Starting to have problems with the clutch master cylinder. Wondering if anyone has a solution or found the rebuild kit.
I've been looking and was about to pull the trigger on a new silver clutch assembly at almost $300, but apparently the part is NO LONGER AVAILABLE. So, we are now down to the nitty gritty to see what we are gonna do, if we are gonna keep the classics on the road.
What ya, know? I have sent emails to Rylan at the Vic Shop, no response yet, kinda thought i would have by now.
Email to Nissin. Email to LLOYDZ. Thinking about heading up to the local NAPA and see if they are smart enough to figure out if there is a kit for it or substitute.
Been a while since people have posted, either they have gotten rid of them all or they are riding Indian and these are now their showpieces.
Posted 2020-10-08 10:51 AM (#193053 - in reply to #193052) Subject: RE: Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Posts: 1625 Jasper, MO
I do not have the answer to your question. However, you might try calling Rylan's shop, since your email may have gotten lost in the clutter. He is pretty good about answering the phone. There has to be a crossover for the master cylinder, probably from a Honda or other brand of bike.
It seems everybody has gone to Facebook, where they keep asking the same questions over and over again and getting mostly bad advice from people who have no idea what they are talking about. Suggestions to use the vast resources of information on this site and the VMC site are usually met with derision. I don't go to the Facebook pages much. Too many idiots.
I'm still riding both my Victorys, one a 2000 SC and the other a 2008 Vision.
Posted 2020-10-08 2:11 PM (#193054 - in reply to #193052) Subject: Re: Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Posts: 2026 Brighton, TN
Hey Ronnie, I would like to get another vision to mod, I would hate to mod my classic, but then i would probably feel the same about it. But, always wanted to do the cams, filters, tuners, etc. The supercharger on the vic cross country really has my attention, not that it will happen, but i love it.
So, far I haven't seen a crossover. But you sure would think so.
What I have noticed, is that the clutch arm by the primary, isn't pulling the slave cylinder all the way out. I can move it by hand and pull away from bike, which moves the clutch handle further out. I don't remember what is under there that puts the pressure on the arm. May have to pull the primary cover to see. Unless there is a spring somewhere that makes that move.
Thanks for the reply, good to see you still have a vision and a SC. My oldest just sold his SC 2000 model so he go get a cafe style or bobber type. I thought about buying it from him. He wanted to much, and managed to sell for 2900.
Posted 2020-10-08 11:31 PM (#193055 - in reply to #193054) Subject: Re: Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Posts: 1625 Jasper, MO
I bought both my bikes new. I had Rylan do the cams and top filter (Lloydz) about 10 years ago. A month after doing that, I had Lloyd Greer reprogram my ECU. He improved the timing curve, fuel delivery curve, and raised the rev-limiter to 6400 in all 6 gears. Those three things really woke the bike up and made a great bike even better. It runs like they should have from the factory.
Just a thought about your clutch. Have you tried flushing the fluid and replacing it?
Posted 2020-10-09 5:50 AM (#193056 - in reply to #193052) Subject: Re: Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Posts: 2026 Brighton, TN
Ii wanted to do all those mods, soccer and life was in the middle of it. I rode with songfan, after he did came, filter, and a vfc, I think. He walked me, once his cams got active and was gone. I dont really ride that spirited, so convinced myself didnt need it. But now feelin the need for speed.
I did, I started with the clutch fluid first. That didnt move anything, but as the bike warms the throw at the shift lever gets a little further.
Posted 2020-10-09 11:40 AM (#193057 - in reply to #193056) Subject: Re: Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Posts: 1625 Jasper, MO
Rereading your comments, I note that you said that the slave cylinder doesn't fully retract unless you pull it back by hand. Also, you said that doing that causes the master cylinder to fully retract.
To me, that sounds like the problem in not in the master cylinder itself, or the hydraulic part of the system, but possibly in the clutch itself, or whatever is supposed to cause the slave cylinder to fully retract. I have never had my Vision apart, but I have had the primary cover off my SC when I did the charging system upgrade. On it, the clutch activating arm is free floating and the clutch springs are what do the retraction.
This makes me wonder if you have wear somewhere, either in the actuating arm, or the clutch spring or clutch plates. I do know that clutch wear on a cable operated bike, whether a Victory or any other brand, requires one to adjust the cable to compensate. There is no adjustment on a hydraulic clutch that I am aware of. I do know that on our Visions, the clutch is operated by means of a rack and pinion, that is operated by the slave cylinder. The arm that you moved by hand is the pinion, and it pushes the pushrod that has a rack machined into it. The pushrod then pushes against the diaphragm spring. There are, of course, retaining clips in there also. I'm no expert. A call to Rylan, Lloyd, or Kevin would be my suggestion.
The cams really wake a Vision up, especially in the range between 3500 and 6000 RPM. Reprogramming the ECU goes a long way towards getting the most out of them. Back in the day, sending the ECU to someone to have it reprogrammed was the only real effective option. Piggyback tuners like the VFC and PCV do help some, but they are limited in what they can do. I initially had a VFC installed with the cams, and it helped a lot, but it became redundant after getting the ECU reprogrammed. ECU reprogramming is more effective. Tuning technology has advanced considerably in the past few years. If I was going to do one today, I would get the cams, top filter, and then have a Maxximus remote tune done. There is no longer any need for piggyback tuners. Save your money on them and go directly to the Maxximus tune after getting the cams and filter installed. Specify raising your rev-limiter to 6400 RPM in all six gears as part of the tune. This will allow you to shift at 6000 RPM without hitting the rev-limiter. Shifting at 6000 keeps you in the most powerful range of the cams, as you make your shifts, and results in the quickest acceleration. As far as roll-on power, the cams pull hard all the way up, but really come alive above 4000. When you hit 4500, you can literally feel the pull getting even stronger. Incidentally, 4500 is where the stock cams start giving up the ghost. The difference between stock cams and Lloydz cams is dramatic.
You can expect a 30% increase in power with cams, filter, and a tune. Your stock exhaust is fine at those power levels,if you still have one. It won't hold you back. I've kept my stock exhaust because this is a long range touring bike, and I like it quiet on long trips. It also makes for a sleeper, which I personally enjoy. No one expects a stock looking and sounding bike to be that fast. It's a lot of fun blowing past your buddies' Goldwings ( first generation GL1800) after they have been trashtalking your Victory. They read the magazine reports and believe they have 15 horsepower on you, which they do, if you're stock. With the cams and tune, the tables are turned. You now have 15 horsepower over them, and as far as they can see and hear, you're still stock. Fun.