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Visionary
Posts: 2300
Georgia, west of Atlanta | I'm gonna black out my Vision and want to powder coat the wheel and tip overs. What is the best product to strip the factory coatings?? I've heard of a product called DeKote, has any one used this ?? Or know any other methods ?? | |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 785
Mt. Vernon, WASH. | You can take the wheels to a commercial blaster and choose between baking soda (works great but requires use of vinegar to completely remove the residue, so you'll smell like a skinny chicks salad dressing) or media blasting (basically plastic particles) both will take the original finish off without damaging the under surfaces in fact you could soda blast the paint off your classic car and have no worries or issues about the glass or chrome. Both methods are so common now it shouldn't be that expensive.
With sodium chloride (TURCO) being so dangerous ( basically EASY OFF oven cleaner is a very much tamed down version of the stuff)and now considered to be haz-mat, it's not used nearly as much as it was in stripping commercial airplanes. Take it from a guy who knows, one teeny speck of soduim chloride on bare skin leaves permanent scars and instantly burns like you cannot really believe, plus the fumes are deadly if not controlled.
Edited by SYNSTR 2011-07-15 3:04 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 2300
Georgia, west of Atlanta | Just to let people know the gallon jug version of aircraft paint stripper works well. Use in a well ventilated area.................
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Iron Butt
Posts: 785
Mt. Vernon, WASH. | .....and then you're stuck with 3+ quarts of dangerous, toxic haz mat that you'll never use and you can't just toss in the trash plus there's all the PPE you'll need to do it safely. Take them to a commercial stripping place.
But, it's your party............................................ | |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Who ever power coats the parts I would think can strip the parts for you. Of coarse your going to need new wheel bearings. | |
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Visionary
Posts: 2300
Georgia, west of Atlanta | No these guys don't do stripping just the coating, they don't want to mess with it. | |
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Cruiser
Posts: 112
Denver, Iowa | When we raced go-karts, I wanted my chassis re-powdercoated a different color before the 2007 season. Since our chassis is chromoly, and its structural integrity is critical to the handling of our karts, we couldn't find a media blast company near us, that could guarantee me that they would not blast any metal off of the chromoly while they were removing the powdercoat. Finally found one in South Carolina that would use a baking-soda like powder to blast the chassis...and hopefully not destroy the chassis integrity. But it would take them several hours of blasting per chassis (I had two karts). It was financially equivilent to calling my chassis manufacturer and having two new chassis custom coated by their coaters during production.
I ended up following the advice of those blasters in SC... paint remover in gel form. I bought two quarts, used long rubber gloves, apron, well ventilated area, wire brushes, wire wheel (on a Makita 4 1/2" grinder). I globbed on the gel and let it work for about 5-6 minutes. Any more time, and it would dry and not be effective. Any less time, and it didn't have enough time to work. (I don't know if this time will work for all coatings, just this coating with the brand of paint remover I was using.) After 5-6 minutes, the wire wheel zipped it right off like cheap paint. Wire brushes would reach into the hard-to-get spots. But I could only brush it for about a minute or so, since the gel would begin to dry and lose it's effectiveness. So, needless to say, with a racing go-kart chassis, times two, it took a long flippin' time! 4-5 hours each.
Afterwards, I took the two chassis to the most reputable powdercoater in our area... they do most of the John Deere work, and even some for H-D too. I told this guy what I wanted for a color...he said no problem. Shot me a price...it was a good price. Make it happen! So on my way out, I told him about all the work I went through to strip the powdercoating off, so they could recoat them my new color. He kinda chuckles at me and says, "You didn't need to go through all that! If the old powdercoating looked fine, we could've just coated over the old color and saved you the effort."
"Say what?"
Moral of the story... check to see if you even need to strip off the factory coatings. If I had to do it again, I would've smoothed out the rough edges (rock chips, fastener gouges, etc.) and had them powdercoated over the old stuff.
Just my penny's worth...
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Visionary
Posts: 2300
Georgia, west of Atlanta | Almost done with the stripping of all the powder coat pieces. The hardest piece was the drive pulley: alot of nooks and crannies there. First batch back from the powdercoater, they did an excellent job. Happy so far. | |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Don't power coat the teeth on the pulley just do the outer edge so the belt will ride in the groves correctly | |
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Powder Coat Removal