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New user
Posts: 1
| As anyone who owns a black anything knows, what finish inconsistencies you can see depends entirely on light source, intensity, angle, etc. There were a few things that were not apparent indoors when I bought my 2010 Ness Vision that became glaring in direct sunlight.
The most obvious thing was that somewhere along the line, someone not very talented with a buffer worked over the right bag lid. The rear trailing surface is one giant hologram and the rest of the lid has large polish swirls.
Another mystery is that when I removed the warning label from the panel just forward of the seat, the paint underneath was actually lighter than on the rest of the bike (just the opposite of what you would expect) and there was faint spiderwebbing under the label that matched the rest of the piece, indicating the surface was polished before the label was applied.
Can anyone think of a good reason why the paint on a new bike would have to be gone over with a power buffer? I would guess maybe a misshap in the showroom that needed fixing, but the paint is a perfect match and there is no evidence of any kind of repair work, just the mysterious holograms and swirls.
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 18
| I have a black Ness 2009 and it has a poor paint job in my opinion for a $24K bike. Harleys are metal with a nice clear coat, Visions are plastic, has to be part of the problem. Buffing, hand polish finish, layers of wax, still can see the spiderweb and swirl marks. Not sure if you could wet sand it out since its plastic, doubtful, only a pro would know. | |
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Tourer
Posts: 400
| If I remember correctly, all bikes are buffed at the factory before they leave. To me, it sounds like there was a paint defect, meaning a spec of dirt, fish eye, clear coat run, ect. that was buffed out. If the clear coat is soft, you can leave a hologram appearance or even burn marks. I worked at a plastic mold injection with a paint line for over a year. Black paint was a complete nightmare when it came to paint defects and trying to buff them out. | |
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Visionary
Posts: 3204 Memphis | One of the magic bullets around here has been Liquid Glass. The original clearcoat on the '08's was notoriously soft and Teach turned us on to the Liquid Glass. I remember leaving a fingerprint in the clearcoat from closing the i-Pod lid or the fuel door. My 3/4 length jacket used to rub on the center console, right in front of the seat. I got the LG and applied as directed. I built up 3 layers. I let each layer cure in the sun a few hours and then waited a day or two for the next layer. Thinner is better with this stuff. When you set it out in the sun to cure, it fills in all the swirl marks and surface imperfections. Once it gets back in the shade and sets, it is amazingly hard. First layer, no big difference. Second layer, hmmm. By the third layer, you will be blown away. It's around $20/can at auto parts stores but I think you should give it a shot before spending big bucks on a pro. I add two layers every summer. Now is the perfect time to use it and let it cure. If there is something under the clearcoat, it won't help. | |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244 Tucson , AZ | Try meguiars NXT . Its in a purple bottle. easy to work with. the paint from the factory is really soft and has a tendency to scratch easy. If it does not work .... try 3m dark glaze first, then meguiars, Good Luck | |
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