|
|
Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | I use a TPMS - always have, always will. I used to have a SmartTire (no longer being manufactured for motorcycles) - which provided both pressure (temp compensated) and temperature readings. The dealership broke it during a tire change, so now I have the Doran (pressure only). I run with cold pressure for both front and rear at 40PSI. I frequently pull a BushTec trailer - loaded down with two coolers, a Coleman grill and stand, tent, two chairs, etc. When running at interstate speeds (70+) when the outside temperature is over 90deg while pulling the loaded trailer, my front tire pressure shows 44PSI but my rear tire pressure exceeds 50PSI (non-temp compensated; with the old SmartTire, the rear tire would read 45PSI but the temperature would exceed 185deg and the SmartTire would flash warning me that the temperature was critical). Without pulling the trailer, at the above conditions, my front reads 43PSI and my rear reads 47PSI (readings which I can live with). I did blow a rear tire some time back whilst traveling two-up with the loaded trailer in the above conditions - I strongly suspect that this was because of that excessive heat buildup in the rear tire. I have since made it a habit to either slow down a lot (under 55MPH) or to make a gas-stop - in order to allow the rear tire heat to subside; this happens fairly quickly when stopped (10min or so). When I use my cooling vest, the situation is somewhat improved - as the icewater reservior for the cooling vest fills my right saddlebag. Of course, my ice melts fairly quickly (8lb every 45min) in this situation. I am seriously pondering the feasibility of using a hole-saw to create RAM-air feeds at the passenger floorboards, so as to force some cooling air to the rear tire. My question: has anyone else observed this behavior when pulling a trailer with their Vision? Maybe my post will at least cause some of you fellow trailer-pullers to become aware of this potentially dangerous situation. And, please don't flame me by simply telling me to slow down... I like the idea of RAM-air! |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 466
Grand Cane, LA | 40 psi might be too low when pulling the trailer. I'm not sure about motorcycle tires, but tire manufacturers usually recommend more air in your tires when towing to keep the tire from squatting and creating heat. I know it seems odd, but I know when I tow my RV I have to up the rear air psi in my 3/4 ton from 70psi to 80psi just for that reason or risk tire failure. |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 83
Bolivar Missouri | +1 i agree that you may want to put more air in to compensate for the extra weight from the trailer . Looking into pulling a trailer myself the info you have given is definatly a heads up for those that do or are considering it . Thanks |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | Ernie - I honestly had never considered that as a possibility...but yes, now that you mention it, I do have to keep the tires on my dually at 80PSI because of my 38ft triple-axle 5th wheel (which we never seem to use anymore, now that we've got the bikes). Thanks for the suggestion, I'll increase the rear tire pressure and see if the situation improves. |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | it also may indicate too much tongue weight. I hear that having a very low tongue weight will take the stress off of the rear wheel and improve handling. What do I know though...? |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | Chris - the Bushtec Turbo+2 trailer pulls "like a dream"; it's patented independent A-frame air suspension is "guaranteed" not to ever bounce the rear wheels. I can run "full bore" and forget that it's even behind me...no problems in handling at all!
The bulk of its weight (the big ice chest, tent, and chairs) is situated over where the rear axle normally would be. The tongue weight is fairly light (about 35lbs, if I am remembering correctly - I did weigh it carefully a few years ago when I first purchased, per the Bushtec manual). Note that - with my wife now driving her own bike - I have removed 100lb or so from my overall gross weight. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | The Ram air is an interesting concept. I also run a TPMS which displays temp as well as pressure, although I don't pull a trailer.
We're always 2 up and the rear tire temp is alarming. All enclosed back there and the dang pipes too really build up the heat. I like to pick up some fried chicken on the way home from trips and put it in the sidebags. Works as good as an oven!
Drill some holes and let us know how it works before we go boring in to ours, LOL
|
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 4278
| I'm running a car tire and its set at 38psi and I have checked it after a hundred miles in 90 plus and it reads out at 44psi
No trailer and just my trusty tire gauge not a pencil one.
I think the guys are right by adding more air and checking tongue weight |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 135
Chesterfield, VA | I also run a TPMS on my bike and asked the question a few months back on how high should the tire pressure get before I become concerned. The general concensus was "don't worry about it". While I don't agree with this attitude, I still don't know how much of an increase in pressure should trigger an alert. I don't tow a trailer, but noticed that my rear tire pressure would climb as high as 51-52 PSI (I kept it around 40 PSI cold on the Dunlop E-3). I'm now running a car tire and have found my cold tire pressure sweet spot to be between 38-40 PSI. The interesting thing is that the highest I've seen the car tire pressure get is 45 PSI traveling at 75 MPH + on the interstate at 95 dgrees. I don't monitor the tire temps but do keep an eye on the pressure as I have a monitor mounted on the handle bars that gives a constant readout from the sensors. Not sure what the relevance of this may be (if any), but my observations show that my CT pressure doesn't increase as much as my MT - so I have to assume it's running cooler under the same conditions. |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 401
| charbin - 2012-06-05 1:17 PM
Chris - the Bushtec Turbo+2 trailer pulls "like a dream"; it's patented independent A-frame air suspension is "guaranteed" not to ever bounce the rear wheels. I can run "full bore" and forget that it's even behind me...no problems in handling at all!
The bulk of its weight (the big ice chest, tent, and chairs) is situated over where the rear axle normally would be. The tongue weight is fairly light (about 35lbs, if I am remembering correctly - I did weigh it carefully a few years ago when I first purchased, per the Bushtec manual). Note that - with my wife now driving her own bike - I have removed 100lb or so from my overall gross weight.
I would agree with Chris. The weight of the trailer is not only making your tire work harder it is also making your brakes work harder, and that heat will translate to the wheel and ultimately into the tire. If you watch NASCAR you will notice tracks that require more braking tend to have more tire blow outs due to excessive brake heat cooking the tires.
Even though the trailer is supporting its own weight, the braking is still being supplied by the bike. Check your total GVW (including the trailer weight), and I would bet your exceeding it when it is loaded for a trip (or really close to it). If you're not, I would be amazed since it is so easy to exceed the GVW without a trailer riding 2 up.
You could look into a combination of solutions that provides cooler air flow to the rear wheel (and brake), larger/heavier rear brake (or switch to dual brakes), high performance brake pads (vented would be nice), reduce your average speed, add more cool down stops, or carry less stuff.
One of the big reasons why I don't haul a trailer behind a bike isn't getting up to speed or handling, it is stopping from speed and what those added forces do to a bike.
Edited by sgiacci 2012-06-06 3:27 PM
|
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 466
Grand Cane, LA | Chris, isn't Lavon just north of Dallas? Seems like I remember seeing that last time I was over that way. My daughter's in-laws live over in Frisco and I cut through Lindale headed north on 69 to bypass some of the traffic of Dallas. |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 88
Lavon, TX | Ernie - Lavon is NE of Dallas. Your route from Lindale was probably 69 NW to Greenville, then 380 W through Farmersville to McKinney, then 121 SW to Frisco. If you were to take 78 S at Farmersville for about 15 mi, you'd pass through Lavon. If you were to blink, however, you'd miss it... |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| sarvbill - 2012-06-06 6:39 AM
I also run a TPMS on my bike and asked the question a few months back on how high should the tire pressure get before I become concerned.? The general concensus was "don't worry about it".? While I don't agree with this attitude, I still don't know how much of an increase in pressure should trigger an alert.? I don't tow a trailer, but noticed that my rear tire pressure would climb as high as 51-52 PSI (I kept it around 40 PSI cold on the Dunlop E-3).? I'm now running a car tire and have found my cold tire pressure sweet spot to be between 38-40 PSI.? The interesting thing is that the highest I've seen the car tire pressure get is 45 PSI traveling at 75 MPH + on the interstate at 95 dgrees.? I don't monitor the tire temps but do keep an eye on the pressure as I have a monitor mounted on the handle bars that gives a constant readout from the sensors. Not sure what the relevance of this may be (if any), but my observations show that my CT pressure doesn't increase as much as my MT?- so I have to assume it's running cooler under the same conditions. ?
I too have a TPMS, and run 41psi cold on my E3, and it increases to the 51-52psi area when hot as well.... I've seen as high as 52.5 during the heat of the day. |
|
| |
hot rear tire when pulling trailer
