|
|
Tourer
Posts: 432
Gettysburg, 2008 Tour Premium | Just came back from a week long tour loaded two up and I have a few question in getting the Lloyds controller set correctly. First off I did have the S1/L2 pipes and download installed a couple of month's back. I installed the Lloyds intake plate and then the controller about a moth before the trip. Spent some time getting a feel for the tuning and would like to say when you add the weight of passenger and belongings and a rack bag tuning seems to become a little more critical. I tried to take my cues from the examples in the intalation instructions. I would like to add the bike would run without pinging having the intake plate without the fuel controller so even though the bike had the lean running symptoms (jerky on-off throttle response) it still would not ping. Now getting to my 'issue'. Before I take it to the dealer and have them remove the S1 download and start for scratch hear is what I have settled on and what questions I have.
1) I have settled on 3 1/2 lights for the green position, any more and the bike bogs and less and overall power is less especially at HWY speeds. This doen't seem to change by changing the Yellow (accel fuel) and the Yellow fuel cut point witch is yellow/blue.
2)With the above green setting the bike would not run "clean" and lower in town speeds and acclel would not be 'sharp' or instant. I bean addressing the yellow accel fuel position and lowering this setting helped alot and fuel milage began to go up along with power. The best HWY power for the yellow position is 2 lights. With this getting off the HWY and driving the lower spped hilly roads near my house the bike doesn't seem as strong and needs to be wound out. It sound a ltlle ratty at lower speeds. I need to add it runs really good on the HWy though.
3) All the above was with the yellow/blue set at 5 1/2 lights. I am thinking going one light higher hear (6) and going back to 2 1/2 light in accel fuel.
4) My gut feeling is the S2 exhaust is a joke and I do not believe it was designed with any performance goal in mind and it probably hurts midrage performance in the long run. My issues are with part throttle low speed performance and I am thinking of doing one of a couple of things.
a) pulling the S2 exhaust baffles and wrapping over the openings. I wonder about this for a number of reasons. My example is the Fat Cat 2-1 exhaust for Harley. They make two different baffles one normal and one most people refer to as the "quiet" baffle. D&D calles this the "wrap" baffle and it is the same baffle just wrapped with packing. But notable is the fact that the quiet baffle runs better that the non-wrapped baffle and has much better bottom end. Most people believe it is because of better scavaging at low and mid speeds.
b) Installing the stock mufflers back on with the baffle plates punched out. Lloyd actually suggested this to me and looking at the inside it looks like it might be a good choice. The exhause exits into what lookes to be a 3" diameter chamber and restricts down to a 1 1/2 inch tube around mid way. I am thinking this would really even out the mid range and pick up the 2,500 to 3,500 performance.
I know this is a lot of info but looking for any suggestions. | |
| | |
Tourer
Posts: 523
seattle, wa | Here's what my settings are.
Green light-1
yellow light-3
red light-2
green/blue lights-1 and 8
yellow/blue lights-4,5 and 8
red/blue lights-5,6 and 8
I have only played with the green, yellow and red settings. The power seems to be ok, it takes longer to warm up now, it stumbles a lil bit until its warm. My fuel mileage sucks! I have been getting 35MPG.
On a positive note, it doesn't pop as much as it did. (even though we all know it shouldn't pop at all)
I have the S1 exhaust.
I don't know why the #8 light flashes on the g/b,y/b and the r/b.
Damn, this is getting confusing! hehe | |
| | |
Visionary
Posts: 1340
Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | Ron
turn your green up to 2.5>3
Red to 1, or fast flash[off]
Green Blue fast flash[off]
Yellow blue to 5.5
That will prolly bring your millage back up
| |
| | |
Tourer
Posts: 523
seattle, wa | OK, will do. Thanks for the help, Kevin. I haven't forgotten about emailing the results of my dyno run yet, I just gotta get off my lazy butt and do it. Ron | |
| | |
Tourer
Posts: 432
Gettysburg, 2008 Tour Premium | OK, yesterday I pulled the S2 pipes the baffles and wrapped over the slots in the bafffles with 2 layers of that heavy aluminum heat duct tape. On first starting and riding I thought that the sound was terrible. But the Vision did its adaptive learning thing and it is not much different than stock as far as sound. It runs better. It is much more linear in power and although you can run down to below 2,000 RPM just putting through town it comes on the pipe at a consistant 2,400 rpm. Popping is far less and milage has improved. Green fuel setting is still 3 1/2 and yellow is still at 2. I have setteled at 5 lights for the yellow blue and it seems since the baffle holes are blocked there seems to be no real problem finding the right settings. I still believe a different baffle would offer superior performance but I am happy with the bike now.
Walt | |
| | |
Puddle Jumper
Posts: 16
Oregon | Aluminum heat duct tape? Awesome workaround! I could of used you $700 ago.
How difficult would it be to remove the tape or repuncter the holes if I didn't like it or want to experiment by covering just some of the holes. How long will it last?
S1/L2s suck! I knew as soon as I put the S1/L2's on, drove it, and pulled the baffle out that something was wrong with the design. As with stock exhaust, my biggest gripe is lack of throttle response. The good news... without the baffles in the S1/L2s, my throttle response significantly improved. The bad news... low-end suffered and it was too loud and echoey (because of the big diameter pipe). But it proved to me the baffle was the culprit. Too much space between the baffle and the outer pipe. I had the baffles modified, cutting out the perferated portion of the bafffle and replacing it with (welding in) a straight pipe. Not as loud as no baffle but still too loud. Basically straight pipes. Throttle response was ok but low end still suffered. I inserted Thunder Monster Quality Quiet baffles 7" in from the end. I little quieter, a little more low end, and throttle response was acceptable. After driving it for a while, I decided low end and noise were unacceptable. When I pulled the baffles, the outer surface the baffle tube around where the Thunder Monster baffles were mounted, had "blued". That means it must have gotten really really hot in the spot. I didn't understand if that was just the material (steel tubing) used in modifying the baffle or something was seriously flawed with my design. I opted out of the whole thing and bought a $econd set of S1/L2 pipes (cheap on eBay) just so I could have the original baffles. Ouch!
Now (1 year later) I'm so tired of the crappy S1/L2 performance (with VFCIII and dyno'd by Lloyd himself), I was ready to buy a set of D&D pipes. But this aluminum tape thing sounds intriguing. It's different than actually replacing the baffles with a smooth pipe as, even though the holes are blocked, their cut metal protrudes down into the tube, hopefully causing enough air disturbance and thus back pressure. Looking at the baffles from my Kingpin's Drag Pipes, the spiral pattern perferations are very similar but there is a concentric 1/8" (or less) space between baffle and the exhaust pipe itself, a trapped area the length of the (12" baffle for the exhaust flow to bounce around in. So ideally, an enclosure around the S1/L2 baffle's spiral perferations, with a slight air gap, should theoretically perform similar to my Drag Pipe baffles. And my Drag Pipe baffles, with the cats removed, perform nicely.
I think Victory went lazy or cheap designing the S1/L2 baffles.
Edited by PatMcQ 2011-06-13 1:49 PM
| |
| |
|
getting VFC set correctly