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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I rhink they may have rerouted/ moved wiring harness small items to make it user friendly. The 2008 might be a smidge different
I did it the hard way the first time. Then the second time i did it the easy way above. Congrats to those who can get it done easily. You should make some money or food. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 96
Princeton, IL | I want to thank everyone who posted here with your words of wisdom on completing this task. The pictures Song Fan provided at the first post were particularly helpful as I had never seen the back of the lights and removing the retaining clip would have been much harder with out the photos. I was able to complete the task in about 45 minutes, that included re-reading some of the advice here on the site. Without the advice it would have been a very long and probably futile task. I will echo the sentiments of one person (sorry i forgot who) who posted here, I used plenty of dielectric grease and everything went back together again easy and will hopefully come apart easier in the future. Again, thank to everyone who takes the time to post these articles, they are invaluable!
Edited by SammyJ 2012-10-21 11:32 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | cw1115 - 2012-08-21 6:50 PM I got mine out easy. Bulb was good, but one of the sockets was melted into a blob. I was able to replace that easy. I could not for the life of me get the retainer back on. After an hour and injured hand I pulled the body work. :-/ Hmm... I'm seeing a pattern here. I tried changing mine a few weeks ago. The bulb didn't want to come out of the socket. When I finally got it out, I found that my socket had melted and fused to the bulb, and it left one of the prongs from the bulb in the socket when I got it out. Couldn't put another bulb in that socket, so I took a four-hour ride to my dealer so the wrench could solder another socket into place. Ugh. Oh well - it gave me an excuse to let him replace the bulb too! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 103
Duanesburg N.Y. | I'm dreading to have to do mine
Eric |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Eric - 2012-10-22 5:12 PM
I'm dreading to have to do mine
Eric
Ya, it sucks having to change the bulbs. Been there, done that. Hate it. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| I was looking and if you could un bolt one running light it would be very easy. There are 4 bolts for the running light. One on each end and the other 2 are below housing. Not sure how you would get at those two. Or how you would get bolts back in on the bottom.
Once the running light out of the way 4 bolts for the headlight and you can get at those and just slide the hole housing out to one side.
Now this is what I see haven't tried it yet. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | Same issue last year Lone Ranger. Had a bulb out and found a melted socket. I was able to replace it without taking the bike apart, but I tried to replace the bulb while I was at it and could not get the #$#%^ retaining wire back on. Ended up taking the bodywork off to get the bulb in. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 73
Sullivan, IN United States | OH Mister Radioteacher. Please can you make a video of changing out the front bulbs. I have seen some of your other work and it is very helpful. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | My Vision is brand new (less than 6 weeks old). Sometime over the winter, I might take a few minutes and remove the plugs and add some dielectric grease. I'm sure I'll have to change bulbs eventually so this might be a good way of making it easier when I have to. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Monkeyman - 2012-10-26 1:06 PM
My Vision is brand new (less than 6 weeks old). Sometime over the winter, I might take a few minutes and remove the plugs and add some dielectric grease. I'm sure I'll have to change bulbs eventually so this might be a good way of making it easier when I have to.
1. It is not going to take you a few minutes (the first time)
2. Have replacement bulbs on hand; it's easy to break the bulb while trying to unplug the connector from it
3. Be prepared to cuss A LOT and accept skinned knuckles and fingers. You will be putting your fingers into Hell's teethy mouth itself.
Edited by willtill 2012-10-26 1:48 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | I wasn't planning on replacing the bulbs this winter, just removing the plugs and filling them with grease. I would assume, being a new bike, things haven't frozen up yet. I was hoping to keep that from happening in the future. I'm not worried about skinned knuckles. I'll be working in my unheated garage so my hands will be so cold, I won't notice any blood until they warm up later.  |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Monkeyman - 2012-10-26 2:51 PM
I wasn't planning on replacing the bulbs this winter, just removing the plugs and filling them with grease. I would assume, being a new bike, things haven't frozen up yet. I was hoping to keep that from happening in the future. I'm not worried about skinned knuckles. I'll be working in my unheated garage so my hands will be so cold, I won't notice any blood until they warm up later.
My bike 2011 was new when I decided to install Head Light Modulators in it. Those connectors are on there just as tight as they would be 2 years down the road. Don't let the "newness" fool you. Be prepared to go to battle and slug it out with those two connectors. And purchase at least one replacement bulb beforehand.
You will see. Guaranteed.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | In that case, I'll just wait until I burn up a bulb. No sense tackling it twice for no reason. |
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Tourer
Posts: 562
SC, Bluffton | I still remember one of the first posts years ago about this. He said just set the bike on fire. LOL
I will problably proceed with taking the front end apart. Videos sometime, anyone, please. (o: |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | I had a bulb burn out last week at 39K miles. I had the headlight out once before so I knew it was going to take some time. I also searched Vision-Riders for some tricks. I changed it Saturday in 2.5 hours. It was not real difficult, just time consuming. I found a few tricks of my own that will help speed up the process next time.
I only removed one body part to get the headlight out...the aluminum windshield cowling. I took the screws out of the dash cover (under the windshield) to push it up out of the way, but I did not remove it. I did not remove fairings, aluminum legs, turn signals, etc. Did not even remove the air cleaner. The only difficult part was accessing the two screws that hold the plastic bodywork to the headlight. More on this later.
There are only 4 screws that hold the headlight to the frame. There are two on top that are out in the open and two on the bottom that are behind the headlight, but easy to get to. These 4 screws are not the problem. There are two screws that attach the aluminum fairing to the headlight too. These are out in the open under the headlight and are not a problem either.
The problem screws are two that are on a horizontal axis with the bulbs. They are on each side of the headlight and have a black 4mm socket button head. They are behind the headlight and hard to see and reach. Get these two screws out and everything else is somewhat easy. See the photo below which shows the location of these screws. This is the trick I found: I used a 4mm hex key socket on a racket. I started with a regular allen wrench, but that was difficult. It took me a few minutes to find my hex key sockets because I rarely use them. I finally found them and the screws were much easier to remove. It took about a half an hour to remove these two screws. Next time will be much easier because I know to go right for the racket and hex key socket.
Once I had these screws out, the plastic fairing and aluminum legs flexed enough to work the headlight out. You can see in the photo below that all body pieces are still in place along with the turn signals. The headlight did not just fall out. I had to work it out, but it did come out without dismantling the bike.
The bulbs were very easy to replace once I had the headlight out. Like others, I could not get the electrical connector off when the headlight was still in the bike. Pulling on the connector was counter acted by the spring clip holding the bulb in. The spring acted as a shock absorber preventing me from yanking the connector off. The trick I found here is to remove the bulb from the headlight assembly before trying to remove the connector. After I got the bulb out of the headlight I grabbed it with one hand and the connector with the other. They slid apart with ease.
Getting the headlight back in took a few minutes, but it was not real difficult. Some wiggling and flexing of the bodywork and it finally popped into place.
Installing the two problem screws was as difficult as removing them. However, once I got them in everything else went together quickly.
So, not as much stuff had to be removed as I initially thought. It just takes patience, a bit of time, and a 4mm hex key socket.
.
Edited by victoryvisiontour 2012-11-04 12:08 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Bravo! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| That's great information! Perfect pictures to boot.
Thanks,
Marc |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | This should be a "sticky" I may try it next time. Thanks for posting this. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | victoryvisiontour,
Wow!!! You did it!!! Great information. Please post in the Tech Reference forum!!!
Now that is a video I need to make!
Ride Safe |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | While I was at it I relocated my temperature sensor as described in this thread:
http://www.Vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=8893&pos...
Now my temperature reading is much more accurate. After parked in the sun, the reading comes down to actual temp in seconds when I start moving. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | I'll come down there this summer and trade you a drink of your choice for help moving mine. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 231
Desert Hot Springs (Palm Springs area), CA | Wow... Fantastic post! I wonder what would be compromised IF you did not put the problem screws back in? Would it be OK without those screws? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | JS5Owner - 2012-11-05 1:23 PM
Wow... Fantastic post! I wonder what would be compromised IF you did not put the problem screws back in? Would it be OK without those screws?
The headlight would be fine because it is mounted to the frame by 4 other screws. The "problem screws" only provide a place for the painted fairing under the turnsignal to mount. Seems like Victory could have made them accessable from the outside. Then cover the holes like the backup sensors on rear car bumpers. Without the screws the fairing/turnsignal assembly may not be solid. Not sure though. Makes me wish I would have spent some time to see what it would be like without those terrible two screws. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | I wonder if the top screws could be replaced with a clip like a carabiner. Or a clip like the one on the end of wallet chains?
Ride Safe |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Thanks, to all those who have gone on before me and found an easier way. I got the opportunity to dismantle the beast again. I'm down to 3 hours with chatting involved and some working with two people.
What has been the mileage / timeframe for the PIAA lights? Mine went again at 9000 miles and 6 months. DANG IT! That was with the PIAA Anti-Freaking-Vibration ones at almost $80 for a dual set.
I found the next set of lights at a HD store of all places. They are Extreme Xenon Super White H4 60/55 watt Super Spots. Distributed by WixTech, appears to be made by Sylvania and if that is the case I probably won't be happy with them. They say they are LIFETIME WARRANTY. We shall see, but if they are going to burn out every 10k or so, I'm gonna get good at disassembling this bike.
Anybody have experience with the company or who makes it for them? |
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Have you replaced your own Vision headlamps?
