Here is the detailed how-to. WARNING: this is NOT for the faint of heart - basically, you have to re-wire the signal/brakes (including adding a signal feed to the inner front sockets):

The Vision has qty10 3157 (two front and three back per side) main signal/turn bulbs. It is factory wired such that, for the front, only the outer bulbs are used for signalling, and, for the back, only the top bulb is used for signalling and the bottom bulb is used for braking. The middle bulb will turn off if you are signalling; otherwise, it is an additional brake lamp.

For rear LEDs, purchase from eBay qty3 pair of V-LEDS RED 92 M-SMT TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT BULBS 3157 3156 VS, at $70/pair. These have qty80 radial firing and 12 forward firing high intensity leds.
For front LEDs, purchase from eBay qty2 pair of V-LEDS AMBER 92 M-SMT PARK/TURN BULBS 3157 3156 VS, at $70/pair. These have qty80 radial firing and 12 forward firing high intensity leds.

For sequencing controllers, purchase directly from www.webelectricproducts.com qty2 item STS-2S for the front (two lamp sequencing) for $50 each and qty2 item STS-1 for the back (three lamp sequencing) for $70 each.

For the diodes, purchase from eBay 1N4001 General Purpose Rectifier Diodes, 1 amp, 50V, 10pcs for $1. The cathode is the silver striped side; this is the output side of the diode. Arrange five of them in parallel - ensuring that the silver stripe was on the same side for all - and then twist the leads together at each end. By purchasing qty10, you now have created two 5A rated diode blocks (one for each of the turn signal feed wires). These are needed to ensure that no backfeed from the brake signal traverses into the electronic signal module (note - these bikes use a $200 module rather than a flasher).  Of course, you could always look up the factory part number for the two 6A-rated diodes that are already on the bike (protecting from cross-feed whenever the factory circuitry shuts down the middle lamp on the active blinking side) and just purchase two more ($34 each) for use in protecting the two signal wires from backfeed by the brake signa.l. You still need the original two diodes to protect the brake signal from turn signal backfeed.

On the front, remove the turn signal feed wire from the outer socket and install it into the same location on the inner socket. Tap the red wire of the STS-2S controller off of the turn signal feed wire. The black wire of the STS-2S controller taps off of the black ground wire (either socket). The white wire of the controller is run to the turn signal feed location on the outer socket.  Repeat for other side.

The back gets more complicated; on the left side:

Top light: Cut the blue turn signal wire 4 inches from the upper socket and connect the socket side to the blue wire of the STS-1 controller. Add a diode (solder at the anode side) to the blue turn signal feed.

Mid light: Cut the white wire 4 inches from the middle socket and connect the socket side to the white wire of the STS-1 controller. Cut the black/orange grounding wire of the middle socket and connect the socket side to the black wire of the STS-1 controller and also to the black ground wire of the bottom socket.

Do the same for the right side Top and Mid lights (note: turn signal is blue/pink).

Bot light: Cut the W/PK wires 4 inches from both of the bottom sockets.

There are two diodes coming off of the W/PK brake signal feed - one for each side.  The cathode (output) white wire of each diode was originally connected to the white wire on the middle lamps and the anode (input) W/PK wire of each diode was originally connected to the W/PK wire of the bottom lamps. The anodes are now disconnected from the lamps, due to the above cut, and the cathodes are also disconnected, due to your earlier cutting of the white wires of the middle lamps.

There are two relays which are located on the right side of the bike, about where an imaginary line drawn between the passenger footrests would cross the bike frame.
If you had previously performed the modification to cancel the killing of the middle lamp when turning and braking, then you need to reconnect those G and H pins at the plug.

Cut the W/PK wire beyond the B pin at the plug. Cut the black wire from pin 30 on the LH turn relay where it ties into the F pin, and then connect this loose black wire to the plug side of the previously cut W/PK wire on the B pin.  Move the BK/OR wire from pin 87A of the LH turn relay and connect it also to pin 30 (this puts the brake feed onto pin 30 of both relays, with minimal wiring disturbance). Connect the loose end of the previously cut W/PK wire to pin 87A of the LH turn relay.

At the left rear of the bike, connect the white cathode side of the diode to the W/PK bottom left socket wire. Also connect the cathode of the turn signal feed diode and the red wire of the STS-1 controller to the bottom left socket wire.

At the right rear of the bike, connect the W/PK right socket wire to the loose end of the BK/OR wire from pin87A of the RH turn relay (which is disconnected at the rear of the bike because you cut this ground wire loose from both of the middle lamp sockets earlier).  Also connect the cathode of the turn signal feed diode and the red wire of the STS-1 controller to the bottom right socket wire.

Now, the original brake feed still feeds – through the original diode - the left STS-1 controller (though now it is first routed through the LH turn relay).  The BK/OR wire now feeds – through the other original diode – the right STS-1 controller (note that it starts as the W/PK brake feed and then is routed through the RH turn relay).    The Auto Cancel Module and Cruise Control are both protected by diodes on both the signal and brake feeds from any back-feed or cross-feed.  And the brake feed to the active turn signal side will be disabled - giving priority to the turn signal.

You now have dual sequential front turn signals, triple sequential (from bottom to top) rear turn signals, and three per side brake lights - with turn signal override of braking (only to the active side).

Note that there is a TREMENDOUS variety in the light output from different LEDs on the market today: wide vs narrow angle, radial vs. top mounted, miniature surface mount vs discrete lamps, 12V rated (contains internal voltage drop resistor) vs 3V rated, same color as the lens cover vs. white output, etc etc. I have evaluated and also received feedback from others on quite a few before making my above recommendations.