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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| Well....I didn't actually lose'em...they just aren't working since I installed my new LED headlights. I checked to see if there were any burnt fuses in the boxes and didn't find anything suspicious but now I'm wondering if there are any inline fuses I'm not aware of. Like the new LED headlights though...they're way brighter than the stock lights and hopefully will out-last the bike so I don't have to take that front end apart again. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| beemerdad2@yahoo.com - 2015-11-12 2:21 PM
Well....I didn't actually lose'em...they just aren't working since I installed my new LED headlights. I checked to see if there were any burnt fuses in the boxes and didn't find anything suspicious but now I'm wondering if there are any inline fuses I'm not aware of. Like the new LED headlights though...they're way brighter than the stock lights and hopefully will out-last the bike so I don't have to take that front end apart again.
The fuse and relay are in the RH fuse box (left side when looking at the bike from the front), and are marked as "Chassis".
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| no in line fuses. Guessing your lights are drawing to much power |
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| That's what I was hoping for....I did a quick check and couldn't find any burned out fuses so I was wondering if a circuit breaker had tripped of something. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| Too much power? I was curious if the load was too low because of the new LED headlights. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| <p>what are the headlights drawing for power. Did you use separate power for new lights</p><p>how good is your battery </p>
Edited by johnnyvision 2015-11-14 6:11 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| The lights are supposed to be a simple plug-n-play though I DID replace the battery at the same time. It seems to drawing "less"...the voltmeter shows slightly higher voltage (if that's the correct way to put it) than before..it ran just a bit over 14 volts before...I'd say it's maybe 14.5 or so but less than 15 though, to be honest, that's just the way it looks to me. I was wondering if it wasn't drawing enough because of the lower draw from the LED's. I replace the 20 amp fuse...it was burned...as well as the chassis relay but still have no heat to the grips or seat.
Curiouser and curiouser. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 804
Perry Hall, MD | As Turk suggested, check the Chassis relay. Nothing that you can tell from a visual inspection. You tube demonstrations available to show how it can be tested. I've just used the swap method of just replacing it with another of same series from the block and see what happens. If it works, you still need to ask why it went out, and that probably goes back to the bulb change. Good luck. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| yes you should charge a little higher cause of the LED's. If you have a meter check for power at plug in then work your way forward.
With a meter and there cheap to buy. Check set for continuity maybe its bad
normal vision when you turn key on meter should be 12.5 volts when bike is running you'll not get a battery reading but a charging meter. That should be 14.2 volts.
Victory bikes do fluctuate in volts cause of the system
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| I replaced the relay and the 3rd fuse today. I got heat to the seat again but nothing to the grips which makes me think I'm blowing the fuse when I try turning them on. BTW...something that seems a bit confusing to me too and maybe I'm just looking at it wrong. The switch for the grips...Hi/Low....Blue for Hi and Brown for low. That lines up according to my manual (19.28 and 19.29 until you read the caption on the picture of the switch...then it tells me that the blue wire should be plugged into the REAR of the switch and the brown into the FRONT of the switch.
Isn't that backward and that MAY be where all these blown fuses are stemming from. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| Looking at the voltmeter again on a ride today the needle wasn't quite half-way between 14 and 16 amps...or volts...so it's less than 15 which lines up with what I figured would happen with the new LED's. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 44
Okeana, OH United States | Having the brown and blue wires crossed on the switch would not make a fuse blow. The high and low settings on the switch would be reversed. Even if you had all of the wires in the wrong place the worst that would happen is you would only have one side of the switch that would actually work. It could be either high or low depending on how it was wired. The other switch position would simply not work. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 190
| HAH! And here we go. I took another look at the wiring again and, apparently black and brown aren't the same. Seeing how I had some black with connected to the switch I found a brown wire and plugged'er in. I'm not sure what the black wire's for but at least the grips are heating. NOW...I have High and Low but no "off". Back to the drawing board.
I don't like to brag that's just the way I roll. |
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lost the heated seat and grips