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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 12
| Short version: my 2013 Vision (54K miles, Pwrcmd V/autotune, touring cams) won't start. Fuel pump doesn't prime (no high-pitched whine when turning the ignition"on" (switch "on" also)). Battery is good. Kill switch is good (starter not activated when kill switch is "off"). Fuses and circuit breaker are good. Looked for cracked hoses around throttle body. Did not see anything wrong. Starter turns engine over strong.
Any help on how to troubleshoot/verify the fuel pump is bad? I asked a Vic mechanic and he mentioned checking fuel pump current draw. I know how to measure current draw with an ammeter. However, I don't know anything about checking fuel pumps or what the spec is for the current draw.
More detail: been having a rough idle for a couple weeks. Engine would idle at 800-900 rpm. Engine ran good at other speeds (no stumbling, good power), except for idle. I put Stabil in the tank to help if bad fuel. I changed the spark plugs. Neither helped. After riding today, I filled up with fuel. Engine started without problem leaving gas station (assume fuel pump primed okay, as I would notice the absence of the priming noise). Rode home. Turned off the engine. That's the last time the engine started. Everything else "seems' to be okay, bike turns over strong, all lights work. I have verified fuses are good, also swapped fuses with spares. I have swapped the circuit breakers. I have replaced the circuit breakers with fuses. No help. One quirkie thing did happen but I don't see how it is related. My iPod sounds like it's in a tunnel when playing through the fairing speakers. Disconnected iPod. Pump still doesn't prime. Rest of the sound system works as it should.
I can here a very faint low pitched noise from the fuel pump when I turn the ignition on. The low pitched noise occurs when I would expect to hear the pump priming and last as long.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
DFW Texas
2013 Vision
Edited by MikeVV 2017-02-19 9:35 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1632
Jasper, MO | It sounds like your fuel pump has gone bad.
The current draw should be 5 amps maximum. More than that indicates a stuck pump. There is a pressure port under the cheese wedge. Pressure should be 49 PSI. Fuel flow should be 11 ounces in 30 seconds.
Ronnie |
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Cruiser
Posts: 50
Virginia Beach, VA | Check the fuel pump current draw as stated by Ronnie. If over 5 amps, pump bad. If under 5 amps and you have good fuel pressure, then check the ignition system. The ignition is on the same relay and breaker as the fuel pump. Check fuel pump amp draw and output pressure 1st. I changed out my fuel pump 5 months ago, was popping the breaker and shutting me down. pump was drawing 10.5 amps. No good. I also have a 13 Vision. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 27
| Hopefully you have access to a shop manual. I also had a fuel pump problem and after some research found an easy way to check operation of the pump. It's the same manner in which you check current draw, just without a meter. Pull relay and short with a paper clip across pins 30 and 87. You do this with ignition off. Pin 30 has 12 volts and pin 87 goes to fuel pump. If fuel pump is working you will hear it run for a couple of seconds. Of course if you have a meter to check current draw that is the best way, but if you short the two points you will know immediately if the pump is operational. I ended up having to replace my fuel pump, not a fun job. The pump motors have brushes and mine evidently had a bad spot. Once I took the old fuel pump out I hot wired it and if I tapped the side of the motor with a screw driver it would run. I wanted to just replace the motor, and as I recall the motor was a Bosch made in China. I was trying to find a brushless motor to replace it with but at the time could not find one. Had to buy a whole new fuel pump. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| this will work for you. auto store rents tester
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCOJWC2Xrs8 |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| you have to pull the right front panels. No way around it
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 IMG_20160715_123223992.jpg (34KB - 2 downloads)
open hole.jpg (225KB - 2 downloads)
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| when you put pump in you have to push down on it filter face back of tank. ebay has them
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(what-is-a-fuel-pump.jpg)
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12993407_1226531304041117_2550518814405636861_n.jpg (23KB - 3 downloads)
what-is-a-fuel-pump.jpg (56KB - 1 downloads)
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Cruiser
Posts: 50
Virginia Beach, VA | It sure would be easier to remove the pump with all that fairing removed. I was able to remove the mirror, speaker and loosen up the turn signal light assembly and use the speaker hole to remove and install the pump. Through the speaker hole. You have to compress the pump and wiggle things a bit. Be patient. I practiced with the old pump, removing and installing it while waiting on the new pump to come in. It took me just 2 hours to then remove the old pump and install the new one, test, prime, run motor, test again and then put it all back together. I removed the windshield also. Get a new seal for the pump mounting flange. Follow the service manual instructions for proper pump installation and bolt torque. New pump tested at 4.3 amps, under 5 amps is good. Have put a couple thousand miles on it since and tested the pump again several days ago and is reading 4.1 amps.
Have fun. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 207
| The Vic shop does rebuilds, don't forget about them. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 12
| Appreciate the replies. Very helpful! Pictures are great, too.
Mike |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| The Vic Shop only rebuilds early ones |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 12
| Wanted to give an update. I verified 12v was present for 2 seconds on the harness connector. I put a external 12v source on the fuel pump connector. Pump didn't activate. Took the pump out of the bike and put 12v to the connector. On the 5th or 6th try, after fiddling with the connection, the pump came to life. Put the pump back in the tank. Turned the key. Heard the pump prime but it didn't sound right. Sounded like the pump was laboring. Tried it a second time. Pump wouldn't prime. Took the pump out and tried the 12v again. Pump was DEAD. Bought and installed a new pump. Pump primes and bike starts like it should. Buddy of mine lent me a pressure tester. Figure since I had the tester, I'd do a pressure test. Tried doing a pressure test. The hose was touching IAC bracket causing the hose on the tester to be in a small bind. When I turned the key, fuel shot out of the hose fitting (not the connection to the schrader valve) impressively. Those of you who have done the pressure test, do you loosen the IAC bracket to allow the tester hose to not be touching the bracket? or maybe, the hose on the tester I am using is too cheap? |
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