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Cruiser
Posts: 104
Corona, CA | Do you have to remove the rear wheel to pull the link to lower an 08 Vision ?
It looks like you can do it without pulling the wheel.
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Cruiser
Posts: 156
dinwiddie, va | You can get it out. But after the first one I did like that. I just removed the rear wheel. It was alot less headache then not removing it. I have done 5 since then all removing the rear. I actually did it faster removing the rear then not removing it. Your choice though. You can learn from my experience! |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| I didn't remove the rear tire. But you do have to get the rear wheel up in the air to get at the two bolts that hold the plastic plate in place. After that is done its pretty easy. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 669
Peachtree City, GA | I have done several as well - Found it easier and quicker to just pull the rear wheel. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 50
| What happens when the cantilever "tilts" to the right side (the side of the lowering link) no longer level with the shock linkage? Does this put stress on the shock? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 669
Peachtree City, GA | No more then riding two up...
Ok - with two really heavy people.
Edited by Webhair 2011-02-11 11:19 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| If you didn't know my bike was lowered you wouldn't find any problem. Like we have said with the bike being lowered you can't ride off curbs you have to watch for deep pot holes or speed bumps when two up. You have to watch out for driveways that have a drop off at the end of them. You go slow or take it at angel. Going down the road is no different then a normal bike. Yes you can't lean as far as you used to but you still get a good lean.
You just keep telling your self you have a lowered bike and slow down going over bumps or going up drive ways and before you know it, its second nature and brain is programed for being lowered. Yes you have to put a 2x4 on the floor when you put the bike on a air lift or roll it into a trailer.
As for what it does to the shock it takes away some of the travel. So if you lower it by a inch now you only have ten inches of travel. Put more air in the shocks and ride. Not enough air or to much air just adjust accordingly.
Would I do it again YES and for my riding I don't do dirt roads and when I get into washboard roads I move over. Cross country rides you might have to leave a pair of jeans home and the wife might have to leave the second jacket behind.
Lowering the bike is pretty easy and not expensive to do. Keep in mind if you lower the rear you should lower the front but you don't need to lower it as much. Adjust the headlight when your done and be cautious on your first few rides and have fun. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 156
dinwiddie, va | john frey - 2011-02-11 3:04 PM
If you didn't know my bike was lowered you wouldn't find any problem. Like we have said with the bike being lowered you can't ride off curbs you have to watch for deep pot holes or speed bumps when two up. You have to watch out for driveways that have a drop off at the end of them. You go slow or take it at angel. Going down the road is no different then a normal bike. Yes you can't lean as far as you used to but you still get a good lean.
You just keep telling your self you have a lowered bike and slow down going over bumps or going up drive ways and before you know it, its second nature and brain is programed for being lowered. Yes you have to put a 2x4 on the floor when you put the bike on a air lift or roll it into a trailer.
As for what it does to the shock it takes away some of the travel. So if you lower it by a inch now you only have ten inches of travel. Put more air in the shocks and ride. Not enough air or to much air just adjust accordingly.
Would I do it again YES and for my riding I don't do dirt roads and when I get into washboard roads I move over. Cross country rides you might have to leave a pair of jeans home and the wife might have to leave the second jacket behind.
Lowering the bike is pretty easy and not expensive to do. Keep in mind if you lower the rear you should lower the front but you don't need to lower it as much. Adjust the headlight when your done and be cautious on your first few rides and have fun.
Agreed. Stressing to be aware of the air and what loads you have. If you ride 2 up with the shock pressure set for just yourself, you will bust the inner saddlebag liners. I have stressed this to a few customers and it got the best of them. If this happens, It's still not a big deal. Ness makes a set of inner liners for lowered bike that are not cheap, but not outrageously priced. But they are very nice looking if installed correctly. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | When Victory lowered the 8-Ball Vision, they put on a different shock than the Tour Vision. Seems odd that Victory would do that if just shortening the control rod would work ok. They may have tried shortening the rod and came up with an issue when tested. There has to be a reason...maybe someone knows. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | The Ness Vision is lower also. Did they use the rod or a shorter shock? I never rode a stock Vision so I am only used to the cornering and clearance of the Ness. When I corner, my floorboards will touch before the tipovers. It's still better than any Harley! First thing I did do is buy a Ness skid plate though. It's got a few scrapes on it now.
Tom, if your lowering it AND you took the trunk off, you're going to find this bike is rock solid in the SoCal winds. Low and heavy is the key.
rode a |
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Visionary
Posts: 1436
| Do yourself a favor and order the shorter shock and stock link off the 8-Ball OR buy the shorter shock and adjust your adjustable link to the 8-ball spec's.
You CAN do the cheapo adjustable link BUT you'll be beating the hell out of the bearings in the pivot link and the swing arm. Grand total you'd be looking at about double the cost to replace those bearings over just installing the RIGHT shock. Here is the deal. The link and shock work with each other to provide a balance/tipping point at which the suspension allows the swingarm to travel SMOOTHLY through it's range. Using the adjustablelink WITHOUT down sizing the shock changes that tipping point and puts the pivot at an angle from which MORE pressure needs to be applied to create shock compression and swing arm travel. The result is pressures being exerted on the pivot and swingarm bearings they were NOT intended or designed to take. Further it creates a harsh ride with the rear tire absorbing more abuse which in turn reduces rear traction.
Yes loads of people have been running this setup for a couple years now, stupid is as stupid does (yep I know thats being insulting). Maybe it will take a little insult to get folks to consider what they are doing. The Vic engineers KNEW exactly what they were doing when they designed this link system and it took little time for some backwoods garage mechanic to figure out how to screw it up. Same holds true for the front forks. It costs a few bucks for the CORRECT parts to lower the front. Sure you can leave it stock or raise the forks in the triple clamps a little but the valving will still be WRONG to work correctly with the rear. Sure the bike looks cool lowered but how cool are you gonna look laid out on the road or broke down in your garage? A mod worth doing is worth doing RIGHT. Or do as you like, ain't my 20k being screwed with, lol..... |
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Lowering a Vision