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New user
Posts: 1
| I want to move the shift pedal to the aft position. I did complete this using the factory linkage adjusted as short as allowed. The pedal is extremely high off floorboard as I thought it would be.
My dealer tells me (both parts and techs) that the factory rod is supposed to work. Even the owners manual reads that an accessory linkage rod is needed, yet the dealer does not show a shorter rod for this model 2013 Vision Tour. He is going to call Victory and ask them.
Any help, has anyone made this adjustment with or without a different rod?
Thanks...
Ted Thomas |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | I am a little confused by what you are describing as moving the shift pedal to the "aft" position. Why not keep the toe shifter and just add the heel shifter (accessory).
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Loosen the jam nuts on the end of the rod and screw the rod into the heim ends. You might go to far but it can be done |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 19
Tracy, CA | Hey Ted, did you find a shorter shift linkage for your bike? I too would like to move my shifter back and can't find anyone carrying an accessory part. I tried adjusting the stock one and the threads bottomed before I could get the shifter low enough. I don't want a heel shifter. I guess I could resort to moving over a couple of teeth on the shift shaft or shortening the stock linkage, ( there are still plenty of threads showing once it bottoms) I would like to know what your solution was. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Well if you have loosened both locking nuts and moved the rod best you could NOW un bolt the shifter arm and move that.
There are a lot of variables if you do it right.
Or go to hardware store buy threaded rod and cut to length.
Check shifting in garage before road trip |
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Cruiser
Posts: 215
W'ford Tx | If the stock rod is to long just remove it with the two jam nuts still threaded on and take the rod to a chop saw or something that will hold it straight and cut the linkage. Use the jam nuts to clean the cut thread up and you'll be set. I do this to brake chambers all the time, much larger but same concept. Just remember you can always cut more off but you can never add on what you've cut. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| I had this same issue. The only way to use the stock threaded rod and have the pedal in a reasonable position is to remove and re-clock the splined lever that is attached to the transmission shift shaft. This is what the dealer's tech did but it changes the geometry between the two levers increasing the toe pressure required. A much cleaner solution is to lengthen the threaded portion on one end of the threaded rod and then cut off the extended end of the shaft. This is very easy to do.
The threaded rod has a right hand thread on one side and a left hand thread on the other. The only one you want to work on is the side that has the right handed thread. As I remember it the thread used is 6 mm x 1.00. You will need a die that size which is available at most any good hardware or auto parts store along with a cheap wrench to hold the die. Other than that you'll need a 10 mm open end wrench, a bench vise to hold the shaft, a hacksaw and some cutting oil.
Remove the shaft from the bike. The forward nut is a normal right hand thread and the rear nut is a left hand thread and turns backwards. Loosen the nuts up and unscrew the shaft.
Take a ruler and measure 120 mm or 4.7" from the bottom of the left hand thread toward the right hand thread and make a mark. Mount the shaft in your vise holding it in the middle with the right hand thread end pointing up high enough so you can see your mark. Measure the original length of threads with your ruler and make a note of it. You'll need that later.
You are going to cut new threads into the shaft down to the mark you made.
Lubricate the existing right hand thread with your cutting oil and spin the die onto the shaft till it hits the bottom of the existing threads. Apply another drop of oil. Begin cutting new threads by turning the die one revolution at a time and then back off 1/2 turn to break the chips loose. Blow off the chips with air or use a paint brush. Apply another drop of oil and cut another thread. Keep this up till you've reached your mark. Now spin the die off and remove the shaft from the vise.
Clean the shaft up removing all the chips. Now you have to cut the end of the shaft you've threaded so that the threaded area is the same length as it was before. Measure the length of threads you have now and subtract what you originally had. This is how much you are going to remove. Take the original nut and thread it all the way to the bottom of the new threads. Mount the shaft in the vise again but this time clamp it by the threaded end you are going to cut off. Be sure not to put it in the vise too far as you'll damage the threads you're going to use. It's easiest to mount it in the vise so its pointing out the left side parallel to the ground if you're right handed or out the right side if you're a southpaw.
Go ahead and cut off the extra length as squarely as you can. If you have a bench grinder it would be nice to round the end just slightly and remove the burrs. Now carefully and slowly unscrew the nut. It will clean up the starting threads as it comes off.
Reassemble.
You now have shortened the rod sufficiently so that when you place your pedal assembly all the way aft you will be able to adjust the pedal angle wherever you like.
Any questions please ask.
Marc
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| johnnyvision - 2012-10-30 2:31 PM
Or go to hardware store buy threaded rod and cut to length.
Won't work, John. One end is a RH thread and the other is a LH thread.
Marc |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| marcparnes - 2012-10-31 4:42 PM johnnyvision - 2012-10-30 2:31 PM Or go to hardware store buy threaded rod and cut to length. Won't work, John. One end is a RH thread and the other is a LH thread. Marc But I was right when I told them to take the shifter arm off the tranie end shaft/ I didn't relize there was a right an left. Good you did |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 19
Tracy, CA | Thanks Marc, I like your solution. Its on my to do list this weekend. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | For about $75, you can buy one of Witchdoctors custom linkages. Not that much money for a little bling and the right length. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| Monkeyman - 2012-11-01 3:40 AM
For about $75, you can buy one of Witchdoctors custom linkages. Not that much money for a little bling and the right length.Looks like you can order the length you need. That would do it.
Marc
Edited by marcparnes 2012-11-01 7:58 AM
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New user
Posts: 1
| Sorry this is such a late post for subject of moving shift lever back. I am new to this site. I have a 2012 Victory Vision Tour, I resolved the linkage problem by using a OEM ,14 Victory Highball shift linkage, bought it off Ebay for about $20. Anyway, it is a great length for moving the shifter back and requires no modification. You will need to use the the adjustment caps that come with the highball as the rod is a thicker diameter than the stock on the Vision Tour. But it bolts right on with all the same nuts and bolts used on the original. Just in case anyone is still interested. : ) |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 6
Price, UT | I wanted my shifter on the furthest back position too and had the same problem. I determined that the stock adjusting rod was too long. So I cut off about an inch of the stock rod, a half inch on each side and it works fine, it even adjusts back to the middle, but probably would not reach the forward adjustment, but I will never use it that far forward anyway. When you cut off your rod, just make sure your nuts are screwed on so you can heal the threads at the end once you cut it off. You may want to start with less than an inch, but always the same amount off on each side. I measured about how much it would take for it to go back that far and keep the shifter in a normal position.
Edited by sdcvic 2016-04-02 7:54 AM
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2013 Vision Shifter adjustment linkage rod help
