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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | I took off my front wheel; going to have the OEM tire replaced tomorrow with the same. Was looking at my front pads just now; my bike has about 18.5K miles on it.
Would you go ahead and change these out? How much more mileage would these be good for (in 50/50 highway/city)? I have a set of EBC's waiting but I just really can't remember what the OEM pads looked like new; so I don't know if I am at half life with them or what.
Right caliper:
Left caliper:
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | shucks, Will is this a trick question? Change those pads out and send them to me. I'll get another 18,000 miles out of them. Mine are like paper now and I need to order some. |
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Tourer
Posts: 573
Central Illinois | As long as you can still see those slots in them they are as good as they ever were. If you have EBC HH pads ready to go, spend 15minutes and change them yourself. They are very easy to reach on the front wheel and after changing mine, when they really didn't need it, I am so glad I did. The wooden response of the stock pads is now gone. |
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | No those pads have a long way to go-here's a photo of my vision front pads with 32,654 miles on them when replaced for comparison.
Edited by ByteN2it 2014-11-24 5:02 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Ha! Not a trick question varyder... since I got the wheel off and it's easier to get to everything now... was just wondering if this would be a good time to r&r the pads as well... I know they still have some meat on them.
I don't have a wooden response (...but I know what you're talking about; Oldman47) and I do look forward to seeing/sensing if their is any appreciable stopping power between the stock OEM and the EBC's... stay tuned.
I was looking at your pads ByteN2it... and it seems that you had some uneven wear with one of them. Pistion sticking? I noticed that some of my pads seem to be thinner than the opposing one on the other side of the rotor... matter of fact I've seen it on other bikes as well... even with an apparently clean caliber.
Was also debating whether to pop the pads out of the calipers and clean all of the gunk out (though it doesn't seem too bad at this time) or let that wait until I do replace the pads. Was looking at Brakleen products and all of them say to avoid rubber brake components (meaning piston seals) so what else could you use to do a quick clean of the calibers? Simple Green? WD-40? (with the pads removed of course...)...
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| to changer the pads is like twenty minuets a side. So that would take you about a cup of coffee even with the wheel on.
Wait we always have more time then money |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | I don't think 20 minutes per side... maybe 20 minutes total?
One thing I would like to do is clean those pistons though... I know they were immaculate when new... now got all sorts of crud on their surface... (bad for the seals when they are pushed back in).
Someone on another forum remarked to use those little disposable Clorox towlets to clean 'em up. Thoughts? |
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Tourer
Posts: 573
Central Illinois | If you do the left side by removing the caliper, make sure you take note of the ABS routing. It is easy to get back on right if you know what it should look like but if not it will cause you headaches. |
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Cruiser
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Georgia On My Mind.... United States | The ole rule of thumb was to change the pads when they wore to the thickness of a nickel.
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | Spray can of brake cleaner & a toothbrush make quick work of cleaning up a caliper-no WD or Simple Green. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | ByteN2it - 2014-11-25 8:15 AM
Spray can of brake cleaner & a toothbrush make quick work of cleaning up a caliper-no WD or Simple Green.
But the issue with brake cleaner; on the can it says protect rubber brake parts from over spray. That means piston seals; does it not?
Is it really safe to use brake cleaner on an assembled caliper? I thought the caliper was supposed to be disassembled; in order to clean with it?
Edited by willtill 2014-11-25 7:40 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | I've never had and seal deterioration issues- it's not something that I'd do every week but when I replace pads every few years a quick blast that evaporates in a minute doesn't seem to have ever done any harm in my experience. You make the call. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | Yikes. I've sprayed down my calipers with that stuff many times over the years. I didn't know I was doing anything wrong, but obvisiously I have been. I hope I can make it to 200,000 before everything blows apart. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | ByteN2it - 2014-11-25 9:56 AM
I've never had and seal deterioration issues- it's not something that I'd do every week but when I replace pads every few years a quick blast that evaporates in a minute doesn't seem to have ever done any harm in my experience. You make the call.
varyder - 2014-11-25 11:32 AM
Yikes. I've sprayed down my calipers with that stuff many times over the years. I didn't know I was doing anything wrong, but obvisiously I have been. I hope I can make it to 200,000 before everything blows apart.
Well... so these are the things that I want to hear; and see testament pertaining to my question.
I had been looking at Brakleen products; and out of the few that they market; one is safe for rubber brake components; It's called Brakleen Fast Dry but I haven't been able to find it anywhere. Just the regular Brakleen chlorinated and non-chlorinated stuff is available.
Maybe I'll take a chance and use the non-chlorinated stuff, since varyder and ByteN2it didn't blow up; smoking and skidding into a mangled, blood and iron gore heap. 
Thanks guys!
Edited by willtill 2014-11-25 2:04 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Here is a good article I just found on how to clean the calipers. The do mention that using brake cleaner over time dries out the seals AND It also removes any lubrication between the oil seal and piston causing drag
http://gear-garage.com/2012/04/06/cleaning-front-brake-calipers-and... |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | hmmmm, kinda of a drag...yes, I've had sticky pistons...so...hmmm....I've sprayed them down with wd40...hmmmm...I guess I ain't a doing that no mo.... |
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Cruiser
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| willtill
My front pads needed changing at 41,000 miles. Rear pads only 1/2 worn. You will have stronger brakes with new pads. With the weight of the Vision, plus rider, and passenger, the pads get a work out every time they are applied. I have had good luck with "DP" and "EBC" brand pads. It is an easy job to change them on the Vision.
DP |
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Glendale, AZ United States | There was a similar forum some time back regarding brake pads. You got plenty left. Save your money, even though it's tempting with the front tire off the bike. Is this what you are talking about? It looks stout, even though I have not used this myself, but the reviews look solid.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5089T-Brakleen-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B000ICCS7...
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Vladezip - 2014-11-26 1:01 PM
There was a similar forum some time back regarding brake pads. You got plenty left. Save your money, even though it's tempting with the front tire off the bike. Is this what you are talking about? It looks stout, even though I have not used this myself, but the reviews look solid.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5089T-Brakleen-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B000ICCS7...
Hey Vlad... no that is not the correct Brakleen product... it says in the product description to avoid all over spray on rubber parts.
This is the stuff that I cannot find.. but it is safe for the rubber parts:
http://www.georgehenry.co.nz/shop/Chemicals/Cleaners+%26+Degreasers...
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Would you change these brake pads?
