Auto volume control
gnut629
Posted 2013-09-11 9:20 PM (#144391)
Subject: Auto volume control


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 5
My wife and I are trying to determine if the auto control on slowdown and speed-up is working like it should. We've got the audio programmed to "HIGH" which is supposed to provide the most aggressive turn down and turn up.

Should the difference in volume variation be really noticeable or does this feature, even on HIGH, barely move the sound?

thanks
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fnvision
Posted 2013-09-11 9:41 PM (#144393 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: RE: Auto volume control


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 46
Taylorsville, KY
Mine changes quite a lot on high. I set my volume at 12 on high and it can be a little loud at 70 MPH while its a little bit hard to hear at idle...my hearing is not very good though.
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TDWheeler
Posted 2013-09-11 10:04 PM (#144395 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 30
Carlisle, PA
Ditto for me.Volume changes significantly when I slow down.
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Bashcars
Posted 2013-09-11 10:08 PM (#144396 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Cruiser

Posts: 115
Katy, TX United States
I have the auto volume set on high on my '13 Vision and it works well until I get above 70ish, then I have to turn it up a little.
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Oldman47
Posted 2013-09-12 11:07 AM (#144407 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Tourer

Posts: 573
Central Illinois
The volume changes are intended to be transparent. That does not mean that the real world volume does not change. What it means is that it changes just enough to offset the background noises from wind and engine at higher speeds and thus you can hear about as well as at idle. My Vision does not do quite that well. If I pull in the clutch at say 45 MPH and let the engine just idle it sounds much louder than at idle but at 65 to 70 MPH it does not quite keep up with the background noises so it seems quieter. If I adjust volume for good performance at 70 MPH, it seems a bit loud at idle when I am stopped.
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Turk
Posted 2013-09-12 12:25 PM (#144411 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Iron Butt

Posts: 612


Setting The Timing

Vehicle operators set ignition timing via the specified timing advance. Timing advance, meaning the number of degrees set on the timer before top dead center, will determine the exact point at which a spark ignites the air and fuel mixture. If an owner or mechanic sets the ignition time properly, maximum pressure occurs in the cylinder, enabling optimum air and fuel mixing and combustion, and efficient engine performance.
Advanced Timing

Setting the timing at a high position, or at a degree too advanced relative to the position of the piston during the compression stroke, causes the combustion mixture to exert force against the piston. This force may result in engine damage, engine failure, or pre-ignition system damage.
Retarded Timing

If the ignition timing is set too far back, making it too retarded relative to the position of the piston, pressure in the cylinder maximizes after the piston has descended too far in the cylinder. The retarded spark results in higher emissions, less fuel efficiency due to a higher level of burned fuel and reduced engine power.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/facts_7762156_happens-timing-not-set-properly.h...
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Turk
Posted 2013-09-12 12:28 PM (#144412 - in reply to #144411)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Iron Butt

Posts: 612



Pinging/Knocking

Pinging or knocking indicates that pre-ignition is taking place. Pre-ignition occurs when the fuel mixture in the engine's cylinder is ignited too soon and the piston has not completed its compression stroke. This causes the fuel and air mixture to ignite and push back against a piston as it is still trying to compress the fuel and air mixture. Timing that is too far advanced will ignite the fuel and air mixture too soon and will cause pre-ignition.

 

Hard Starting

In order for an engine to start and run properly the fuel and air mixture must be ignited within the cylinders at the proper time. If ignition timing is incorrect and causing the spark plugs to fire too soon or too late, the fuel and air mixture will not be ignited at the proper time which will cause the engine to become difficult to start.

 

Overheating

If ignition timing is too far advanced it will cause the fuel and air mixture to ignite too early in the combustion cycle. This can cause the amount of heat generated by the combustion process to increase and lead to overheating of the engine.

 

Low Power

If the ignition timing is too far retarded it will cause the spark plug to ignite the fuel and air mixture too late in the combustion cycle. This results in the fuel and air mixture not being fully burning and ignition taking place after the piston has already begun moving downwards in its cylinder on the power stroke of the combustion cycle. The end result is a loss of engine power.

 

Increased Fuel Consumption

Incorrect timing will cause the fuel and air mixture to ignite at the wrong time within the cylinders. This results in the fuel and air mixture not being completely burned and a reduction in engine power. This poor combustion and reduced power causes the engine to use more fuel to produce enough power to propel the vehicle forward, which results in increased fuel consumption and reduced fuel economy.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/list_7443696_ignition-timing-symptoms.html#ixzz...

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Turk
Posted 2013-09-12 12:34 PM (#144414 - in reply to #144412)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Iron Butt

Posts: 612
Power = heat! The more efficient the process, the more power and heat that is generated. This is good and bad. The bad of course, is that too much heat can cause a myriad of other issues, if it can't be dissipated efficiently. So... by installing the ATW, it provides the ability to "tune" the ignition/fuel advance, to whatever might be "optimal" on a particular bike. They aren't all the same, and the different stage maps can also play a role in where the current spark profile is set. So, it may be okay to advance a "stock" map by 6 degrees, but if one happens to have a "stage 1" map loaded that is already providing additional advance, setting the ATW to add another 6 can be harmful and cause pre-ignition or engine knock.

The most ideal spark advance setting, is the one that yields a combustion process that burns the air/fuel mixture the most efficiently and completely.. which, of course, generates more heat and subsequently, more pressure. So yes, those of you getting more power, are doing it from a better combustion process, which results in more heat and pressure.



Edited by Turk 2013-09-12 12:38 PM
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bigfoot
Posted 2013-09-12 12:39 PM (#144416 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Tourer

Posts: 494
Akron Ohio area
Hey Turk, good information, BUT, what's that got to do with the OP's radio volume issue?
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Turk
Posted 2013-09-12 1:56 PM (#144423 - in reply to #144416)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Iron Butt

Posts: 612
bigfoot - 2013-09-12 12:39 PM

Hey Turk, good information, BUT, what's that got to do with the OP's radio volume issue?


They were supposed to have posted to the ATS thread, which is what I was in the middle of reading when I posted those. I have no idea how they ended up here. Maybe a mod can move them where they belong????
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Oldman47
Posted 2013-09-12 3:02 PM (#144425 - in reply to #144414)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Tourer

Posts: 573
Central Illinois

Turk - 2013-09-12 12:34 PM Power = heat! The more efficient the process, the more power and heat that is generated. This is good and bad. The bad of course, is that too much heat can cause a myriad of other issues, if it can't be dissipated efficiently. So... by installing the ATW, it provides the ability to "tune" the ignition/fuel advance, to whatever might be "optimal" on a particular bike. They aren't all the same, and the different stage maps can also play a role in where the current spark profile is set. So, it may be okay to advance a "stock" map by 6 degrees, but if one happens to have a "stage 1" map loaded that is already providing additional advance, setting the ATW to add another 6 can be harmful and cause pre-ignition or engine knock. The most ideal spark advance setting, is the one that yields a combustion process that burns the air/fuel mixture the most efficiently and completely.. which, of course, generates more heat and subsequently, more pressure. So yes, those of you getting more power, are doing it from a better combustion process, which results in more heat and pressure.

Some obvious  misconceptions here. Power is not equal to heat. On the contrary, if you remove power the total heat generated is removed as power, not as heat that the cooling system must deal with. There is a huge difference between knock from pre-ignition and ping from early ignition. Knock is caused by auto-ignition, not early ignition. It does no engine aside from diesel engines any good at all. In a diesel it is considered normal and appropriate. In a gasoline engine it is a damaging effect of running with a source of ignition, such as a hot plug, and a mixture that really wants to ignite before it sees a spark.

On the other hand an engine seeing an early spark might cause a ping by being ignited earlier than the engine is ready for it. This is the situation that Turk seems to be addressing. The tough thing for most of us to understand is that these are very different situations that each have their own causes. I do not dispute his analysis for a "stage 1" download that is already being given an early spark signal. Adding the timing wheel with an advance on it will add to that stage 1 and may take you outside of ideal circumstances. It is why Lloydz instruction sheet has several different suggestions for the setting based on your present configuration.

Please do not confuse heat with energy. Energy is released with each and every cylinder firing. Heat that must be considered for removal only happens when the energy is not fully removed via the conversion of that energy to mechanical energy. That is not a direct relationship. If the piston is in the optimum position when that energy is released from the fuel, it does not add to the heat that your engine must dissipate. It shows up as torque at the rear wheel instead.

 How the heck did we end up with this on a AVC discussion anyway?



Edited by Oldman47 2013-09-12 3:06 PM
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Turk
Posted 2013-09-15 9:12 AM (#144506 - in reply to #144425)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Iron Butt

Posts: 612
Oldman47 - 2013-09-12 3:02 PM
?How the heck did we end up with this on a AVC discussion anyway?



Good question. I wasn't even in this thread when I posted all that. Weird.

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fnvision
Posted 2013-09-17 2:10 PM (#144602 - in reply to #144506)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 46
Taylorsville, KY
There is a radio setting for auto volume adjustment that could cause your radio problem. Make sure it's set to mph and not kph.
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gnut629
Posted 2013-09-25 6:22 PM (#145908 - in reply to #144602)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 5
Where is that? I've looked through all the gauges on the audio controls as well as the instrument panel. I don't where I can change MPH to KPH..

Thanks
Gerry
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gnut629
Posted 2013-09-29 11:08 AM (#146033 - in reply to #144391)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Puddle Jumper

Posts: 5
fnvision, do you know how to change from kph to mph?
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Monkeyman
Posted 2013-09-29 5:52 PM (#146041 - in reply to #146033)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Iron Butt

Posts: 1066
Peru, IN

gnut629 - 2013-09-29 12:08 PM fnvision, do you know how to change from kph to mph?

 http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=5691

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johnnyvision
Posted 2013-09-29 6:40 PM (#146044 - in reply to #146033)
Subject: Re: Auto volume control


Visionary

Posts: 4278

gnut629 - 2013-09-29 11:08 AM fnvision, do you know how to change from kph to mph?

 

read owners book little black button

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