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Trailer isolation
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quantum
Posted 2009-12-27 7:30 PM (#50299)
Subject: Trailer isolation


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 39
Brighton, MI
I know its been discussed before, Do we need to add isolators to the trailer wiring, and if so were can we get one. Ive seen where people said use the hopkins 48925.. but is that a five wire to four wire convertor ( How does the isolator work to keep to load off the bike wiring. Simular to a one way diode?
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Teach
Posted 2009-12-27 11:06 PM (#50308 - in reply to #50299)
Subject: Re: Trailer isolation


Visionary

Posts: 1436
I used the Hopkins and it provides the required protection if I recall based on load. However if you want to completely isolate there are a number of harnessesyou could purchase. I know Bushtec sells a very nice one. With that said I believe there are around 20 or so folks here running different trailers who have never had an issue running the Hopkins isolater load regulator. My only concern was cutting into the wires. I haven't had time to order the two plugs to make a mock up plug and go harness that would simply plug in between the two stock plugs. Might have time next month to give it a go. If so I'll do a writeup with pics.
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quantum
Posted 2009-12-29 10:19 AM (#50362 - in reply to #50299)
Subject: Re: Trailer isolation


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 39
Brighton, MI
Hey Teach, thanks for your info- greatly appreciated. Thats a fantastic idea to build a harness and plug it into the original harness. Do you know the manufacture of the harness to purchase the weathertite plugs? One last thing- it is safe to say the hopkins 48925 converter is also an isolator.
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Teach
Posted 2009-12-29 2:30 PM (#50371 - in reply to #50299)
Subject: Re: Trailer isolation


Visionary

Posts: 1436
quantum, if you want true Isolation this is what you need http://www.kriss.com/traileri400.php
The Hopkins unit we have been discussing WILL draw somewhere around 2 amps per leg, so no it doesn't isolate. If I was pulling a trailer regularly I'd add the Kriss Isolator (probably will in the spring when I pick up my trailer). Currently I tow my brothers pop up camper maybe once a season but I plan to tow more this year.
Now I am sure there are OTHER isolators around much cheaper, but I've used Kriss products before and they last forever and I've never heard of anyone having a problem with any of their stuff. You can also email Bushtec and I believe they sell a universal Isolator for right around the same cost.
The basic difference between the Isolators and the Hopkins 48925 is this: The power for an Isolator comes directly from the battery through the relay and to the trailer lights. So you have NO draw from the bikes "ELECTRONICS." On Computer controlled bikes like the Vision draw is monitored so any additional load would be sensed by the computer and "could" create a problem. So if you use the Hopkins solutions harness you could and I emphasis could experience electronic issues. Running an Isolator harness eliminates that potential issue. My advice would be to use a proper Isolator if you plan to tow frequently, and if you aren't a cheap son of a gun, lol....
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bigwill5150
Posted 2010-01-08 11:18 AM (#50965 - in reply to #50299)
Subject: Re: Trailer isolation


Iron Butt

Posts: 725
Reno County, KS
I've ordered this: http://www.etrailer.com/p-119176/Upgraded-Modulite-Circuit-Protecte...
It's a true isolator and allows use of LED and/or bulbs plus will adapt 3 lights to 2 if needed. I have dealt with this place once before and they were on the up and up. Nothing but a broker basically as they ship from the MFG but that's fine with me. I'm betting that I could have gotten away with using a straight harness since my trailer is LED and the relays will pull nearly as much amperage as the little relays will but who knows what I'll be pulling in the future? The few extra bucks are worth the shorting protection. For $50, I can't complain. It would cost me more to buy 4 relays and a plug at the auto parts store.
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smiskimens
Posted 2010-08-02 12:15 PM (#66144 - in reply to #50965)
Subject: Re: Trailer isolation


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 12
Duvall, WA
Big Will, have you had any issues or problems with the etrailer unit you noted in your reply. I'm needing to get my VV wired for my trailer that arrives in a couple of weeks. When it comes to electrical, I'm a hell of a plumber, so I'm definitely going to have a pro do the work. However, I want to make sure that I purchase the correct parts. I've seen a post from Teach noting a part from Kriss that is 3x the cost of the etrailer part.

Just want to make sure I'm not asking for future problems if I buy the cheaper part. Thanks for your time.

Scott.
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smiskimens
Posted 2010-08-11 11:25 AM (#66903 - in reply to #50308)
Subject: Re: Trailer isolation


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 12
Duvall, WA
Hey Teach, where did you run the wires for the battery connection? Any lessons learned here? I'm concerned I'm going to have to take a lot of body parts off the bike to run the power up to the battery. THoughts? Pictures? Thanks,

Scott M.
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