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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | I might do a write and put in the tech reference, but I'll start here first. I've got 91,600 miles on my '08 Vision as it sits in the driveway. I had the 15,000 miles service done at the dealer and I assume all was done correctly. The book calls for 15,000 mile greasing to the head bearing, but the next time I touched it was at 44,500 miles when I did the service, that was 30,000 miles without servceing. At that point it was beyond shot, rusted and badly worn both bearing and race. Replaced the set myself with the exception of taking the tree to the dealer to pull and replace the bearing. I had to cut the race out to get it removed using a grinding tool. The next time I'll drill a punch hole from the top and just tap it out.
Well, you think I'd learn my lesson from the first time, but I didn't, I jad 47,000 miles on this bearing without pulling it. It has been feeling really loose lately and thought maybe I'd better check it. Well it was, but it was still lubed and in good shape. I've noticed some wear pattern to the rear of the race and that, in my mind, is to be expected if it is too loose. I've torqued it down according to the book, but took it a little less than the quarter turn recommended. It is tight, but not too tight, and that old familiar feel I miss is back, like it is riding on a rail.
When I first got the Vision, that was what distinctly set it apart for me, like it was riding a rail, especially in the curves. Because of the rain yesterday I waited until this morning to take it for a good 40 minute ride on the interstate, backroads and in town and it rides almost perfect. It feels tight, but there is no binding, and perhaps since I was so used to loose that it is taking a minute to get use to it. I don't find any problems any where, just feels tight.
Any feed back is appreciated, but I wanted to share that if your Vision feels out of character it is probably the head bearing. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 741
Central New York | Thanks for the info, good to know. Any tech details is always appreciated.
If Polaris were any kind of people they would just give you a new one at 100k and take that one back and dissect it for research. There is no analysis as good as 100k of actual day-to-day. |
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Central Wisconsin | ...I had to cut the race out to get it removed using a grinding tool. The next time I'll drill a punch hole from the top and just tap it out. My other bike I had to grind a slice in the lower race (stuck to the tree) and knock it off with a cold chisel.
... Any feed back is appreciated, but I wanted to share that if your Vision feels out of character it is probably the head bearing Nice write up on the SHB's (steering head bearings) events. Did you replace the SHB's with Timken bearings or OEM?
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | how hard is it to grease those bearings? I never done this yet? and does it need any special type of grease? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | regular victory grease, but just pull the tree per manual and you can get to it. Console, handle bar and tubes are taken off first. You definitely need a spanner socket for the headnut, special from Vic, I made my own. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | Cap'n Nemo - 2011-05-15 11:21 AM
regular victory grease, but just pull the tree per manual and you can get to it. Console, handle bar and tubes are taken off first. You definitely need a spanner socket for the headnut, special from Vic, I made my own.
thanks for tell me about that special tool. im glad to know this before i would ever start it.. do you by some chance have the part number for that special tool? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | no, but I believe the book cites it and I don't have it at my finger tips. I had a piece of steel pipe that I used to drive out bearings in my suspension on an old jeep I had. It was exactly the same size as the head bearing nut so I ground away everything that didn't like a spanner socket, drove a 1/2 drive socket into it and bolted it to keep it from turning. It works real well and didn't cost me the an extra dime. The torque on that is 29ftlbs. I looked it up, spanner socket PV-43508. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Cap'n Nemo
Are you saying the triple tree bolts is tighten to 29 pounds?
Not that I'm doughting you but that just doesn't seam right. Sounds way to easy. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | Stem nut according to the book |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | just wondering, what attaches to this in order to loose the nut? http://polaris.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=364&cat=5 |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | Arkainzeye - 2011-06-07 9:12 AM
just wondering, what attaches to this in order to loose the nut? http://polaris.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=364&cat=5
my guess is a 1/2" drive... |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | I just went to my local napa auto parts store to pick up a large container of DOT 4 brake fluid FOR When my new brakes come in . while I was there I saw they had amsoil wheel bearing grease . On the front of the container it says, Heavy Duty Synthetic Grease (moly fortified Extreme Pressure) |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | it would be nice if there was a zirk there. But if you have to replace them, it would be best to drive a drive hole from the top and punch it out. That's what I'll do next time because it is a monster to chisel out. Most folks I asked on how to get it out they said drive it by the hole, but there is no hole and a whole lot of lip. I saw no reason not to drill a drive hole about 5/32 or so and punch it next time. But a zirk would be nice. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Cap'n Nemo
I wounder if Vic puts in a good amount of grease to begin with. Cap'n long as you have been there could a guy tap and thread in a grease fitting.
I would think any high temp wheel bearing grease would work. Did you say you replace them with stock bearings or better ones from a bearing house.
Close to if not a good 100 degrees today with high humidity. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | I went with stock.
I'm really truly miffed over my entire situation with this. The reason why that I am miffed is because when I first touched it myself was at 45,000 orginal miles on the bike. The dealer did the 15,000 miles service which calls for inspecting and greasing the bearing. At the 45,000, 30,000 miles after it was supposed to have been serviced it was bone dry and rusted and a total waste. I removed, greased and installed it myself. Now at 90,000 miles, 45,000 miles since I touched it last, it was loose because I didn't adjust it right, but still was looking good and greased. I greased it and properly torqued and it rides on a rail now.
I think we could get away with a grease fitting but I'd have to pull the faring off, which I have never stripped mine down as of yet. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | That tool that is needed to get to the bearings does Sears have anything like that? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | Arkainzeye - 2011-06-07 1:33 PM
That tool that is needed to get to the bearings does Sears have anything like that?
The top tree is standard 32mm I believe. The bearing nut is a spanner type. I hate to give away my secret, but I happened to have a 2" pipe piece. I believe that is exactly the same diameter as that nut, but I marked and cut the pipe to match the slots. Then I took a cheap socket that fit as close as I could get it then drilled a hole and ran a bolt through it to keep it from spinning. I just use a regular 1/2 drive and it seems to work okay for me.
To answer your Sears question, I don't believe so, I searched everywhere for the same size spanner, but either I couldn't find it or they wanted a lot of dough for it. I like my solution better. I think Polaris wants about $30 for it.
Edited by Cap'n Nemo 2011-06-07 1:53 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | its good to know that the top tree is 32mm i can at least make sure i have that one, before i order that Special tool. i hate to buy a tool for a couple uses. but at the same time the tool would be alot cheaper than having the dealer do the job every 15-20K ! i will probably have to have the dealer do the fork oil though? did you say i would need another special tool for the springs in the forks? |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | Cap'n,
How about a picture of your homemade spanner? |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | yeah i would love too see the homemade spanner!!! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | the book calls for a regular spring compressor, probably something you can get from napa or order from sears. I use a shade tree technique there also. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Like he said buying the tool would be cheaper then the dealer. Getting bearing from a bearing house would cut the coast of the tool.
Here is the best part you pack the bearing with good wheel bearing grease and you put in extra on top of the neck. Now you do your torquing and you know its all done right cause you did it your self.
The next time I have to do a headlight I will look about putting a fitting in. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | i notice in the service manual it gives the tool part numbers for that spanner socket. but i can NOT find a place that will sell it! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1359
New Bohemia, Va | I'll try to take a picture of the master piece tomorrow. |
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Head bearing
