be +/-14.5. Also had the fuel guage stick on almost full. The shop said they tried going into the gas tank to dislodge the float, no joy. Temp guage when it's below 32, will sometime show -9. I know the voltage should remain +/- 14.5. Thus the name Voltage regulator. The shop did the trouble shooting, battery contact and so on but can't fix it. Anyone have an issue with this, or ideas on how to fix it?
Hopefully we can help the next guy out with our answers to these issues. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Hey Buckeye. V-twins 101 installs the leads to a Battery Tender to the battery (why they dont give you the rest is beyond me). You can pick the rest up at an auto supply. When I had my trunk light problem it took over 20 hrs. to fully charge the battery (steady green light). The starter sounds better than when it was new, I dont think the battery was fully charged at delivery. As long as voltage is above 12 volts at idle everythings okay. Mine falls below 13v at idle and I dont have any problems. A battery can only hold so much and when its fully charged the regulator will reduce voltage to the battery. If it falls below 12v at idle then theres a problem. The electrical system on any vehicle (2 or 4 wheels) is the most difficult area to understand for even the most experienced techs. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 22
eastern NC | New batteries can be problems. I put all new ones on a charge to bring them up from the beginning. Doing so can eliminate problems down the road.
Hoss... |
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Tourer
Posts: 547
Mount Vernon, WA United States | I agree with Hoss. I have seen more bad batteries over the past 10 years than ever before. One one of my other bikes I was positive I had an electrical issue. I went through TWO batteries in under two years. Always used a battery tender, etc.. and batteries from two different sources, two different brands. Had to be electrical.... WRONG... Time has revealed it was just two bad batteries. The third battery I bought, I noticed an immediate difference in every aspect. It ran higher, charged higher, kept the charge etc etc... I have heard similar stories from others.
Anyway, when having charging problems, don't overlook the battery, even a new one. |
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | cjnoho - 2007-12-30 5:02 PM Hey Buckeye. V-twins 101 installs the leads to a Battery Tender to the battery (why they dont give you the rest is beyond me). . Actually the leads come standard with the Vision when it is delivered from the factory and the dealer just installs them. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | The day I took delivery of my Vision, the battery was dead. Dealer had to charge for three hours before I could leave. I think this has happened to others also. Then after two days at home it wouldn't start the bike, I wasn't able to ride much the first two days. I put a trickle charge on it for 24 hours and have not had a problem since. Oh, and the dealer did not install my trickle charger leads........ |
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Tourer
Posts: 353
| My dealer told me the first thing they do when prepping a bike for delivery is charging the battery. |
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Tourer
Posts: 547
Mount Vernon, WA United States | tralphaz - 2007-12-31 2:09 PM
My dealer told me the first thing they do when prepping a bike for delivery is charging the battery.
The problem as I see it with the several bad batteries that I have run across, especially the sealed and gel ones, is they "charge" just fine but their "discharge" and "cranking power" never gets to where it should be, and there is no real test of that except time.
Example... If you charge a battery, wait for it to settle (lets say 24 hours) then check the voltage and it's 13.2 volts. In another 24 hours, it's 13.1, and another 24 hours 13.0 there is probably something wrong with the battery.... but who does this. Chances are you've started the bike by then, or at least installed it in the bike by then, but the reality is that it will be quit some time before you start seeing any other signs of a problem. At this rate of discharge it would take a couple of weeks of the bike just sitting to get low enough to not start the bike. If you religiously use a battery tender, you may NEVER see the problem, but in fact it's probably a BAD battery.
==== begin rant ====
Sorry for the rant, but batteries are needed every day for one thing or another, and as a musician and general "gadget geek" I use a lot of batteries. It's not just motorcycle batteries. I recently found a vintage transistor radio with a 9volt battery in it from the 70's. IT STILL WORKED, yet the 9V battery in a guitar effect pedal that I don't use for a month is DEAD!!! Or... even worse the 9V battery I pull out of the NEW PACKAGE bought 3 months ago IS DEAD!!!
==== end rant ====
sorry I just had to.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | O.K, so you think it's the battery? If it holds at just over 14 (as it should) while riding, then clutch (dis-engage the engine) and it drops, your saying the battery is bad? I have no trouble starting it over 3 days of sitting....I don't loose under 12v's unless I get a bit aggressive with the trottle (reving) while coming to a stop. Volts drop, I stall. New Bike, not happy. |
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Tourer
Posts: 547
Mount Vernon, WA United States | BUCKEYE - 2008-01-03 1:50 PM
O.K, so you think it's the battery? If it holds at just over 14 (as it should) while riding, then clutch (dis-engage the engine) and it drops, your saying the battery is bad? I have no trouble starting it over 3 days of sitting....I don't loose under 12v's unless I get a bit aggressive with the trottle (reving) while coming to a stop. Volts drop, I stall. New Bike, not happy.
Well the real issue is you have no way of knowing what the voltage of the battery is when you are riding. You only know what the charging circuit is telling you, and even it could be wrong.
If it was me I would get a cheapo ANALOG (the kind with a needle NOT a digital) voltmeter and hook it up directly to the battery. Maybe use the tail for the battery tender as the connector to make it easy and go for a test ride. Note the voltages when accelerating, idling etc... Also important, note the voltage BEFORE you start, after you start, and then when you shut down... also.. the next day before you go out.
It may NOT be the battery, but why not rule it out if you can. So far everything you have said would have me demanding a new battery if they've already tested the electrical system and say it's fine. It's not magic... if it's not the charging system, it's the battery. If it's not the battery, it's the charging system. OR........ It's an unrelated problem, but you'd need to rule out the charging system and battery first to go there.
FYI, but "unrelated" I mean like (real examples)... wire in cluster on the clutch side of the handlebars shorts when fully engaging clutch lever. (that was particularly fun to find). Then there was Batter Tender lead shorts against frame under seat when going over really big bumps, bike stalls.. That was also rather entertaining to find. Neither on a Vic..
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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | I guess my battery would be the next place to look. I see the logic...you can imagine my dismay when I buy "away" from the HD because of poor quality...Guess with a new production bike, it's hard to trouble shoot problems that haven't arose on any other bike yet. I just jad a thought...wonder if it could be a poor ground somewhere? Will keep at it and post when I fix.. |
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Tourer
Posts: 547
Mount Vernon, WA United States | BUCKEYE - 2007-12-30 3:35 PM
I still remain over 12 most of the time, however below 12v im looking at stalling issues. When engine is engaged, i'm were i should be +/-14.5.
BUCKEYE - 2008-01-03 6:29 PM
I.wonder if it could be a poor ground somewhere? Will keep at it and post when I fix..
It could be... but you would usually see some other indicator. What I see as most telling, is the
"over 12 most of the time," "below 12v im looking at stalling issues" and "When engine is engaged, i'm were i should be +/-14.5." Those three statements coupled with you seem to be able to start without issue all in the same sentence is a head scratcher for sure.
A really good old-school test is just start the bike at night, wait for it to warm up a little. Point the headlights at a wall and gun the engine. There may be a very slight fluctuation in the brightness, but really shouldn't be much at all if any.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | did the old school school test after a short ride in the evening. fluctuation in brightness was present. as i rev'd in N, brightness occured. I assume this means more than likely a poor battery? Or, does this mean a bad charging system. By the way, the Fuel guage finally unstuck from the full indication and dropped to normal and appears to be working just fine. Now, guess I change batteries and see what happenes from there. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | From my own observation, Normally any vehicle at idle, with headlights on, will be drawing more power than the alternator will put out at IDLE. When revved just a little bit, just a couple of hundred will spin the alternatior fast enough to notice a fluctuation. Small fluctuation okay, large fluctuation, probably not so good.
A bad or malfunctioning battery, can start your vehicle many times, first time on the hit of starter button. But a bad cell, in the battery, will put a drain on your electrical system, causing said type issues. I have had a battery turn car over and start, kill it, turn key over no sound, turn key off, turn key on and it crank like nothing was wrong. Replace battery, pollo happy once again, no problem.
Normally, if you can go down the road you should be able to remove the battery and the bike still run off of the alternator. Charging system good. If going down the road and lights getting dimmer, machine losing power, bike is then running on battery alone. Charging system bad.
Surely you have another battery or a buddy has one you can test with to eliminate the battery problem. Or, you could take it to one of the parts houses where they can test the battery and put a load on it to see if it will keep up with BUCNAKD. Most parts houses have a machine that can also check your charging system.
Does the machine idle fine? or high enough? or the brain worky? Hey if all else fails we give the guy in charge a call to see what he recommends, I still have his number. He said he was in charge of all the electronics on the bike. We shall see. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | I agree with Pollo, get the battery out and have it tested at the parts store down the street, I believe most auto parts stores can do this, for free. When I picked up my bike at the dealer the battery was dead, they charged it for three hours before I left with it, but wouldn't start the bike three days later. I put it on the trickle charge for 24 hours and has not caused any issues since. Going down the road it is up around 14 volts, idle is at least 12.5 to just over 13 volts. One other area you might was to look at is the tightness of the cables to the battery, I know that on Victory motorcycles you can't have a loose cable, had that issue on my Kingpin. Good luck. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Also agree with VisionTex, check cables remove clean, reinstall. Had that problem also, loose cable erratic starting. Might even try disconnecting the battery and let the whole system reset? Don't forget it is just a small computer. Might clear a few problems or create some? Good luck and don't forget to stick your finger in the light socket to make sure electricity works. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | I stuck something in the light socket...I farted a lightning bolt. Warning, don't ever stick body parts in the outlets! Thanks Pollo, I thought your were helping me out. I didn't shoot lightning bolts the second time. Now my wife took my hammer, and put a pad lock on my belt so I wouldn't blow another fuse in the house or continue complain of testicular pain. Yes, I have to wear the hockey helmet around the house again, but she does let me lick the windows now! What a woman! I come off helmet restriction next week! Man, that out let in the garage is my bitch! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | BUCKEYE, you and I are in BIIIG trouble if our wives get mad and decide to get even. |
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Fountain Inn, SC United States | Most mech shops have a "load tester" which will show battery health under load conditions. Might be worth taking the battery to them. Most will do it for free. just another 2ยข |
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Cruiser
Posts: 129
Coastal , NJ | FYI,
Not sure if you remembered my post. My fuel gauge stuck as well. For one tankful of gas. Without touching the float , it fixed itself. My Dealer (Zack's VTWIN) said he has seen this a few times on brand new bikes.....(not brand specific).
It's been fine ever since. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | yeah, my fuel gauge is normal now. wonder if i filled to much? I thought since I'm at 3,800ft and filled up, then went down to sea level that was the issue. If I ever find out what the culprit is, I will post.
CJnoho, yeah, she's got the drop on me. She's seen me at my worst...low crawling thru the yard drunk, half nakid, yelling "in coming".
I'm thinking I need to go for another long ride soon. It takes me about 3 hours (traffic permitting) to get over there. I will give you a shout when I come out again. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Sounds good. Next time your out this way let me know. Going on vacation last week of Jan. rest of the weekends are open. Glad the holidays are over. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 904
29 Palms California | preach on my brother, preach on. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2026
Brighton, TN | Just wondering if you happen to get the stalling fixed. Or voltage fluctuation. Mine rarely goes below 14, maybe down to 13 at idle, but normally no lower. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1350
| My '03 had a stalling problem long ago. It started out stalling for no reason. Then I noticed it stalling on bumps in the road. The mech took it out and could get it to stall on hard throttle. Him and Victory went at it for 3 days. I stopped to see him and we were talking and he was upset. Understandable cause he is a good mech and does nice work. As we talked he reached down and grabbed the battery cable and it snapped in his hand. It appears that the cable was bad and had a crack in it under the two insulations. As time went by the crack got worse. He put a new cable on and that is the only trouble I had with my '03. Guess the Chinaman that makes 10,000 cables a day for 3 bowls of rice got one bad?
Just something to look into.
My '99 had running problems way back when and all it turned out to be was a loose battery cable. I check my cables every time I play around with the bike now.
Bought a brand new fuel sending unit for my '60 Ranchero. It was made in China? They made it upside down.  Someday I will replace it when I tank the tank out again. At empty I have about a half tank so not so bad. |
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ELECTRICAL ISSUES
