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Iron Butt
Posts: 725 Reno County, KS | I've always been a big fan of solder splicing with heat-shrink. It's part of what I do for a living. I'm getting sick of it LOL. No but honestly, between the LED lighting, 2-way alarm, relays, VFCIII etc; I think its starting to get a little "Frankenstein" under my seat and fuel tank access panel. I still have a relay with upgraded horn, relay for HID switching, NOS relay and trailer isolation harness that I am going to install. Damn, I'm gonna need a bigger alternator soon! With this in mind I started looking online for another quick yet reliable product. Here's the link: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html I hate the old splice taps becuase of the problems I've had from them when companies use them for trailers, wiring harnesses, etc. Eventually they eat the wire in half from vibration or they corrode. I've never seen these Posi products before but they look promising.
Thanks,
-Will
PS does anyone remember if the wiring AWG under the panel or trunk? I think it's 16 or 18 but can't remember for sure. I'm away from home or I'd just go check. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1350
| Those look great for building my prototypes when I get back to work. I would think you would want to Loctite the threads to use on the bike? I sent the link to my coworker Jim, Senior Electronics Engineer, and asked if he has heard of these. Get a hand full of sizes and just keep swapping them out.
Thanks for the link.
They have a military link. Have to see if they passed all the testing. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3204 Memphis | I use them all the time. They get bulky but a big advantage is you can unscrew the tap used for a negative ground and add up to three wires into that one tap for a common ground. The Vision wiring is 18 ga for the most part. |
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Tourer
Posts: 575 Spirit Lake IA "Birthplace of Victory Motorcycles" | Yup . . . they work great! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 742 North Orange County CA | Used them when wiring my new Clearwater Driving Lamps. Pretty simple, but effective. +1 on the bulky. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 725 Reno County, KS | Thanks for the responses and the gauge info too. With all the junk that I've got going on under my access panel and seat, I'm gonna rip it out and start over. Probably run a fused, thick 10 or 12 gauge wire from the battery and one from the switched accessory back to the tail lamp section. Then I'll have a constant hot and switched "backbone" that I can tap where ever I want/need without about killing all my oem wires with taps. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763 Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | Will,
I am a fan of soldering too. Posi-Taps came with my Flash2Pass garage door opener. I was going to toss them in the trash until I realized how difficult it was to get to the highbeam headlight wire. There was no room to solder. I used the Posi-Tap and it made the job simple. Not sure how long it will last. I wonder if the junction between the wire and Posi-Tap needle will eventually corrode like the old style splice connectors you mentioned.
Summary: Posi-Taps made the job easier, but it's too soon to determine longevity. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3204 Memphis | If the tap is going to be exposed to the elements you could always put a dab of dielectric grease in the cap where the wire will cradle into and when the pin taps it it should stay pretty sealed up. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3773 Pittsburgh, PA | i used them on my last bike. what i liked about them was. when i traded the bike in i was able to remove whatever i installed without any visible sight of wire damage and nothing perm... I wired my TFI on my kawasaki 2000 that way. real nice if you change your mind about something. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 725 Reno County, KS | SongFan - 2010-01-12 11:18 AM
If the tap is going to be exposed to the elements you could always put a dab of dielectric grease in the cap where the wire will cradle into and when the pin taps it it should stay pretty sealed up.
You read my mind! Ha. I was just thinking about this morning. Ordered some kits and a bunch of the 12-18awg taps. Thanks again. This is going to be alot easier now! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1350
| If you are going to start all over I would suggest adding a new fuse block. I checked and my link is on my work computer and I don't return to work till Feb. Do a quick search at TheVMC.com for fuse block if not there then try TheVOG.com. Sorry I can't be more helpful. hey maybe someone here has that link? :P |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 725 Reno County, KS | It must be on thevmc.com. I searched the vog.net and came up with nothing close. Don't wanna pay to register with other. I'd never use it... Thanks though. |
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