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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | Just finished installing the mufflers from my Stage 1 Level 1 package. Took about three hours, not for the faint at heart. They sound very good, and are a total of 22 pounds less than the stock mufflers. Plan on getting the air filter and the flash done Christmas when dealer does the intial maintenance. |
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Tourer
Posts: 496
Scottsdale AZ | VisionTex - 2007-12-19 9:22 PM
Just finished installing the mufflers from my Stage 1 Level 1 package. Took about three hours, not for the faint at heart. They sound very good, and are a total of 22 pounds less than the stock mufflers. Plan on getting the air filter and the flash done Christmas when dealer does the intial maintenance.
Tex- Did you take out that silly little baffler? few more hp! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | If by baffle you talking about the honey comb insert in the header pipe, no I did not take it out. I'm looking basically for a little better sound, not so much of a hp jump. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 223
Valdosta, GA | The honeycomb insert in the header pipes is the catalytic converter. |
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Tourer
Posts: 496
Scottsdale AZ | mike s - 2007-12-20 3:41 PM
The honeycomb insert in the header pipes is the catalytic converter.
Mike - Shhh! Don't tell everyone- It is hard to get out of there- |
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Cruiser
Posts: 296
Central Florida | Supposedly the stage 1 level 2s weigh 40 lbs less and according to Polaris website take only 30-60 minutes to install. I am holding out! Last date I heard was 12/31/07.
They listed the level 1s as a MAJOR job and should not be attempted by anyone who is not a certified mechanic.
Level 1 stage 1 quote from Polaris
We highly recommend your authorized Polaris dealer professionally install this item. Specialized tools and a complete mechanics tool assortment will be needed to perform the installation. Major machine modifications or disassembly may be required to install this item. Advanced item knowledge is required. Estimated time to professionally install this item ranges greatly. Contact your local Polaris dealer for more information. [top] How do I schedule installation? To schedule the installation of an item, please contact your local Polaris dealer.
level 1 stage 2 quote from polaris
Installing this item will be slightly more difficult. Instructions will clearly identify any simple modifications needed for assembly. A less experienced individual may require additional assistance from someone with more mechanical aptitude. A set of tools will be needed to assist in the installation process. Estimated time to install is 30 to 60 minutes.
Edited by devilboy 2007-12-20 8:25 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | The Stage 1 Level 1 instructions were bad, so I doubt the Level 2 will be much better. The biggest issue with the install was the original mufflers would not come off the header pipe. The valance under the bag really does not come off completely unless you remove the rear valance around the tail light, so though not a show stopper, it just took me a little time to figure out it was not coming off. The mufflers would not come off the header pipe so I cut them off, then was able to split the intlet pipe from around the header pipe. First muffler took me an hour and a half, second one was done in 30 minutes. In between was a couple of cool beverages. If you rolled a Vision into my garage tomorrow morning, I'd have a set of Level 1s on in 60 minutes, because NOW I know. As for having a Certified Mechanic do this, sure, if you want, but it is not rocket science. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 296
Central Florida | Thanks for info! My dealer owes me the sets of level 2s and installation as part of my deal upon purchase. I am not having them install air filter or flash the computer because I am going to have Kevin X install a VFC 3 especially set up for vision and dyno tune it.
it will happen sometime in january or feb if I am lucky.
Ride safe! |
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Fountain Inn, SC United States | If someone else does their own stage 1 installation, please consider taking photos and describing the steps so others can learn. That's what this site's all about!
Thanks Guys! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | I thought about taking picture, but didn't on this. Next project I will. I put some steps down that I did and the tools.
1. I have a motorcycle lift (Sears) and put the bike on that so it level.
2. I took off both bag doors, there are six 10 mm bolts on each door. This is easy, but would be good to have an extra set of hands to hold door.
3. Once the doors are off I took off what I call the side covers, silver panel that wrap around under seat. There are two connectors under the seat that pop out ( use little screw driver in the head slot) once those are out the side covers come off. Now I just did one muffler at at a time, I started on the high side.
4. There is a valance that runs from the side cover area all the way back to the taillight valance. There are six 4mm hex head screws, remove them all, there are some snap clips also you just have to gently pull back on the valance and the will pop out, when you put it back on they must snap back into the same slots.
5. (High Side) Remove the front heat shield off the header pipe, there is a screw clamp at the header pipe muffler connection area loosen that up. Then there is a 10 mm bolt just infront of that, remove.
6. Loosen the clamp that holds the muffler to the header pipe and slide forward, couple inches.
7. Take a look at your new mufflers, you can see two brakets with bolts welded to them, this is the same as on the original mufflers. They are what you hang the mufflers to the frame with. Find them, they are behind the valance. They are a 10 mm nut, remove the nuts there is a rubber groumet behind each nut, plus the same on the other side of the frame. Towards the back end of the muffler under side you see a square bracket off the frame, this is the last connection, remove the bolt, 10 mm.
8. Now the directions call for you to rotate the muffler off the two hanger bolts. If this works that is great, that is what did not work for me. The muffler was siezed to the header pipe. If yours is siezed, get the reciprocating saw out, put a long metal cutting blade in it and cut the muffler off. I made my cut in the little groove on the inlet to the muffler body. Before doing this put the two 10 mm nuts back on the two hanger bolts. Cut, the pipe, take off the nuts and the old muffler will come down and out. Don't loose the two rubber groumets on the hanger bolt, they go back on the new muffler.
9. If you have to cut the muffler off, now you have about two inch piece of the muffler inlet to be removed from the end of the header pipe. This can be done by carefully cutting the piece so it can be spread, you can do this with your reciprocating saw, just don't cut into the header pipe.
10. Remove the heat shield from the muffler, you have to split the bands, I used side cutters.
11. Remove the tail piece form the old muffler, three 10 mm bolts. As soon as you remove that, bolt it back onto your new muffler, and then reinstall the heat shield onto the new muffler using the clamps they provided in the kit.
12. Your pretty much done at this point, it is just put it back together like it came off. Putting all the pieces back as you took them off. The only difference on the Low Side, is the front heat shield is different, but it is simple to remove and reinstall.
Like I said the biggest issue is if your mufflers don't come off as the direction. Anyway I wrote this up really fast, don't believe I missed anything, good luck.
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | Here is a good deal, save ~$150.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Victory-Vision-Stage-1-Level-1-Exhau... |
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Visionary
Posts: 3204
Memphis | S1/L1 turned out to be such a hassle on my bike that my dealer said that the install labor would probably not be included free with the initial purchase. (Anything is negotiable.)
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Cruiser
Posts: 293
Arkansas | I just spayed a little WD40 on the joint and
used a thin flathead screwdriver to flare the
flange a bit; then just hit the front of the stock
muffler with a rubber hammer(use a length of wood if your
aim is bad). Try to rotate at same time- comes off in less than
a minute. It's nice if you have one of those rubber strip
wrench contraptions to twist the muff with. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | SongFan - 2008-01-28 1:23 PM
S1/L1 turned out to be such a hassle on my bike that my dealer said that the install labor would probably not be included free with the initial purchase. (Anything is negotiable.)
I would be surprised if a dealer actually would install these for just the price of the accessory. I know on my Kinpin I was charged for the install, that is why I did this one myself.
I actually used a strap wrench when I did the removal, didn't work. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 810
| Mitch from TheVMC.com posted these video clips of his Stage1 / Level 1 pipes with Gatlin tips. They sound great !!!
http://www.youtube.com/kmiller6179 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhxhjJXyeQc |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 732
Western WA | Hate to resurrect an old thread, but it seemed like the right place to ask.
Does the bike need a re-map with the S1 L1 install?
And I know every dealer is different, but for those that have had it done, was a re-map included with the dealer install? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | When you buy the Stage 1 Level 1 kit it comes with two mufflers, and new air filter, instructions, and a reflash card which has a number on it the dealer needs to complete the reflash. If you have the dealer install all of this, it should be one price which includes the reflash. If you do the install, he may charge you for the reflash service.
I put on my own level 1 mufflers, the dealer put in the air filter and reflashed. He did not charge me for that specific service as I have maintenance contract with them, paid for that up front when I bought the bike.
Will the bike run with just the level 1 mufflers installed, yes. Does it run well, not bad. Does it run better with the reflash, yes.
Hope this answers your questions. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 732
Western WA | That's what I was looking for, thank you VisionTex. |
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Tourer
Posts: 354
20 miles west of Chicago. | I was gratefull to my dealer ( Randy's Cycle) for installing the options I ordered (Stage 1, level 1, Fog lights, Highway pegs.) because he did the installs at no charge. After reading this thread and realizing the difficulty and amount of labor involved in installing the stage 1 pipes, I'm thinking that I wasn't apprecative enough. Kudos to those who did it themselves. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 53
Ann Arbor, MI | Last Fall it took my dealer 8 hours while I was waiting in the showroom since I live 60 miles away. I don't think they did a remap and there was some popping present on deceleration. I also noticed some faint blueing at the the seam on the tips so I put the OEM filter back in until I can get it back to them in the Spring. They should have the tail-gunner tips in by now also. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | Visioneer - 2008-03-10 7:01 PM
I don't think they did a remap and there was some popping present on deceleration. I also noticed some faint blueing at the the seam on the tips so I put the OEM filter back in until I can get it back to them in the Spring.
My Stage 1 Level 1 does have some popping during decel. I actually saw them do the reflash, so I know it was done. My question to you does the reinstall of the filter make much difference in the popping? I don't believe I'm running lean, as the MPG is around 41. The faint stain on the tip is due to exhaust leaking. My regular tips had a stain on the right one. I just put on my tailgunners, haven't seen how those deal with that leakage. I may have to put some sealant around the edges if there is leakage. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 53
Ann Arbor, MI | VisionTex,
Putting the OEM filter back in did reduce the popping. Mine was one of the first ones to get the stage 1 level 1 treatment. There was a lot of confusion at that time on the board here and at the dealer so I'm not convinced that it was remapped. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 36
Glendale, AZ. | Vision Tex, Thanks for the instructions on installing the stage one pipes! The ones from Victory were far complete. |
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Stage 1 Level 1
