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Tourer
Posts: 446
East TN | Alright let the fun begin....I am planning on installing my new IAC from Lloydz this weekend (suppose to rain all weekend) A couple of questions before I start; - How do you remove the wedge where the IAC goes? (I haven't looked to see)
- Did anyone ever figure out if the set screw was at the starting point or do you have to bottom it out prior to making the 1 to 2 turns for the IAC adjustment?
- How had of an area is it to get to with fat fingers?
- About how long should this take?
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Tourer
Posts: 415
| I had mine done by my dealer the other day. Was outside bullshitting with some other guys for a few minutes when they took it in.
When I went inside, they were putting the wedge back on, so not very long to install.
I think the screw is already set at the starting point.
My bike was warm when they installed and set it up.
The next time I started it cold, it would not idle. Needed to back the screw out just a little bit more.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) |
1. If you're referring to the cheese wedge, just pull it off. Only spring clips holding it on. Pull off both cheese wedges to get more light in there.
2. Don't rely on the adjust screw being in the correct position. Each bike will need a slightly different adjustment. Back it out 2 or more turns from fully seated (after 2 turns it has no affect anymore). Start bike and let idle for 45~60secs. Turn screw in until tach starts to show drop in RPM. Back it out until original RPM is obtained. The final setting will be somewhere in between. From what I experienced so far, the best setting is turned in as far as possible without any loss of idle RPM. I will write a review after I get more miles on it.
3. Fat fingers will make it difficult to connect the new hoses to the original plastic nipples. Get a pair of 90 degree long nose pliers (the longer the pliers the better).
4. It will take 2 hours if you are being very careful. If you are quite qualified as a mechanic it shouldn't take more than 1 hour.
Be sure to get the 3 plastic nipples pushed into the new rubber hoses as far in as they will go. It's easy to think they are on all the way when they are really only slightly inserted. The large plastic nipple already had a white insertion indicator mark on mine. I pushed it in to this mark. I added marks myself to the small nipples before installing. Without the marks it would be very difficult to see how far the nipple slid into the hose. It's a tight space.
Good luck.
Edited by victoryvisiontour 2010-04-23 10:01 AM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) |
There is a sensor sticking out of the back of the front cylinder. It has two light gauge wires that were pinched between the sensor and the IAV hose. I was afraid this would eventually wear through the wires. I had to twist the plastic nipples around until the IAV hose has not touching the sensor anymore.
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | I finally got mine adjusted right. Took about 4-5 times. On the cold start. Now I believe its correct |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | The IAV might need adjusted a few times as Arkainzeye stated above to reach the optimum setting.
Make the IAV visually easier to adjust by putting a mark on the adjust screw. Take note of where that mark is before adjusting. That way you can go back to that setting if the new setting is not better and vice versa. Also, if you bump it while performing maintenance you will be able to see if you accidently turned it.
(IAV (centerpunch).JPG)
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 IAV (centerpunch).JPG (42KB - 0 downloads)
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Tourer
Posts: 523
seattle, wa | We await your review. |
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Tourer
Posts: 576
, IA | me too> i think i get more popping with this unit on> just to get the bike started i needed to turn the screw counter clock wise 4 1/2 turns (i started with the screw turned all the way in> clock wise< sure hope someone comes out with a start to finish install maybe i'm missing something |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | If you are getting more popping then you might have a leak at one of the hose connections. The hoses are difficult to push on all the way. And, since the hoses are longer than stock, it causes a bending moment on the plastic nipples. I found that if the nipples are not pushed in as far as they will go, the bending moment will cause the hose to become oblong and leak.
The IAV acts similar to the air mixture screw on a carburetor. Basically, adjust it for the best idle. If you still get popping, turn it in 1/4 turns at a time until the popping goes away.
I'm still playing with the adjustment to see if there is anything else I can learn from it. I'll post a review soon. |
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Tourer
Posts: 576
, IA | great! keep it up, i'll go look |
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Tourer
Posts: 576
, IA | nope no bent hoses or lose hoses
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