A few months ago I purchased a kit that does this. I got it at Randy's in Huntley. It was the last one he had on the shelf. But anyways...I can't find it anywhere, I think its at work, so will have to wait till Monday to get the details off the label, such as who makes it and the part numbers and everything. It is a universal kit, not Victory. I think it ran around $50 or so.

Randy has this same kit installed on his Vision. I talked to the mechanic that installed it. He said its a pretty basic straightforward install and I should budget about two hours or so. I'm going to install it within the next few weeks. He said there wasn't a need for a dual filament bulbs setup. I think he said the kit basically runs a reduced voltage to the running lamps and then runs full voltage for brake lamps and the turn signal was a basic on-off operation.

Give me till Monday and I'll get the info off this kit.

As far as turn signals in the mirrors there is a company that does this. I think there name is Muth or Muthe or maybe Mueth? They are based in Wisconsin. Do some googling and you will find thier site. Or....wait....here ya go http://www.kwmuth.com/

Len Rhymes - 2008-11-15 7:03 PM Do a search for lights. Tim S a V/R member already did this on his bike about 4 months ago.

Found Tims post about doing this, but I think I'm a little confused though. It appears that he used a module to run a LED strip that he installed on the trunk. But he isn't using this module to do anything with the existing trunk lamps...yet. He mentions needing to modify the existing lamps housings to accept different sockets.

Here is Tim's post http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1511&start=1&highlight=lights&highlightmode=1 

Wizard523 - 2008-11-15 8:59 PM What about just wiring the existing trunk lights to work with the brake and turn signal lights?

Not that easy. Because the existing sockets are single wire for single filament bulbs. You do have an option to lose the running light feature and use the bulbs only for brake/turn. Another way would be to adapt a dual wire dual filament socket to fit into the existing housing, which it appears to be the route Tim is considering.  But from what I know I don't think this is a viable option, It appears that the housing is nowhere big enough to accept a dual filament bulb. But....I'm not positive of this though.

Or another option is to use a module that reduces the voltage to the running lamps so they are a bit dimmer and then they get brighter when brakes and/or turn signal is used. For the time being this is the route I plan on going. The unit I purchased from Randy's is the MLPLOOO from here http://www.soundoffrec.com/products/lights.aspx The reason I say "time being" is because I'm still doing a bit of research to see if there any other options as far as a dual filament route. But I'm not getting my hopes up on this though.

The Priorty Plus module that I linked to in my previous post has a "flash" option. Actually they say that the lamp "pulsates" for 1.5 seconds. I guess the question is....whats the difference between flash & pulsate?

I think I've found a dual filament bulb that may fit in the housing. Its a 7443 bulb, its a bit bigger overall than the standard 194 bulb (which is what is in the housing now) but its not as big as a 3057 bulb. In the picture below from right to left is a 194 and a 921 and a 7443 and a 3057. Only the 7443 and the 3057 are dual filament bulbs. I highly doubt that there is enough depth in the housing to fit the 3057 bulb. But I think there may possibly be enough to fit the 7443 bulb. But the next drawback is that the 7443 bulb has a different (wider) base than the 194. So if it does fit a socket replacement is needed. Which then raises the next question...even though it is a wider socket will the 7443 socket fit into the 194 hole without modifcation???

Oh....if a dual filament bulb can be adapted then no type of module will be needed.

So my next step is to see if the 7443 bulb will fit into the housing. And then go from there.....

Oh, it might be a while before i get a chance to tackle this project further. So if anyone else wants to run with this...please do.

MVC-012S.JPG (41KB - 5 downloads)

slowryder - 2008-11-19 9:05 AM I pulled the mirror assembly out of the fairing last night ans heated it up in an attempt to seperate the glass from the plastic backing. After an about two hours of repeating heating up the glass with a dryer I stopped for fear of breaking the glass while trying to pry it out. Is there a solvent that will dissolve the adhesive that was used to adhere the glass to it's backing. I also spoke to the people at Muth, after conversations with several people the response was,due to a lack of inquiries for VICTORY VISION signal mirrors they do not currently offer the turn signal mirrors that they offer on HD, GW, and BMW. The number is 1-800-844-6616 and email them at sales@muthco.com. Sorry I don't know how to set up link. They were positive more inquires might help push them along, but I enjoy the adventure, just wish it was 70 degs. out instead of 27.

Um...I see what you are trying to do...however I'm not sure if it will work though. At least it won't work easily....

You are thinking remove the glass and install some type of LED in the mounting panel of the mirror and then reinstall the glass and have LED turn signals. Well the issue you are going to find is that the LEDs probably won't shine thru the mirror. The backing on the mirror is going be very opaque. So I guess the question is could some of the backing be scraped away for the LED to show thru? Well I'm not sure, I'd have to look at my mirror and see. I would be a bit suprised if the backing could be easily scraped away though. By the time the backing is scraped away it may end up looking a bit hacked-up.

Yes...a solvent would help loosen up the adhesive that attaches the mirror. Some 3M adhesive remover would possibly do the job, its available at any auto paint supply store. I wonder if some Goo Gone would work? Don't want to go with a strong solvent, may end up eating away at some of the plastic or the mirror backing.

But here is an idea....almost any auto glass shop can very easily custom cut a mirror to fit, at a very reasonable price, probably less than $40. So now the question is would they have a mirror that would have a bit of transparency??? Kinda like a security type mirror??? If they do then they could simply break your mirror glass out and then you go home and do a little dremel work and install the LEDs and go back and they cut and install new glass.

Or we could all convince Muth that there are enough sales out here for them to make mirrors fo us. Would perhaps be a much easier solution. However its going to a more expensive solution though.

wrr1home - 2008-11-19 6:38 PM He used: Kuryakyn Run-Turn-Brake Controller Part #KY-4710, and wired it up for me. Like I said, I now have the running lights, 3 flashes of the trunk lights, before they go to solid brake lights, and they also function with the lower turn signal flashers. Seems to get the attention of folks that are behind me, because they are at eye level.

Any chance we could get some pictures or even better...a video?

The replacement lenses do not cost that much, @ $25 each.  I tried the alter bulb thing and it melted the housing, thus bought replacements. 

 This housing was not designed for a dual element bulb's heat.  To make the running lights into turn/brake, LEDs need to be used.  It would be nice if these lenses could be taken apart, but they are glued together.

HTH,

Tim

rodog - 2008-11-22 5:10 AM Ok were did you do your taping in to the system at...

The turn signal controller harness is located under the console by the ignition switch.  If you have the service manual, it shows you the wiring diagrams and the pin-outs of this harness.  I used this harness to tap the left, right and brake signals to feed the trailer controller.  I then tapped into the switched 12 volt power outlet that is also under the center console for switched running lights.  The trailer controller only pulls a couple of milliamps from each of these 4 lines to power the secondary lights.

HTH,

Tim

I need to lookup the service manual again to see the exact pinouts.

http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1511&start=1&highlight=lights&highlightmode=1

I went out into the garage and got the service manual.  HTH.  It was past 30 minutes so I could not update my last post with this.

The turn signal controller harness is located under the console by the ignition switch.  If you have the service manual, it shows you the wiring diagrams and the pin-outs of this harness. The diagrams are on pages 19.10, 19.11 and 19.12 for this.

PIN #2: 12v Brake Input Power - W/PINK

PIN #8: Right Turn Signal Output - BLUE/RED

PIN #15: Left Turn Signal Output - BLUE

The trunk, mirror and sidebag lights are all insided the seams with hidden mounting to match the style of the Vision.

Tim

Please read this thread for the parts:

http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1511&start=1&highlight=lights&highlightmode=1

Tools Lists:

Phillips screw driver, metric Allen wrenches, heat gun (shrink wrap), soldering iron, ratchet, sockets and extensions, wire cutters, strippers, crimpers, grinder, tin snips.

Parts lists:

Cheese Wedge Running Lights: 30 LED Stringerz (12 inches) - http://www.customdynamics.com/stingerz_led_accent_lights.htm

Mirror Turn Signals: 9 LED Stingerz (4 inches) - http://www.customdynamics.com/stingerz_led_accent_lights.htm

License Plate LEDs: Knight Rider Non-Sequential LED Bar - http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_led_light_bar.htm

Trunk Brake Light: Radiantz 1' 100 LED Bar - http://www.radiantz.com/cart/index.html?c34.html&1

Trailer Light Controller: DrawTite ModuLite HD - http://www.drawtite.com/118190.html

Trailer Light Wiring Kit: DrawTitle Wiring Kit - http://store.drawtite.com/118151.html

Trailer Light Wiring Harnesses: 5-Flat WesBar connectors

Stop Only Light Controller: 12 volt relay

wrr1home - 2008-11-21 7:28 PM Here is a short video showing brake lights, left signal, right signal & 4 way flashers. Hope this helps! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyteShtlTBg

I got mine working like this last night!!! I took lots of pictures and will be doing an instruction sheet tonight as I put it all back together. It is an involved process because you have to take the trunk lid apart and run a new wire for the left light. Other than that it was not all that difficult to do. It took me 3 hours to get it working from start to finish but I still have not gotten it all put back together yet so you can probably add one more hour to the total time it took me but it should be less with instructions.

FireHawk,

Please repost the URL, it is mal-formed.

It works if you cut-n-paste, but not if you just double click.  Results look good.  Let us know what you used to get the trunk lights working.

Thanks,

Tim