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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | I thought I would just go to the guy who would know. I have an 08 and the only engine mods I've done is had my stock mufflers modified to the Atom Bombs. I am still running the stock intake plate and filter. I've had the backfiring issues like most everyone when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and from 2nd to 3rd, but usually not any other time (but I won't say never). I added the Lloyds Idle Air Valve a few weeks ago, and tweaking that helps, but has not eliminated the popping. I do believe my exhaust gaskets may be leaking a bit at the head because I see about 1/8" of sooty discoloration around the pipe at the flange so I'm not sure its actually leaking or if the discoloration is normal. The flange nuts are good and snug. Is that enough to be causing the popping? Also, after running the Atom Bombs for several thousand miles now, I pulled the plugs and changed them. The ones I took out are very sooty around the threads and the inside of the metal plug body, the electrode is clean and shows no erosion, but the insulator is bright white and show signs of excessive heat and possible detonation. I have since installed a colder set of plugs to see if that makes a difference. So far, I've noticed no difference in performance or driveability with the colder plugs, but I plan on pulling them after a couple of days to see what they look like. Do you think I need to have the dealer do a Stage 1 reflash to compensate for the lean condition, or would the Lloyds fuel controller be the better option over the stock or Stage 1 map? Or should I do both? Thanks for your input. Dan |
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Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | If it was mine I would go with a VFC, and an intake plate while I was at it. 99% of the popping on upshift can be eliminated if you hold the shift to above 2900 RPM |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | give this a little read as well http://www.vision-riders.com/articles.asp?Article=59691&fid=40 |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 25
Southern Maine | Black soot is a good indicator of an exhaust leak and a leak at the header could cause a backfire. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | ...cured mine by replacing the header gaskets and correcting a leak at the cross-over. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | Thanks everyone. Looks like I'll order gaskets and a fuel controller. There are no visible leaks at the crossover, but there is no gasket there. If it's leaking, what is the cure? |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | ...mine got crinkled and not properly put back on it went into the dealer for some early work, don't recall what now it was, but I know it required pulling the pipes. When I found it, I was pulling the entire exhaust anyways and had to reround the ends to get them to mate back up. That is all that is really needed to get a good tight seal on those pipes. After replacing the gaskets and fixing the cross-over, it stop having noises that I actually thought was unique to a Vic motor. I think the crummy Vic gaskets are leaking again and will go with the ones Lloydz sells when I change out the mufflers. My right one is shot, but carries a nice note for stock, but there is tinkling sound from where I think a baffle is rattling. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 141
| If you go to your local auto parts store you might be able to get a band clamp they are stainless steel and wide. The mating parts need to be a clean this provides a good seal at the cross over to the left muffler. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | Controller and gaskets are on the way. I'm anxious to see which cures the backfire.
Kevin, I'm sure I'll be contacting you when I get ready to set up the controller. I'll need a good starting point for the settings using a stock air box and what I assume to be basically the equivalent of a Stage 1 Level 1 exhaust. I'll be upgrading the intake plate and filter eventually, but not before I leave on a long trip in 2 weeks. I want to get the fuel issue under control before I leave. The rest can wait.
Thanks again, all. |
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Tourer
Posts: 523
seattle, wa | "I'm anxious to see which cures the backfire."
You might want to look into trading your 08 for a 10 or an 2011. There is no real cure, you can lessen the backfires by shifting around 3k RPM. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | No trading. I'm about 99% sure it's the lean condition that's mostly to blame for the backfire. I don't ever shift below 3k rpm, so thats not it. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | Ok, the fuel controller is due to arrive tomorrow so I have a question. Does anyone have a "how-to" video on this? I read the install instructions, and they're not too bad, but there are some gray areas (mostly in my head I'm sure...might be clearer when I actually have it in front of me). Does it come with a pre-set program to get you going, or does it need to be calibrated once it's installed? Next, can the exhaust gaskets be changed without taking the whole exhaust loose or does the exhaust pipes need to be partially disassembled? Thanks in advance! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | Kevin, I'm putting my controller in as soon as the package arrives. Any quick and easy setup suggestions? (see my previous post).
Thanks! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
Fargo, ND | Got the fuel controller installed today. It did take a couple of hours, the worst part of the entire install being removing the electrical connectors from the injectors recessed in the heads and getting the new ones in place. Without dropping the motor down a bit like I suspect they do when they change the cams, there is very little space to get your hand in to work the retaining clips and get it removed. Got it done though. Not even a single cut or busted knuckle! The controller settings are very straightforward and easy to change, even while riding. Using the basic setup included in the instructions, the bike immediately ran better than before the install. After a little tweaking on the road, the increase in low-end power was immediately noticeable, and performance across the entire power band is much smoother and stronger. Of course adding the controller meant readjusting the Idle Air Valve as well. I've got about 99.2% of the popping dialed out now. Runs like a new bike, and only a very occasional small pop on deceleration while downshifting, although that seems to happen after I blip the throttle to downshift like Kevin says not to do. I think just retraining my throttle habits can eliminate most if not all the popping. I still have the gaskets left to change, but will do that when I return from my trip. For now, I'm really pleased with the power and smoothness the fuel controller gave back to me. Thanks for everyone's input. |
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