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Cruiser
Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas | (All information below is taken from the Vision Wiring Diagram, page 510, included in the service manual which can be linked from this site.) What it does have is a horn enable relay which keeps the horn from sounding when the ignition switch is in the OFF position (It also has another function, see below). The horn itself is controlled directly by the horn switch on the handlebars. What this means is that if you hook up your high power horn directly in place of the OEM horn, it will chew up your horn switch contacts like my granddaughter going through a cookie. For those who care, the logic follows.
Starting at the horn relay in the bottom center of the diagram, there is a 310 series relay with normally open contacts. That means no power can flow through the relay until it is activated. The activating coil has two wires. The black (pin 85) connects to ground and the pink (pin 86) connects to the ignition switch. Therefore the coil receives power when the switch is ON. That pulls the relay contacts shut, closing the connection between pins 30 and 87. The grey wire (pin 30) connects to a 20 Amp fuse which is connected directly to the battery. When the relay is activated, the closed contacts apply the power from the fuse to the grey/pink wire (pin 87).
The grey/pink wire then goes up to a junction, turns left and goes through a connector to the horn switch. When this switch is closed, power is applied to the horn (left center) via the grey wire. The other side of the horn is always connected to ground through a black wire, so now the horn will sound. In short, the switch controls the horn directly and the "horn relay" only keeps it off when the ignition is off.
The horn switch can be used to control another relay to safely power a high power horn, such as the Stebel.
Interesting point – if you follow the grey/pink wire up from that junction where it goes to the horn button, it goes up and over to the two powerlets in the top center of the page. Thus, the horn relay turns off the auxiliary powerlets when the ignition is off. These are the two optional powerlets which can be mounted on the center console. There are two connectors under the center console, which conveniently accept ¼"' flag terminals making this a handy place to draw power for accessories (such as the horn relay I just added for the Stebel).
I posted this here because I have seen conflicting information in other posts. This will also be posted in the Tech section for future reference.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 935
Rockford, IL | You say that the horn switch can be used to control a relay for a high power horn. Is there any possiblity of you taking this to the next step and putting together a "how to" project on how to correctly wire up a high power horn? Snap a few pictures, type a little text and help out your fellow Vision owners  |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 725
Reno County, KS | This is evidently a circuit protective isolation relay and I don't see any other function than that on the schematic. In addition to the horn, power to the powerlet harnesses and lighted badging is tapped from this loop once the ignition switch is on and the N.O. contacts close. This isn't simply used to make sure the horn won't sound when the ignition switch is off. They could have just wired the horn power directly to the ignition contact supplying coil voltage to the relay and gotten the exact same effect if that was the case. Also, this is a N.O. 303 series relay (not a 310). I did a quick search for a 310 spec sheet and found a bunch of industrial timing relays. LOL If I were installing this horn on my bike, I would not substitute the OEM horn relay for another non-OEM relay. I would run the new relay included with the Stebel horn in series with the old relay. I would then run a dedicated (and fused) power lead directly from the battery to the new relay contacts powering the horn. This may be what you are doing but I had a hard time following the post. Said configuration might cause a very slight lag (probably won't even be decernable to the driver since were talking high fractions of a second) as an additional set contacts will have to make before the horn is powered but it will keep the protection in place for the rest of the loop. Either way I am VERY interested in how this horn performs and look forward to hearing back on the set up. Having a LOUD horn on the interstate would be nice. It's much safer than having to kick a truck's fender when the driver decides to take your lane without looking! Do you happen to have a video recorder to do a before/after vid on youtube or similar? Here is a spec sheet for the OEM relay: http://www.therelaycompany.com/datafiles/303.pdf
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Iron Butt
Posts: 935
Rockford, IL |
lol......are BOTH of you two some type of electrical engineers????
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Cruiser
Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas | Guilty on the engineer charge, Lotza - Biz-jet electronics here in the Air Capital. Thanks for the comments Will. I'm working on the horn write-up now and I'll try to be a little clearer. I've got a couple of pics also. The enable relays running off of the power switch is standard practice - it keeps the switch from having to pull a lot of current if something is left on. You're right about the "circuit protective isolation relay", but we just call 'em enable relays at my shop. The lights and ignition are the same deal - enable relays to us. Burns the ignition switch out pretty fast to switch more than a couple of amps directly, and they are EXPENSIVE (been there). All the relays along the bottom of the wiring diagram are enable relays, and all together they control a lot of power. You're right - that is a 303 relay (so much for writing from memory.)
I did use the Stebel relay, driven off the OEM horn wiring. The extra delay is only a split second, BUT the Stebel is an air horn with a compressor built in. It takes a noticeable time to sound but is definitely loud. The delay kind of surprised me until I thought of it being an air horn. As for power, I was going the separate power circuit route until I found the two optional Powerlet connectors under the console. You can plug a standard 1/4" flag terminal in to the power side and draw power from there - and it's already fused and protected by the horn fuse and relay! I drove the Stebel relay off the OEM horn connector - I drilled it out off the horn and soldered a couple of wires to it, then hooked it back up. That kept me from having to hack the wiring on the bike.
There are already several videos of the Stebel on Youtube. Just search for Stebel. All said, I like it and think it was worth the money and time. Quick note - O'Reilly's Auto Parts carries the Stebel under their brand, but you can see the Stebel Nautilis name through the plastic wrap. A few bucks more but I got it and installed it the same day. |
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Vision Does Not Have a Horn Relay
