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Good speaker upgrade option:
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charbin
Posted 2009-08-27 10:50 PM (#42629 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: RE: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 88
Lavon, TX

The Alpine SPS-500 speakers are a drop-in replacement, reusing the OEM hex bolts and fitting within the OEM rubber speaker surrounds.

However, installation of ANY speaker requires one to remove the dash bezel, rear view mirror, and speaker grill plate (see pic below) - in order to gain access to the speaker itself.



Edited by charbin 2009-08-27 10:55 PM




(speaker.JPG)



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Attachments speaker.JPG (6KB - 17 downloads)
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Prostreet1
Posted 2009-08-28 5:52 AM (#42635 - in reply to #42629)
Subject: RE: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
charbin - 2009-08-27 10:50 PM

The Alpine SPS-500 speakers are a drop-in replacement, reusing the OEM hex bolts and fitting within the OEM rubber speaker surrounds.

However, installation of ANY speaker requires one to remove the dash bezel, rear view mirror, and speaker grill plate (see pic below) - in order to gain access to the speaker itself.



Can someone tell me what you are doing to waterproof these speakers because they do not appear to be weather resistant.....at least from the manufacturers specifacations they don't??
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charbin
Posted 2009-08-28 6:18 AM (#42638 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: RE: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 88
Lavon, TX

There is nothing needed for waterproofing; as I stated earlier, they are made with silicone and polypropoline cones - thus, they can be considered mostly "marine grade" (their grills don't have the UV resistance, nor are their bodies surrounded by plastic covers to protect from harsh chemicals/salt spray). 

 Also, being coaxial, they already have a directional 3/4" tweeter sitting over the woofer - so there is no need to have to separately add a set of tweeters.

5.25" 2-way speakers (pair)
Polypropylene-mica woofer cone
Air-injected rubber surround
3/4" pivoting silk dome tweeter
Power range: 2-55 watts RMS (170 watts peak power)
Frequency response: 80-22,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Top-mount depth: 2"

I'm in no way affiliated with Alpine - just a happy customer. 

 





(speaker-face.jpg)



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Attachments speaker-face.jpg (18KB - 14 downloads)
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Prostreet1
Posted 2009-08-28 6:25 AM (#42640 - in reply to #42638)
Subject: RE: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
charbin - 2009-08-28 6:18 AM

There is nothing needed for waterproofing; as I stated earlier, they are made with silicone and polypropoline cones - thus, they can be considered mostly "marine grade" (their grills don't have the UV resistance, nor are their bodies surrounded by plastic covers to protect from harsh chemicals/salt spray). 

 Also, being coaxial, they already have a directional 3/4" tweeter sitting over the woofer - so there is no need to have to separately add a set of tweeters.

5.25" 2-way speakers (pair)
Polypropylene-mica woofer cone
Air-injected rubber surround
3/4" pivoting silk dome tweeter
Power range: 2-55 watts RMS (170 watts peak power)
Frequency response: 80-22,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Top-mount depth: 2"

I'm in no way affiliated with Alpine - just a happy customer. 

 



Thanks charbin....guess I know what my next upgrade will be...will these work for the rears as well??
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charbin
Posted 2009-08-28 6:33 AM (#42642 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 88
Lavon, TX
Yep - same speaker size used for both front and rear. Presently, I've only replaced the front - I figured, at only $60 w/free shipping from X-Sounds on e-Bay, I would go ahead and take the risk for one set. Wow, was I surprised at the difference from OEM in magnet size, the look of the them, and their excellent sound quality and the clarity of the treble - though I do wish they were louder when traveling at 80mph w/S1L1 pipes. I've had them for a couple of months now, and am now ready to order another set for the rear. My buddy listened to them, and he ordered all four speakers for his Vision.

Now if I could only find a 4 channel hawg-wired type of class-T low-power digital marine-grade amp to drive my system - for less than a grand...
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Prostreet1
Posted 2009-08-28 6:39 AM (#42644 - in reply to #42642)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
charbin - 2009-08-28 6:33 AM

Yep - same speaker size used for both front and rear. Presently, I've only replaced the front - I figured, at only $60 w/free shipping from X-Sounds on e-Bay, I would go ahead and take the risk for one set. Wow, was I surprised at the difference from OEM in magnet size, the look of the them, and their excellent sound quality and the clarity of the treble - though I do wish they were louder when traveling at 80mph w/S1L1 pipes. I've had them for a couple of months now, and am now ready to order another set for the rear. My buddy listened to them, and he ordered all four speakers for his Vision.

Now if I could only find a 4 channel hawg-wired type of class-T low-power digital marine-grade amp to drive my system - for less than a grand...


...sweet thanks again...so much to buy, so little money!....
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gcarroll70
Posted 2010-01-25 10:28 PM (#52076 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 28
Reston, Virginia
I purchased the J&M front fairing speaker upgrade and the result is a vast improvement in sound quality. Cost about $85, easy installation, and appear to be much more weather resistant, no visible wires and different, more durable materials. The great thing is no distortion even at the highest volume.
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airguy
Posted 2010-01-25 10:45 PM (#52078 - in reply to #52076)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 175
Hinton, Iowa
How hard is it to dismantle the dash and install new speakers?

Ride Safe, Mike
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tralphaz
Posted 2010-01-26 2:23 AM (#52081 - in reply to #42638)
Subject: RE: Good speaker upgrade option:


Tourer

Posts: 353
charbin - 2009-08-28 3:18 AM

There is nothing needed for waterproofing; as I stated earlier, they are made with silicone and polypropoline cones - thus, they?can be?considered mostly "marine grade" (their grills don't have the?UV resistance, nor are their bodies?surrounded by plastic covers to protect from harsh chemicals/salt spray).?

?Also, being coaxial, they already have a directional 3/4" tweeter sitting over the woofer - so there is no need to have to separately add a set of tweeters.

5.25" 2-way speakers (pair)
Polypropylene-mica woofer cone
Air-injected rubber surround
3/4" pivoting silk dome tweeter
Power range: 2-55 watts RMS (170 watts peak power)
Frequency response: 80-22,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Top-mount depth: 2"

I'm in no way affiliated with Alpine - just a happy customer.?

?



Another member purchased a set of Infinity Reference 5022i which I've been considering for my Vision.
Specs appear to be a little better matched for the Vision sound system.

2 ohm
2-45 watts RMS
67Hz - 21kHz Frequency response.
Sensitivity: 92db
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bigwill5150
Posted 2010-01-26 6:32 AM (#52083 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 725
Reno County, KS
DO NOT DO THIS!!! THESE ARE NOT DIRECT REPLACEMENT SPEAKERS. JUST BECAUSE THEY PHYSICALLY FIT DOES NOT MAKE THEM DIRECT REPLACEMENTS. YOU WILL BLOW THE OUTPUTS ON YOUR RADIO EVENTUALLY. THESE ARE 4 OHM CAR SPEAKERS. THE MOTORCYCLE USES A 2 OHM LOAD SPEAKER. THAT IS WHY YOU ARE NOT GETTING AS MUCH VOLUME THROUGH THE SPEAKERS AS THE OEM'S. THE RADIO IS HAVING TO PUSH THROUGH TWICE THE LOAD IT WAS DESIGNED FOR. YES I'M TYPING IN CAPS TO MAKE A POINT. DO NOT DO THIS. DO A FORUM SEARCH AND SEE THE INFO THAT'S BEEN POSTED REGARDING CORRECT SPEAKER IMPEDENCE.

Edited by bigwill5150 2010-01-26 6:33 AM
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TimS
Posted 2010-01-26 10:33 AM (#52095 - in reply to #52083)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

BigWill5150,

I think you may have your numbers backwards.  The lower the impendence of the speaker, the more current it pulls through the amp, thus causing it to get hotter and possibly burning it out.  Being such, a 4Ohm speaker draws less current than a 2Ohm speaker does at the same volume setting (not measured SPL).  If an amp can handle a 2Ohm load, it can handle a 4Ohm or 8Ohm load.

If you notice, most amps are rated at 8Ohms, fewer have ratings for (8 and 4), fewer still for (8, 4 and 2) and very few are stable down to a 1Ohm load (or less).  Also, the beefier the amp (without marketing hype), will state doubling of power with each halfing of the impendence (e.g. 350wpc/8Ohms, 700wpc/4Ohms, 1,400wpc/2Ohms - e.g. Mark Levinson #336), but most amps are not built this well and will not double its output with each respective halving.

Also, I believe the stock Victory Vision speakers are in the neighborhood of 4Ohms, not 2 Ohms.  When I measured mine before upgrading the stereo, they were measuring @ 3.5Ohms.

Tim

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Prostreet1
Posted 2010-01-26 11:37 AM (#52097 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: RE: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
Thanks TimS.....good stuff.
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bigwill5150
Posted 2010-01-26 6:31 PM (#52119 - in reply to #52095)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 725
Reno County, KS
TimS - 2010-01-26 9:33 AM

BigWill5150,

I think you may have your numbers backwards.? The lower the impendence of the speaker, the more current it pulls through the amp, thus causing it to get hotter and possibly burning it out.? Being such, a 4Ohm speaker draws less current than a 2Ohm speaker does at the same volume setting (not measured SPL).? If an amp can handle a 2Ohm load, it can handle a 4Ohm or 8Ohm load.

If you notice, most amps are rated at 8Ohms, fewer have ratings for (8 and 4), fewer still for (8, 4 and 2) and very few are stable down to a 1Ohm load (or less).? Also, the beefier the amp (without marketing hype), will state doubling of power with each halfing of the impendence (e.g. 350wpc/8Ohms, 700wpc/4Ohms, 1,400wpc/2Ohms - e.g. Mark Levinson #336), but most amps are not built this well and will not double its output with each respective halving.

Also, I believe the stock Victory Vision speakers are in the neighborhood of 4Ohms, not 2 Ohms.? When I measured mine before upgrading the stereo, they were?measuring @ 3.5Ohms.

Tim


No, what I'm talking about is overdriving the amp by turning it up to run speakers that are running higher impedence. I'm aware that running a lower voicecoil load than what the amplifier is rated for will cause the amplifier to heat up. Most of the blown amplifiers I've rebuilt were because they ran a 2 Ohm or less configuration on a 4 Ohm rated auto amp that was also pegged out on gain to get every dB worth until the bitter end. It flat burns them up and in a hurry. I'm talking about the other side of the equation of impedence matching. Using the simplified Ohms law to figure out how much extra power is needed to run a 4 ohm speaker vs. a 2 ohm speaker you will see that it takes twice the power to deliver the same level of volume (not exactly proportional since were talking dB but that's a whole other arguement that I could'nt care less about). Now if this is done constantly because the radio has to be cranked up to be heard on the highway, you are creating another problem. The FETs are simply having too work harder than they are designed for. Do this for too long and they break down. The resistance reading I got with my Fluke was 2.7 Ohms through my stock Victory speakers and 2.6 Ohms through my J&M direct replacement speakers. I checked because I didn't want to create an expensive problem. J&M advertises 2 Ohm speakers as direct replacement matching for the Victory Vision. I would recommend against any 4 Ohm for this reason. Cost wise, I actually paid $80 for my matched J&M's vice whatever these guys are paying for their car speakers. I got mine through eBay so I don't know what they retail for but this doesn't seem to be saving anyone a great deal of cash. Think of me as being a dick for bringing all this up. I don't care. I've been called worse. I'm bowing out of this with a clear conscious though.
PS, I think our bikes got baptised by KevinX together in Elroy's garage. I think that was your Midnight Cherry next to my SSG Street but you were gone for another obligation.

Edited by bigwill5150 2010-01-26 6:41 PM
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farlz
Posted 2010-01-26 7:41 PM (#52122 - in reply to #52119)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 51
Okotoks, Alberta
So now to complicate this some more. I have installed some pioneer 3 way speakers (4 ohm) and have been using them since this fall. I have been contemplating installing an amplifier to increase the power(volume) to the speakers as they are rated at 200 watts. Is there an amp that I can get that will change the outgoing 2 ohms from the reciever to 4 ohms (with increased wattage)? Will this eliminate the suspected issue of causing damage the reciever??
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TimS
Posted 2010-01-27 4:57 PM (#52170 - in reply to #52119)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 810
bigwill5150 - 2010-01-26 3:31 PM TimS - 2010-01-26 9:33 AM

BigWill5150,

...?Being such, a 4Ohm speaker draws less current than a 2Ohm speaker does at the same volume setting (not measured SPL).? ...

No, what I'm talking about is overdriving the amp by turning it up to run speakers that are running higher impedence. I'm aware that running a lower voicecoil load than what the amplifier is rated for will cause the amplifier to heat up. Most of the blown amplifiers I've rebuilt were because they ran a 2 Ohm or less configuration on a 4 Ohm rated auto amp that was also pegged out on gain to get every dB worth until the bitter end. It flat burns them up and in a hurry. I'm talking about the other side of the equation of impedence matching. Using the simplified Ohms law to figure out how much extra power is needed to run a 4 ohm speaker vs. a 2 ohm speaker you will see that it takes twice the power to deliver the same level of volume (not exactly proportional since were talking dB but that's a whole other arguement that I could'nt care less about). Now if this is done constantly because the radio has to be cranked up to be heard on the highway, you are creating another problem. The FETs are simply having too work harder than they are designed for. Do this for too long and they break down. The resistance reading I got with my Fluke was 2.7 Ohms through my stock Victory speakers and 2.6 Ohms through my J&M direct replacement speakers. I checked because I didn't want to create an expensive problem. J&M advertises 2 Ohm speakers as direct replacement matching for the Victory Vision. I would recommend against any 4 Ohm for this reason. Cost wise, I actually paid $80 for my matched J&M's vice whatever these guys are paying for their car speakers. I got mine through eBay so I don't know what they retail for but this doesn't seem to be saving anyone a great deal of cash. Think of me as being a dick for bringing all this up. I don't care. I've been called worse. I'm bowing out of this with a clear conscious though. PS, I think our bikes got baptised by KevinX together in Elroy's garage. I think that was your Midnight Cherry next to my SSG Street but you were gone for another obligation.


BigWill5150,

Please note that I mentioned "at the same volume setting".? I was not advocating running an amp at 75-100%.? I agree that running any amp at 75-100% all of the time (or even part of the time) will damage it (and the speakers) quicker (as well as driving it into clipping).? Quicker still if you use a lower resistence speaker because you will be making it work more than 100% of its original intended output.? I never run my amps more than 50%, if I do, I believe I need a larger amp.?

One thing that was not mentioned so far is the efficiency of a speaker which also enters into this equation.? I used to have 8-Ohm Klipsch speakers that were 104dB efficient and could probably be?driven from a sony walkman due to their efficiency, but you could not fit the speakers on a motorcycle?unless you had?side car and trailer.

I have not found any specs on the RadioSound Vision radio other than 20wpc so I can not absolutely state that the radio is stable at 2, 4, 8 or other Ohm rating other than measuring the OEM speakers that came off of it and assume they did the appropriate pairing.

I guess I will have to get my $500 Fluke 189 recalibrated since our OEM speaker measurements differ.

Tim

?

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TimS
Posted 2010-01-27 5:07 PM (#52171 - in reply to #52122)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

farlz - 2010-01-26 4:41 PM ... Is there an amp that I can get that will change the outgoing 2 ohms from the reciever to 4 ohms (with increased wattage)? Will this eliminate the suspected issue of causing damage the reciever??

If you are not driving your 4Ohm speakers any higher (volume setting, NOT Sound Pressure Level (SPL)) than your stock speakers, you should be fine.  I tried various automotive speakers on my Vision and found them to require a higher volume setting than stock and then returned them because of it.  The J&M replacement speakers give you more SPL at the same volume setting so you should not be driving your amp harder (assuming they are the same resistence as the OEM speakers).

What is the highest Volume Setting that your run at on your Vision?

What were you running before and after the speaker swap-out?

When you put an amp between the radio and the speakers, the radio no longer sees the speakers as a load.  It sees the amp (and interface to the amp) as the load.  The Vision's radio does not have pre-amp outputs, thus you have to use the high-powered speaker outputs of the radio and use a step-down transformer to provide line-level inputs into the amp.  If the amp accepts high powered inputs, then it already has the step-down transformers included in the amp.  If your amp was stable enough, you could put a 16Ohm or a 0.1 Ohm speaker on the amp and the radio would never know the difference (but the amp and charging system would).

HTH,

Tim



Edited by TimS 2010-01-27 5:29 PM
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bigwill5150
Posted 2010-01-27 5:42 PM (#52172 - in reply to #52119)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 725
Reno County, KS
bigwill5150 - 2010-01-26
Think of me as being a dick for bringing all this up. I don't care. I've been called worse. I'm bowing out of this with a clear conscious though.

I'm not drinking the Kool-aide. Happy riding.
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Prostreet1
Posted 2010-01-27 7:10 PM (#52188 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
Ok...now that you guys have totally lost me....Tim..bigwill....getting back to the start of this thread....do you feel this is a good upgrade with the Alpine SPS 500's??....I appreciate the both of you two increasing my understanding of this topic.... :0)

Coop
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TimS
Posted 2010-01-28 12:48 AM (#52201 - in reply to #52188)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

Prostreet1 - 2010-01-27 4:10 PM Ok...now that you guys have totally lost me....Tim..bigwill....getting back to the start of this thread....do you feel this is a good upgrade with the Alpine SPS 500's??....I appreciate the both of you two increasing my understanding of this topic.... :0) Coop

This speaker would not be my first choice for the Vision.  It's sensitivity rating is 87dB which is not very efficient.  Speakers are normally rated by measuring at a distance of 1 meter, on-axis using 1 watt of power.  This means this speaker will produce an SPL of 87dB when fed 1 watt measured at 1 meter.  [Off topic:  Some motorcycle horns are measured at a few inches, which make their "published efficiency rating" artificially higher than it would be measured at  the nominal 1 meter.  They are violating the normal measuring techniques to produce inflated marketing claims].

Since this speaker is not very efficient, you will need more power to get it to output the same SPL as the stock or J&M speaker.  This gets back to what BigWill5150 was stating.  You will end up turning up the amp higher to get the same SPL and wearing it out quicker.  It also goes back to what I stated earlier about trying various automotive speakers in the Vision at the same volume setting to see if it played louder (SPL) or not.  This is not a problem if you have a stable amp with lots of watts, but the Vision's radio only has 20 watts.

I am not so worried about the 4Ohms (especially since I do not have the radio manufacturer's published specs on the radio) as I am the efficiency rating.

The next part is going to involve a little math.  The main point to take away is that power/efficiency/hearing is an exponential relationship, not a linear one, thus you can run out of headroom really quickly if you are trying to drive inefficient speakers with a small amp.  When you run out of gas, you turn up the amp to compensate and in turn, burn it out.

To raise the volume by 3dB, you need to DOUBLE the power going into the speaker. Each 3dB gain then adds another power of 2.

Examples: 

A 90dB efficient speaker will play the same SPL with 1/2 the power of an 87dB efficient speaker (3dB or (1/(2^1))). 

A 93dB efficient speaker will play the same SPL with 1/4 the power of an 87dB efficient speaker (6dB or (1/(2^2))).

A 96dB efficient speaker will play the same SPL with 1/8 the power of an 87dB efficient speaker (9dB or (1/(2^3))).

As a rough general rule, human hearing needs @ a 10dB boost to be perceived as being twice as loud (SPL, not twice the power).  To raise the perception by a factor of 2, you need about 10X as much power (not 2X the power).  From the example above, you see (96dB - 87dB) = 9dB which equates to 8X the power or (2^3).

Vision Example:

Assuming the power meter on the Vision's radio is linear [1-30], you will need to have the volume level set to 24 on an 87dB efficient speaker to get the same volume level of a 96dB efficient speaker set to 3.  The 87dB efficient speaker would need a setting of 32 to match the SPL of the 96dB speaker at a setting of 4 [ 5:50, 6:48, 7:56, 8:64, 9:72, 10:80, ... ].  You are now out of luck with the 87db speaker because the Vision volume control only goes to 30 while the 96dB speaker is only using 2/15th of the amps capacity with plenty of headroom left.  Based on this example, which scenario is more desirable ???

With a less efficient speaker, you will be driving the amp harder to generate the same SPL (while also decreasing headroom) which will shorten the life of the amp over that of using a more efficient speaker.

I hope this helps explain why I would not use this speaker with the Vision's amp.  Go with the J&M replacement speakers which are more efficient requiring less power.

Sincerley,

Tim

 



Edited by TimS 2010-01-28 1:13 AM
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Prostreet1
Posted 2010-01-28 5:29 AM (#52206 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
Whew...thanks Tim...now that my head is spinning! ...guess I'll go with the J&M's..thanks for all the time and effort!
Coop

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Jedi Jeff
Posted 2010-01-28 7:22 AM (#52212 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Fountain Inn, SC United States
Tim, BigWill - as an old sound & recording engineer, I appreciate you venturing into the technical world of audio and trying to explain it for all to understand. Tim, your description and analogy were spot on. Makes you appreciate the effort that goes into designing matched audio systems.
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Lotzafun
Posted 2010-01-28 9:09 AM (#52215 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 935
Rockford, IL
Tim, Bigwill....and others-

I'd like your opinions

Assuming all costs and installation and listening levels and music tastes and such are all equal...

Are the J&M speakers the BEST alternative for the Vision?


And for those who wish to take it to the next level...what would be the BEST amp to install? And what would be the BEST speakers to install with this amp? Still assuming costs and installation and such as being equal.
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Prostreet1
Posted 2010-01-28 9:15 AM (#52216 - in reply to #52215)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Cruiser

Posts: 184
Allen Park, MI
Lotzafun - 2010-01-28 10:09 AM

Tim, Bigwill....and others-

I'd like your opinions

Assuming all costs and installation and listening levels and music tastes and such are all equal...

Are the J&M speakers the BEST alternative for the Vision?


And for those who wish to take it to the next level...what would be the BEST amp to install? And what would be the BEST speakers to install with this amp? Still assuming costs and installation and such as being equal.


Hey fun....check this out...little pricy

http://hawg-wired.com/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=82
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radioteacher
Posted 2010-01-28 10:16 AM (#52220 - in reply to #42388)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Visionary

Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX
bigwill5150 and TimS did a great job covering the subject. For a while there I thought I was on one of my Amateur Radio Fourm's.

73

de N5IUT

I meant to say, Ride Safe!
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TimS
Posted 2010-01-28 12:42 PM (#52226 - in reply to #52215)
Subject: Re: Good speaker upgrade option:


Iron Butt

Posts: 810

Lotzafun - 2010-01-28 6:09 AM Tim, Bigwill....and others- I'd like your opinions Assuming all costs and installation and listening levels and music tastes and such are all equal... Are the J&M speakers the BEST alternative for the Vision? And for those who wish to take it to the next level...what would be the BEST amp to install? And what would be the BEST speakers to install with this amp? Still assuming costs and installation and such as being equal.

The J&M's are the best replacements that I am aware of to date.  Other speakers may sound a little wamer, but you will run into issues outlined in my previous post if they are less efficient.

As for amps, the Vision's charging system needs to be larger than what it currently is.  They should have released the 65amp stator that they advertised in their 2008 and 2009 accessory catelog. Victory would sell a bunch of them to the stereo guys. 

Since the Vision's charging system is marginal with all of the available accesories, you will need a very efficient amp which points you at digital amps (Class T, Class D, etc., not a Class A or Class A/B).  They are generally 80-90% efficient versus 10-20% efficient which is easier on the charging system.  Even with the more efficient amps, you can still overrun the Vision's charging system, so BEWARE, I speak from personal experience with my 2008 Vision. 

Size on the Vision is also a consideration for both speakers and amp placement.  The HD batwing fairings have plenty of room to locate an amp and even larger (diameter & deeper) 6.5" speakers.  Unfortunately, the Vision's fairing will not accomodate 6.5" speakers and the front enclosures limit depth, which vastly limits your speaker choices.  The Vision's fairing also does not have room for an amp.

With the previous restrictions on the Vision, you have to be very selective about what you choose and where you install it.  There will be trade offs.  Do I take up storage space?  Do I run the amp without heated accessories and visa versa, etc.

To date, I can not give a firm recommendation for an amp system that is trade-off free on the Vision until they come out with a stronger stator.  It would also be great if their next fairing design would accomodate 6.5" speakers and add pre-amp outs on the radio.

HTH,

Tim



Edited by TimS 2010-01-28 12:56 PM
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