|
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1158
Richmond, Virginia | IM totally bummed. I went out on this awesome weekend to ride the bike and the battery was totally dead. Its the first time since ive owned it that this has happened. From what I can deduce, we recently added the trunk unit and I remembered that the lid is difficult to close so I suspect that the interior light was left on and killed the battery.
So called my tech (who is out of town for weekend). He advised me to go get a 10amp battery charger. I did that and charged it for about 2 hours, then switched it down to 2 amp to maintain until
I got up this morning to check out and ride etc.
This morning here is what I found. I disconnected the battery charger then turned on the ignition key.
Nothing happened except the little oil container on the dash lit up. No power. THEN when i went to turn off the key, the center console stereo, and lighted switches lit up and wouldnt turn off. The stereo
didnt come on, but the lighted window was solid blue and the toggle switches below were lit. The only way I could get them to turn off was to disconnect the battery.
Im hoping the electrical system hasnt fried somehow. Any ideas? Guess im not riding this weekend..........ugh....... |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 492
Indianapolis, IN | VA, did you turn on the ignition at any time while the charger was connected? If so that is very risky with the new electronic control sysetms on today's bikes. Just asking. Don't know if that would be a problem or not. Side note: Based on what I've read, fast charging is damaging to batteries, especially small ones like in our bikes. I recommend only trickle charging. Regarding the trunk light, I leave my sellector switch in the off position until I need the light. This will save you the headache of accidently draining the battery. Good luck and let us know if it's something more complicated. |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 432
Gettysburg, 2008 Tour Premium | Here is a way to check the system as long as you have jumper cables. Connect your car battery up to the bikes cables without the battery connected, it sounds like the battery has shorted internally. You may be just fine. As far as hurting the system with a 10 amp charger, I don't think so, your battery has enough amperage to arc accross metal!!!
Edited by wroman 2010-09-06 9:38 AM
|
|
| |
|
Central Wisconsin | Maybe you did this already. Double check your battery connections. Make sure the terminals are super clean/tight and a star washer sandwiched between the cable end to battery post is best. Also check your connection from the battery positive cable to the relay. Good luck.
|
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1158
Richmond, Virginia | I did turn on the key to see if there was power while the charger was hooked up to the battery. I didnt try to turn on the engine, just turned it to see if the lights would power up etc. It was only on 10amp not the high test "instant start" mode. Prior to all of this I had
my battery tender on the bike for about 6-8 hours and did not have any success with that. My Victory tech told me that the battery tender was such a low power that it would not charge a fully dead battery only maintain one, thats why he instructed me to go get a 10amp charger.
First thing i did was check that the battery connections were in proper order all good.
In re- reading all of your posts I did not mention that when I initially went to start the bike, the ignition switch was NOT on. I am guessing that there is power to the trunk light even when the key is in the off position? I am not sure since ive only had the trunk a couple weeks. but
bottom line, I didnt leave the key switch on to drain the battery. Also this is my bikes original battery 2008. Im wondering if this has anything to do with just simply needing a new battery. Technician said probably not, but you never know. |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | chances are you have a need of a new battery, but I don't think that is your overall problem at the moment. But replacing it now will element issues related to the battery later, and narrow down the current problem.
I ran my battery dead 3 times over two and half years and never had a problem. Before the fuel pump failure was isolated, I replaced the battery, because on a motorcycle a weak battery can cause other problems. I was told too that the battery wasn't the culprit, but I had assurance now, especially for the trip I was taking. The point again is, replacing the battery my be a little premature, but you will stave off any problems down the road because of it.
The electronics is so sensitive, but I would be careful to jump to conclusion. If you don't want to replace the battery now, remove the battery, charge, and replace and then see what happens.
Edited by varyder 2010-09-06 10:17 AM
|
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1158
Richmond, Virginia | I just got home from running errands. Gave myself a talking to in the truck and decided that since my bike is a 08 with original battery, it wouldnt be a bad idea to just go ahead and get a new one anyway. Sounds like most of the comments concur.
Thanks everyone |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 244
Tucson , AZ | The stock batteries do not like to run all the way down. Burns the cells out. Then for some reason they wont hold a charge at all. I have an 08'
fried the battery. I recently purchased an after market. My bike sat for a 2 months and my battery ran down. Charged it up no problem.. Just get an after market battery . Your troubles will be gone. |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 404
San Antonio, TX United States | Curious to know if your charger actually is an automatic charger. Since you mentioned setting it to 10 amp and then down to 2 amp, i assume it is not an automatic adjusting charger. This item alone could have cooked the battery and ruined it. A new battery will give you peace of mind and make sure you have no other issues. The battery in your bike could just be taken to your dealer and let them keep it over night and charge it properly on the bench and then load test it first thing in the morning. I have 38k on my 2008 as of today, original battery is great. have killed it one time before with the trunk light issue and one other time by just leaving the key on like a fool. If the battery it ruined, it can show 12 VDC but still fault when put under a load. You should see that easily on your Volt meter in the dash. Good luck on what ever happens. And yes, the electronics do act really odd at times if they see anything less than 11.5 VDC. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1158
Richmond, Virginia | Not blaming the guy at all, but I went and bought exactly what my tech told me to go get. So I suppose based on that, I got the right thing.
After reading everyones posts and VaRyders suggestions, Im heading off to buy a new battery in the morning. HMD520 emailed me that
the Victory batteries basically suck. So Im going to buy another brand. Any suggestions guys? I run a lot of electronics on the bike
so Im wondering if i need a "super duty"" battery and what would that be... The owners manual tells you everything about battery
maintenance etc, but it doesnt give any specs on what type of battery when ready to replace. Thanks guys |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | First I gotta say in all the years I have been riding I have never had batteries last as long as they do in my Victory. Yuasa is a great battery.
Next.....You didn't fry anything. These bikes do strande things when they get have low voltage |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | I must just have bad luck. Mine crapped out after six months. Replaced under warranty. |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 492
Indianapolis, IN | Whichever brand you buy look for a Gel Cell battery. They cost a little more but are considered much more reliable and more rugged to boot. The take vibration and impact shock a whole lot better than the old lead acid batteries. That's why they are the battery of choice for off road vehicles. It will cost a little more but with regular use of your battery tender during the off season you should have no problem getting five or more years out of the Gel bat. Regarding my earlier comment about your trunk light. I mentioned leaving the selector switch in the off position. You commented later refering to your ignision switch. I don't know if you are aware but there is a switch on the light fixture in the trunk. You can set it to on which I would call "automatic", because is comes on when the trunk is opened. Unfortunately it will run the battery down if the plunger swith is not pushed in all the way. Some have had problems with this in the past. There is also and off position on the fixture switch which leaves the light off all the time until you turn it on. My earlier comment was referring to leaving it in this position as a layer of safety. It's easy to find in the dark should you need to turn it on. By the way you are correct in that the power is always on at the trunk light fixture regardless of the ignition key position. I think you are on the right track! Good luck! |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 1484
LaPorte,Tx. | VaParadox - 2010-09-06 6:54 PM
HMD520 emailed me that
the Victory batteries basically suck.
So a Yuasa battery is a bad battery? Hmmmm, first time I've ever heard that. |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 446
East TN | hoosiervic - 2010-09-06 10:12 PM Whichever brand you buy look for a Gel Cell battery. They cost a little more but are considered much more reliable and more rugged to boot. The take vibration and impact shock a whole lot better than the old lead acid batteries. That's why they are the battery of choice for off road vehicles. It will cost a little more but with regular use of your battery tender during the off season you should have no problem getting five or more years out of the Gel bat. Regarding my earlier comment about your trunk light. I mentioned leaving the selector switch in the off position. You commented later refering to your ignision switch. I don't know if you are aware but there is a switch on the light fixture in the trunk. You can set it to on which I would call "automatic", because is comes on when the trunk is opened. Unfortunately it will run the battery down if the plunger swith is not pushed in all the way. Some have had problems with this in the past. There is also and off position on the fixture switch which leaves the light off all the time until you turn it on. My earlier comment was referring to leaving it in this position as a layer of safety. It's easy to find in the dark should you need to turn it on. By the way you are correct in that the power is always on at the trunk light fixture regardless of the ignition key position. I think you are on the right track! Good luck!
Gel cell batteries require DIFFERENT Charging voltages if I remember right they need to charge up in the 15.5 VDC range...Lead acid is the way to go for ANY VEHICLE as they are designed for the proper charging systems...
|
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | there's nothing wrong with the battery used by Victory. I was impressed with the utility and life of it. However, like any battery they can cause problems when older. Not knowing that the fuel pump was the problem, I replaced mine to totally rule it out. Never run a motorcycle with a weak battery. Plus with the long trip planned, it gave me peace of mind. I believe my old battery would still be in use and through the winter despite the years and wear.
Edited by varyder 2010-09-07 8:22 AM
|
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 401
| kevinx - 2010-09-06 8:43 PM
First I gotta say in all the years I have been riding I have never had batteries last as long as they do in my Victory. Yuasa is a great battery.
Next.....You didn't fry anything. These bikes do strande things when they get have low voltage
Are you sure Kevin? Those cheap multiamp chargers are very dirty, and can blow out the regulator. I cooked 2 using a dirty 2/10/50 amp charger.
I'm amazed the mech would recommend a 10 amp charger when the manual clearly states not to use chargers that exceed a couple of amps.
BTW, my trunk light just reciently killed my battery, and I was able to jump start it with my car (WITHOUT THE CAR RUNNING!!!), and it fired up great and got me to work (20mi). Then at work I plugged in the 2amp battery tender. It recovered just fine with a nice, slow (8hrs), 2amp charge, done with a battery tender.
Edited by sgiacci 2010-09-07 9:30 AM
|
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 401
| dwhite28 - 2010-09-06 7:11 PM
Curious to know if your charger actually is an automatic charger. Since you mentioned setting it to 10 amp and then down to 2 amp, i assume it is not an automatic adjusting charger. This item alone could have cooked the battery and ruined it. A new battery will give you peace of mind and make sure you have no other issues. The battery in your bike could just be taken to your dealer and let them keep it over night and charge it properly on the bench and then load test it first thing in the morning. I have 38k on my 2008 as of today, original battery is great. have killed it one time before with the trunk light issue and one other time by just leaving the key on like a fool. If the battery it ruined, it can show 12 VDC but still fault when put under a load. You should see that easily on your Volt meter in the dash. Good luck on what ever happens. And yes, the electronics do act really odd at times if they see anything less than 11.5 VDC.
11.5 my butt, I see issues at 12V... Either way Victory's like thier juice good and strong or they will bitch about it. |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 1158
Richmond, Virginia | Hey guys, thanks for all the wisdom and input. Will head out tonight after work and shop for new batteries. there is a
Batteries Plus about 2 blocks away. I called them just to get some general info, the salesman asked me for the make and model of my bike and he would look up the recommended battery....uhhhhhhh" whats a Victory?? I dont have those in our listing.......
His only input was that on bikes 1000cc and up they recommend a heavy duty battery............ |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 255
New Brunswick , Canada | Go Yuasa..riding for 40 years..tried all kinds and allways came back to Yuasa..cost a bit more but outlast them all.. |
|
| |
|
Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | battery same same as a GL1800... |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 492
Indianapolis, IN | VaParadox - 2010-09-07 11:24 AM Hey guys, thanks for all the wisdom and input. Will head out tonight after work and shop for new batteries. there is a Batteries Plus about 2 blocks away. I called them just to get some general info, the salesman asked me for the make and model of my bike and he would look up the recommended battery....uhhhhhhh" whats a Victory?? I dont have those in our listing....... His only input was that on bikes 1000cc and up they recommend a heavy duty battery............ Va, interesting that the Rep at Batteries Plus didn't know anything about Victory bikes. I went to their web site and looked up their recommended battery for a Victory Vegas and this is what came up: http://www.batteriesplus.com/product/40582-X2--20L-X2-Power-AGM-Battery/558-CC/6486-Motorcycle-Batteries/132029-Victory/Vegas/1507CC-2003-to-2006.aspx This is an AGM (absorbed glass mat) a type of Gel cell battery. They do have a high grade battery that will work just fine in your Vision. Yausa is a great brand, and there are many others out there. The technology is what will provide you with an increase in life and reliability. Here is a great source of information regarding the different types of batteries and other useful battery info. http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html#3 I am adding this info from an on line battery supplier, just as reference info: http://www.batterystuff.com/batterySearch.php?theType=Motorcycle&theMake=Polaris%20Victory&theModel=Victory++All+Models&theYear=2010&m=1#result Chris
Edited by hoosiervic 2010-09-07 11:50 AM
|
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 669
Peachtree City, GA | kevinx - 2010-09-06 9:43 PM
First I gotta say in all the years I have been riding I have never had batteries last as long as they do in my Victory. Yuasa is a great battery.
Next.....You didn't fry anything. These bikes do strande things when they get have low voltage
+1 |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 353
| kevinx - 2010-09-06 5:43 PM
First I gotta say in all the years I have been riding I have never had batteries last as long as they do in my Victory. Yuasa is a great battery.
Next.....You didn't fry anything. These bikes do strande things when they get have low voltage
What Kevinx said!
BTW, a battery maintainer/conditioner (de-sulphator) is not a bad idea either, I got one for each of my Vic's, my '05 8-Ball which I got in April of '05 is still on the original battery. |
|
| |
|
Central Wisconsin | VaParadox - 2010-09-06 2:44 PM I just got home from running errands. Gave myself a talking to in the truck and decided that since my bike is a 08 with original battery, it wouldnt be a bad idea to just go ahead and get a new one anyway. Sounds like most of the comments concur. Thanks everyone When the time comes for me to buy a new battery it will be the Odyssey PC545 .
I'm running the Odyssey PC535 in my other bike and works GREAT!
Edited by Thomas 2010-09-07 4:18 PM
|
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 492
Indianapolis, IN |
Gel cell batteries require DIFFERENT Charging voltages if I remember right they need to charge up in the 15.5 VDC range...Lead acid is the way to go for ANY VEHICLE as they are designed for the proper charging systems...
The regulated output voltage of the charging system for all Vics is 14 to 14.8 volts - well within the recommended required charging voltage for most Gel Cell and AGM batteries on the market today. Recommend you do some research regarding your comment. There are numerous battery manufacturers that are producing AGM, Gel Cell, and Dry Cell technology batteries for all types of vehicles, especially motorcycles. Standard lead acid technology dates back to the early 1900's. I agree we are riding "Cadillac Crotch Rockets", so why put a "Model A" battery in it?? |
|
| |
|
Iron Butt
Posts: 742
North Orange County CA | +1 on the Odyssey
Have one in my BMW R75/5 and used them on my E-glide before I sold it. Very happy with performance and longevity. Also like not having a drip tube spraying acid on things. |
|
| |
|
Tourer
Posts: 492
Indianapolis, IN | Tarpits99 - 2010-09-07 6:41 PM +1 on the Odyssey Have one in my BMW R75/5 and used them on my E-glide before I sold it. Very happy with performance and longevity. Also like not having a drip tube spraying acid on things. +2 I'm liking the logic here. Nothing like getting down to work on the battery of your $25000 super touring bike only to find that acid seaping from the battery drip tube has corroded a bunch of important stuff including the battery box and dissolved a hole almost all the way through the front of the engine casing.  |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 101
Cold Lake Alberta Canada | +1 on the Oddesy battery mad the decomp valve adjustment on my LC1500 Suzuki a thing of the past. And for those of us that have to bow out for the winter, the cold dosn't hurt them. Major cranking amps, awsome longevity and diddly squat for maintenance. |
|
| |
|
Cruiser
Posts: 101
Cold Lake Alberta Canada | +1 on the Oddesy battery made the decomp valve adjustment on my LC1500 Suzuki a thing of the past. And for those of us that have to bow out for the winter, the cold dosn't hurt them. Major cranking amps, awsome longevity and diddly squat for maintenance. |
|
| |
DEAD Vision