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Cruiser
Posts: 209
| how about some suggestions on buying brake pads and replacing them. I.m at 33k, don't know if their orgininal or not. and maybe I should change fluid? |
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | I just replaced with original from dealership. Probably about 30k if I recall correctly.
And yes, change the fluid.
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | I was down to metal at 25K on my 2008. I almost ruined the rotors. I needed pads that day and bought Nissan pads for a Goldwing at the Honda dealer. Much better stopping power than the stock Vic pads. I'm going with EBC pads next go round. The Honda guy stated they are even better than the Nissan. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1350
| I have the EBC brand about $50 from my dealer and like them. Switch cause the OEMs would squeal. I changed front and rears at the same time. Real easy to do. The toughest part was cleaning the rears even with brake cleaner spray. Would have been easier if it was on a lift I am sure.
Everyone should check their brakes on a regular schedule. Everyone uses their brakes differently so you can't go by mileage. We can never tell when something got caught in them and caused a gouge. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Last June, I bought complete front and rear brake pads (2 sets front, 1 set rear) from D2Moto for a grand total of $34, including shipping! (with a 5$ off coupon code). Even if I only get 20k miles out of them, can't beat the value...
http://www.d2moto.com/casearch.aspx?searchterm=Victory+Vision+brake...
Ah hell, now that I'm thinking about it, I went ahead and just ordered another complete set (2 front, 1 rear) from them. Used coupon code D2M2008 to get 15% for a total of $31.23 for Sintered HH pads plus $5.99 shipping. Not sure where to find a better deal than that.
Edited by Turk 2013-04-02 10:54 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | Turk, how are they compaired to OEM? Riding 2 up I feel the OEM brakes start to fade in a quick stop from highway speed. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | From what I understand; OEM organic pads will transfer their heat to the rotor. EBC scintered pads transfer their heat to the caliber; which results in less "brake fade". |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| cw1115 - 2013-04-02 11:07 AM
Turk, how are they compaired to OEM? Riding 2 up I feel the OEM brakes start to fade in a quick stop from highway speed.
The set I have on now are the Kevlar Carbon, and while they do require more effort than the sintered HH pads do to stop, they are much less abrasive/destructive to rotors. Honestly, in my opinion, it's the pad material that has the greatest effect on breaking, and not the company that (re)sells them. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that companies like Nissin and EBC acquire their pads elsewhere (maybe even from the same place D2Moto gets theirs???)
The set I just ordered today from them are the sintered hh pads. Just can't beat their prices.....
Edited by Turk 2013-04-02 12:55 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | Thanks. For that price I'll give them a try. Ithink I would prefer the sintered HH pads though.
Edited by cw1115 2013-04-02 12:59 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 70
Fryeburg ME | Turk - 2013-04-02 11:41 AM
Last June, I bought complete front and rear brake pads (2 sets front, 1 set rear) from D2Moto for a grand total of $34, including shipping! (with a 5$ off coupon code). Even if I only get 20k miles out of them, can't beat the value...
http://www.d2moto.com/casearch.aspx?searchterm=Victory+Vision+brake...
Ah hell, now that I'm thinking about it, I went ahead and just ordered another complete set (2 front, 1 rear) from them. Used coupon code D2M2008 to get 15% for a total of $31.23 for Sintered HH pads plus $5.99 shipping. Not sure where to find a better deal than that.
Thanks Turk great price just ordered same as you....
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
| How hard is it to change the rear pads? Would really like to save on the labor cost at the dealership and looks like a real good deal on the pads from the site. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | CGVVT, it is pretty easy. Laying the bike on the right side tip-overs if you don't have a lift will help a lot.
REAR BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Always replace brake pads as a set. The rear
brake pads can be changed with the caliper installed
on the motorcycle. Refer to page 2.13 for rear pad
inspection.
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to remove the caliper
from the bracket with bracket installed.
1. Push caliper toward wheel to push pad and pistons
back and provide clearance for new pad installation.
NOTE: Brake fluid will be forced back into the
reservoir when pads are pushed back. Remove
reservoir cover and monitor fluid level, or attach a
hose to the brake bleeder screw (as described in
Brake Bleeding on page 15.14) and open the bleed
screw while pushing the pads and pistons back.
NOTE: The caliper should move freely on guide pins.
2. Loosen the retaining pin (A).
3. Slide the retaining pin out to allow the brake pads to
be removed.
4. Note orientation of spring plate and pad retainer.
Replace both parts with new.
5. Wipe brake disc clean with a shop towel sprayed with
Victory Brake Cleaner.
6. Thoroughly clean the brake caliper body with Victory
Brake Cleaner.
7. Install new inner brake pad. Be sure backing plate (C)
is properly installed on new pad. Slide pad into place
and engage tab (D) in the pad retainer in the back of
the caliper .
8. Install new outer brake pad. Be sure tab is engaged
with caliper as for inner pad (see Step 7).
9. Apply Silicone Grease (009-Z00-111) to O-ring on pad
retaining pin. Install the pin and torque to 13.5 Nm
(120 lb-in).
10. Inspect fluid level in the reservoir and adjust as
necessary (page 15.13).
11. Pump brake pedal slowly several times to set new pads
against disc, until lever is firm and pressure can be felt.
12. Bleed brake system if necessary (page 15.14).
I did not read this the first time and somehow got the caliper off. DO NOT DO THAT!
I had to remove the wheel to put it back together and a 15 minute job turned into 2 hours since I had to go pick up a MC lift.
This is from the service manual. I can't copy the pics. I used the old sping and retainer.
Edited by cw1115 2013-04-03 2:23 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | I wouldn't be surprised to learn that companies like Nissin and EBC acquire their pads elsewhere (maybe even from the same place D2Moto gets theirs???)
Be surprised!
D2Moto is in City of Industry, CA, which we know is basically a Chinese redistribution mega warehouse city.
Those are very good prices. If saving a few bucks is the bottom line, can't beat it for sure.
I'll stick with EBC, mfg and sold here in the US. They actually make all their products in 2 factories. One in the USA and one in the UK.
EBC brake products are not redistributed Asian brands.
Edited by okie vision 2013-04-03 2:29 PM
(ebc 001 (Small).JPG)
Attachments
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 ebc 001 (Small).JPG (90KB - 2 downloads)
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| okie vision - 2013-04-03 2:28 PM
I wouldn't be surprised to learn that companies like Nissin and EBC acquire their pads elsewhere (maybe even from the same place D2Moto gets theirs???)
Be surprised!
D2Moto is in City of Industry, CA, which we know is basically a Chinese redistribution mega warehouse city.
Those are very good prices. If saving a few bucks is the bottom line, can't beat it for sure.
I'll stick with EBC, mfg and sold here in the US. They actually make all their products in 2 factories. One in the USA and one in the UK.
EBC brake products are not redistributed Asian brands.
That is certainly very good to know! I generally prefer to buy American made if the price is even remotely close... How much is a complete set of sintered brakes from EBC for the Vision?
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | Cheaper than Ma Vic but you could probably change pads 2 1/2 times from D2moto for what 1 full set of frt/rear EBC's run.
I paid 30 for rears and almost 60 for fronts, sintered HH. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1109
| I replaced front and rear at about 22k with EBC long life pads. They difference in stopping power and less brake dust is great. |
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Fountain Inn, SC United States | All - if you know the part numbers for the EBC and D2moto brake pads, I urge you to enter them in the Victory Part Listing we have. It will help others when it comes time to buy.
http://www.vision-riders.com/parts.asp |
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Central Wisconsin | okie vision - 2013-04-03 2:28 PM ... . I'll stick with EBC, mfg and sold here in the US..... + 1 on EBC
Turk - 2013-04-03 2:31 PM...How much is a complete set of sintered brakes from EBC for the Vision?
Not sure if this is the best price, I bought EBC brakes here . Jedi Jeff - 2013-04-04 9:16 AM All - if you know the part numbers for the EBC and D2moto brake pads, I urge you to enter them in the Victory Part Listing we have. It will help others when it comes time to buy. http://www.vision-riders.com/parts.asp The EBC brake pad numbers that had already been entered in, are correct ;-)
Edited by Thomas 2013-04-04 9:44 AM
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 10
| cw1115 - 2013-04-03 2:21 PM
CGVVT, it is pretty easy. Laying the bike on the right side tip-overs if you don't have a lift will help a lot.
REAR BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Always replace brake pads as a set. The rear
brake pads can be changed with the caliper installed
on the motorcycle. Refer to page 2.13 for rear pad
inspection.
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to remove the caliper
from the bracket with bracket installed.
1. Push caliper toward wheel to push pad and pistons
back and provide clearance for new pad installation.
NOTE: Brake fluid will be forced back into the
reservoir when pads are pushed back. Remove
reservoir cover and monitor fluid level, or attach a
hose to the brake bleeder screw (as described in
Brake Bleeding on page 15.14) and open the bleed
screw while pushing the pads and pistons back.
NOTE: The caliper should move freely on guide pins.
2. Loosen the retaining pin (A).
3. Slide the retaining pin out to allow the brake pads to
be removed.
4. Note orientation of spring plate and pad retainer.
Replace both parts with new.
5. Wipe brake disc clean with a shop towel sprayed with
Victory Brake Cleaner.
6. Thoroughly clean the brake caliper body with Victory
Brake Cleaner.
7. Install new inner brake pad. Be sure backing plate (C)
is properly installed on new pad. Slide pad into place
and engage tab (D) in the pad retainer in the back of
the caliper .
8. Install new outer brake pad. Be sure tab is engaged
with caliper as for inner pad (see Step 7).
9. Apply Silicone Grease (009-Z00-111) to O-ring on pad
retaining pin. Install the pin and torque to 13.5 Nm
(120 lb-in).
10. Inspect fluid level in the reservoir and adjust as
necessary (page 15.13).
11. Pump brake pedal slowly several times to set new pads
against disc, until lever is firm and pressure can be felt.
12. Bleed brake system if necessary (page 15.14).
I did not read this the first time and somehow got the caliper off. DO NOT DO THAT!
I had to remove the wheel to put it back together and a 15 minute job turned into 2 hours since I had to go pick up a MC lift.
This is from the service manual. I can't copy the pics. I used the old sping and retainer.
cw1115, appreciate the info and will not remove the caliper!! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 238
SF Bay Area | For the fronts I do have a simple suggestion. If you are doing the work in a place where any person might touch the bike, I recommend putting apiece of wood between the brake lever and the grip, held in pace with something like a rubber band. I speak from experience here, once you remove the brake shoes DO NOT ALLOW THE BRAKE LEVER TO BE PULLED, you will shoot the caliper pistons out of the housing. Imagine my surprise to find my front brakes all messed up due to a friend casually giving the lever a squeeze while walking by the bike.
I also recommend buying the best pad for your style of riding. A softer (organic) pad will generally work well and be fairly quiet. A harder pad (more metallic) may need a little warming up to be most effective, but may give you better high temp performance, at the expense of your rotor life. Ceramic pads and rotors are great if you are a maniac, and always push the bike's limits. As your pads wear, they become thinner, and transfer more heat to the caliper and fluid, causing fade, so you may want to replace them before they become "thin". |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| buddahead - 2013-04-04 12:06 PM
For the fronts I do have a simple suggestion. If you are doing the work in a place where any person might touch the bike, I recommend putting apiece of wood between the brake lever and the grip, held in pace with something like a rubber band. I speak from experience here, once you remove the brake shoes DO NOT ALLOW THE BRAKE LEVER TO BE PULLED, you will shoot the caliper pistons out of the housing. Imagine my surprise to find my front brakes all messed up due to a friend casually giving the lever a squeeze while walking by the bike.
I also recommend buying the best pad for your style of riding. A softer (organic) pad will generally work well and be fairly quiet. A harder pad (more metallic) may need a little warming up to be most effective, but may give you better high temp performance, at the expense of your rotor life. Ceramic pads and rotors are great if you are a maniac, and always push the bike's limits. As your pads wear, they become thinner, and transfer more heat to the caliper and fluid, causing fade, so you may want to replace them before they become "thin".
Or put the wood in the calipers, in the space vacated by the pads.... |
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Cruiser
Posts: 134
, MO | Jeff, the parts list only shows front pads for 2010. Are they the same for 08?
Thanks |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | In a similar vein, are the '12s the same as the '11s? I see quite a few that show they're compatible with 2011s but NOT 2012s. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Regarding brake cleaner... doesn't that stuff damage the rubber piston boots if you spray it directly on them; while trying to clean the caliper? Is there something else that can be used to clean the caliper? |
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | Here's what 09's front pads looked like at 32,654 miles-just replaced with EBC pads. I have Speed Bleeders in both my Vics and change fluid regularly with Motul 5.1 full synthetic fluid-takes about 15 minutes tops.
[IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/BRIANnCOLO/IMG_1245_zpse18abbdd.jpg[/IMG] |
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changing front brake pads
![[IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/BRIANnCOLO/IMG_1245_zpse18abbdd.jpg[/IMG]](http://s69.photobucket.com/user/BRIANnCOLO/media/IMG_1245_zpse18abbdd.jpg.html){kind=link}