|
|
Puddle Jumper
Posts: 47
High Ridge, Mo. | Got the Vision out yesterday for the first time in 3 months. 3,800 miles on the 09. Kept in heated basement. NO REAR BRAKE. 6 hard pumps got me about 1/3 of a rear brake. Fluid 1/2 way between the lines. No sign of leaks. I will try and bleed tomorrow night when I have more time. Any thoughts? I have never seen air an issue from sitting 3 months. Factory service manual says it's air, master cylinder, bad fluid, disc. They also say to change fluid every two years. Sounds like they want to sell brake fluid.
Have a Happy Spring.
Edited by Bluegill 2011-02-21 7:32 PM
|
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | I'm using the iPhone, so it's hard to search. I seem to remember a rash of people that had the same issue. Try doing a search. If I get to a PC I'll see if I can find it. |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | A number of people have had these issues after a few winter months of being parked over the years. If the brake fluid has not ever been replaced do it. I have mine replaced every two years regardless of the miles.
The fluid loves to seek out water....and it normally finds it.
After a fluid replacement and bleed down it felt like the brakes were brand new.
Ride Safe |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | I had that happen to me the first year I stored my 08. The dealer bled the back brakes, but since the brakes are linked, it involves bleeding the center caliper on the front brakes along with the rears, and also has to be done in a specific sequence. The procedure is outlined in the service manual if you have it, or you can have your dealer do it. Mine did not charge me for it. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Not sure if this is related, but a friend had his rear pads replaced on his Vision recently. The new pads were considerably thicker than the old pads. His symptoms were virtually no rear brakes! When checking the rotor, it was extremely hot. We determined that two factors were at play. First, the calipers appeared to be somewhat canted. Apparently, the indy shop that did the pad replacement removed the caliper from its bracket without removing the bracket assembly from the bike. This is apparently a no no! The caliper must not be removed or installed on the bracket while the bracket is mounted to the bike. I ended up removing the bracket and caliper, cleaning them up, mounted them back to together properly aligned, then installed back inside the swingarm. However, the issue still was not resolved.
The second issue, and probably the most significant was that the rear brakes seemed to be dragging, which yields considerable brake fade, giving the impression of no brakes. It turns out that the brake pedal wasn't releasing fully due to the new pads. There is a measurement that must be taken between the pedal and the pedal stop. There needs to be a gap of between 1-2 mm . He had no gap at all. We had to adjust out the pedal. After that, no more problem, and the rear brake worked great.
Again, not sure if this relates to any of you, but it's something to check, especially after replacing the rear pads.
Edited by Turk 2011-02-22 10:35 AM
|
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 111
Prairie Dog Heaven, CO | Interesting. I have this issue after parking the (fairly new) bike for about 4-6 weeks. When I picked the bike up it was like this and it's like this now after a few snowy weeks. Dealer says they have bled a large number of bikes and "they all do it after sitting for a few weeks". No explanation was available as to why this happens. I'm thinking there must be air trapped in there somewhere which slowly works its way into the system?
As in our case there are no leaks or loose connections. Brake fluid is clear and clean (only about 10 moths old). |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 111
Prairie Dog Heaven, CO | PS: Search did not turn up anything for me... |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | It is apparently air in the line from the factory in a low spot that does indeed work it's way into the system. Once the brakes are properly bled once, the problem should not recur. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| I still highly advise that everyone check the gap between the brake pedal and the pedal stop. If there is no gap, your brakes are dragging and you are experiencing brake fade.... |
|
| |
|
Puddle Jumper
Posts: 47
High Ridge, Mo. | I bled the brakes as per the manual last night. No luck. Pedal goes to the stop. Dealer said the problem is either the master cylinder or in a caliper. Glad I have a 5 year warranty. Taking it to him this week. Thanks to all for your input. |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 111
Prairie Dog Heaven, CO | nohawg - 2011-02-22 10:06 PM
It is apparently air in the line from the factory in a low spot that does indeed work it's way into the system. Once the brakes are properly bled once, the problem should not recur.
I will talk to my dealer. They are willing to bleed the brakes "as often as needed" - no charge. I would think they'd appreciate having to do this only once more. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1117
Northeast Ohio | Use advanced search as normal only yields past 24 hours (or something like that). In a nutshell, the rear brakes are linked to the front calipers and the bleeding needs to be done on the fronts. Pressing the rear brake activates a single cylinder on each of the front calipers. Bleeding it this way WILL fix your issue. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1117
Northeast Ohio | Here is a link from 2009: http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=3022&sta... |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 4278
| I was think of this last nigh. I wounder if its cause the caliper is on the bottom of the rotor as a posed to being on top. If the caliper was on top then the air would all ways find the high spot. You "can't" bleed the caliper in the down position. I don't think being linked has any thing to do with it. Adjusting your pedal will not do any thing for you. Keep in mind if you change pads the pistons have to be pushed all the way back into the caliper. If your pads get worn to far you can have problems when you push the piston back in the o rings can tear or the piston can get cocked.
With a flair wrench check lines for being tight. Maybe air is seeping in. I have read with a lot of braking the fluid heats up and loose potency. Breaks can heat up with poor quality or cheap pads.
I wish i had a answer cause we shouldn't have this problem. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1117
Northeast Ohio | It has everything to do with linked brakes and the front calipers. Do an advanced search and you will see the references. We have been dealing with this for over 4 yrs now. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1117
Northeast Ohio | Yet another post: http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=6419
|
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1117
Northeast Ohio | And another: http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=6726
I am trying to help you all avoid trying to figure out what we have already learned. Something with this should be made sticky. |
|
| |
Rear brake problems