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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 37 Dayton, OH | The workshop manual indicates that the rear caliper is to be pushed towards the rotor to depress the pistons and make room for the pad removal. Is the push merely done by hand or do you have to use a C-clamp or some sort of leverage?? Additionally, the manual says to loosen retaining pin then it remove slide it out to remove the pads; how is this done?? Does it unscrew?? It doesn?t appear to be slotted for a screwdriver or have a hex head for a socket. Do you pull it out with pliars?? Was hoping this was a quick and simple job and certainly don?t want to phuck something up?? A little help please!! |
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Tourer
Posts: 499 Chattanooga, TN | There aren't any photos in the shop manual? My manual has photos, you need to make sure which "retaining" pin it is referring to. It does unscrew, but it is smaller than the ones which attach the assembly together. You do not want to take the whole assembly apart! I think I used an adjustable wrench on mine, if I recall it is square shaped. To answer your first question, you should be able to do it by hand, or you could use a screwdriver wedged between the pad and rotor to do it but if you have the physical strength it is safer to do it by hand. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752 Broken Arrow, OK | The retaining pin is a hex head. Find the size and unscrew and remove it. That gives you access to pull the old pads.
I personally like to do this while my rear tire is off for replacement so I have full access to the caliper. Clean it all up with brake cleaner and inspect everything. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 37 Dayton, OH | Thanks gentlemen!! Turned out to be much simpler than it originally looked. It's been my experience that calipers have to be removed in order to replace the pads. The only other vehicle where the pads could be replaced without removing the caliper was a 74 Volvo I use to own. thanks again for your insight!! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 166 Bullhead City, AZ | One of the simplest projects I have ever done.
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Tourer
Posts: 599 New Mexico | loren2 - 2013-09-08 10:20 PM
One of the simplest projects I have ever done.
Same here - Paid mechanic an extra $10 last time had my rear tire replaced.
Edited by Boots 2013-09-09 9:40 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 323 Troy, NY | how many miles you have on the Vision when you replaced your rear brakes? |
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Cruiser
Posts: 118 Spfld, IL but temp Bay area, CA | I just turned 40K on mine and I have waited too long. Recently noticed that awful grinding sound of metal on metal. Looked at the rear disc and it is scored. I then checked the fronts and they were worn down but had not damaged the discs. Changed them myself--pretty easy job. Will try to get by without doing the back until rear tire replacement in another 1-2K and will have the dealer do the tire, disc, and pads.
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 37 Dayton, OH | GURNZ - 2013-09-09 1:56 PM
I just turned 40K on mine and I have waited too long. Recently noticed that awful grinding sound of metal on metal. Looked at the rear disc and it is scored. I then checked the fronts and they were worn down but had not damaged the discs. Changed them myself--pretty easy job. Will try to get by without doing the back until rear tire replacement in another 1-2K and will have the dealer do the tire, disc, and pads.
Don't wait, change your pads now. It is probably easier than the fronts in that you don't have to remove the caliper. Remove the rear reservoir cap, push the caliper towards the rotor to push in the piston, remove retaining bolt located on the end of the caliper nearest the oil filter, remove anti-rattle clip and slide the pads out. Once you push on the caliper it will have free-play side-to-side. It is really simple. The hardest part for me was laying on the floor working since I don't have a lift. I did use a brick under the kickstand foot to stand the bike more upright because I'm kinda big and needed more room to work and see. Happy Wrenching!! |
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