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Visionary
Posts: 2027 Brighton, TN | The engagement of my clutch is right off the handgrip less than a 1/2 inch. If you don't keep it pulled in all the way to the grip it will start to ease forward. Replaced the fluid in the master cylinder and pulled new fluid through it. Didn't change anything!
Also, the clutch lever doesn't stay out all the way. There is at least a 1/2 to 1 inch of loose play at the end of the lever. The dirtbikes I own with a mechanical clutch, the play allowed is to be able to put a quarter between the clutch lever and the mount.
What is the mechanism that makes the lever stay out? It seems the master cylinder does this job. Just don't know how or how to fix it.
How do I make the clutch engage further out like on most bikes? |
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Tourer
Posts: 599 New Mexico | Man, that's a tough one. I would have tried everything you have.
Looked all through the manual, and only thing I can find that it MIGHT be is here:
Edited by Boots 2011-10-31 10:11 AM
(Clutch.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- Clutch.jpg (51KB - 2 downloads)
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Visionary
Posts: 2027 Brighton, TN | Yep, saw that. Thanks for the response. The angle seems to be right for the shaft. I think my problem is going to be near the clutch handle. It is just not engaging soon enough, there is too much slack. I don't know enough yet to figure out what takes the slack out. Doesn't appear to be bent, because I can also push it out to where it used to be. The clutch pinion shaft starts to move as soon as pressure it moves. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| The slack is taken up hydraulically by the master cylinder. What is supposed to happen is that when the master cylinder piston retracts it bares a hole that allows fluid from the reservoir to fill the cylinder. As the clutch wears the extra fluid compensates by filling the slave cylinder so it is more and more applied, if that makes sense. Brakes work exactly the same way. If the system isn't self-compensating there are a couple of things that come to mind that could be at fault.
1. Insufficient fluid in the reservoir.
2. A problem between the master cylinder piston and bore keeping the piston from retracting all the way.
3. Air in the system which requires bleeding.
Just thought of another one: there could be a problem with the handlever itself keeping it from returning fully when you let it go. If this was the case it wouldn't let the piston retract completely which would ultimately cause the same symptoms.
There might be more but that's all I can think of at the moment. I would start by filling the reservoir with the proper fluid and bleeding the system. That's the simplest thing to do and only takes a few minutes and will probably fix it. If not, the problem is going to be in the master cylinder most likely.
Marc
Edited by marcparnes 2011-10-31 10:47 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 2027 Brighton, TN | Thanks, Marc,
Exactly what I was thinking as the level goes down in the master cylinder that would let me know the clutches are wearing and when down near low the clutches need replaced. Same level of thinking concerning brakes. As the brakes wear down the level falls letting me know I need to replace the brake pads.
When I opened the top of the master cylinder the fluid level was high. Black silt in it like most hydraulics that haven't been changed in 4 years. Yeah, for those of you who happened to look at the book it calls for you to replace the fluid every TWO YEARS.
So,
1. Plenty of fluid
2. I believe this would be my problem. Either the spring in the master cylinder is now sprung and no longer pushing or pulling or there is an obstruction not allowing the plunger to come out further. The little rubber boot around the plunger, which is $15.00, is torn. So, to replace the boot, I have to pull the plunger, I think. The master rebuild kit is $35.00. Thinking I might as well do that too.
3. Bled the system last night and no change from normal. Would air in the system keep the clutch handle from returning, doesn't sound like it would. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| Air in the system would not keep the piston from retracting since that is done with a spring but it would allow the piston to easily compress the air before getting to the fluid resulting in lost stroke and your symptoms. I agree with your #2. The spring will be fine but you're liable to find crud in there or some oxidation caused by water getting in via the torn boot. In any case, the piston is probably not returning all the way. There isn't a heck of a lot to it so it will be obvious.
Marc |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Do you have your handle bars turned all the way to the right so that master cylinder is as high as you can get it? If there is air in the line it will go to the highest point. If you do brakes do just the opposite and turn the bars far to the left.
It might be your cylinder if its pitted from bad fluid if thats the case the plunger rubber will slid over the pities and then you will lose the tight seal you need. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027 Brighton, TN | Yes, handlebars all the way to the right. Ordered the rebuild kit and the rubber dust cover for the plunger. |
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