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Cruiser
Posts: 161
Albuquerque NM | My dad asked me to look at his visions cruise control since it didn't seem to be working. So when I rode his bike and tried to engage the cruise I noticed that red light on the switches come on, but it will not engage. I also do not get the green light on the dash which indicates it's functioning.
If anybody can give me some pointers to find the issue I would really appreciate it. |
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Tourer
Posts: 500
| Check cable connector at the top area by the (106) cheese wedge cover on right side..Mine came out of the holder when I was cleaning under the tank and acted the way you describe until a fellow Harley rider noticed it was loose and fixed it with a pocket knife...Could be something else but check this first... |
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Cruiser
Posts: 156
Bluff Park, Alabama - God's Country! 2011 PW VV | Mine did that riding in a hard rain - dealer said a connection had water in it - dried it out and has been fine ever since. Did not say which connector, but I believe on bars.
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Cruiser
Posts: 231
Desert Hot Springs (Palm Springs area), CA | I had mine disconnect right where the handlebars meet the triple tree. This was after a dealer touched it! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 143
Lexington Park, MD | Brake lights working from foot and front lever? Didn't just switch to led for brake lights by chance? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 691
Manchester, CT | Checkout this post
http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=13910&po... |
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Cruiser
Posts: 161
Albuquerque NM | excellent advice, I will start off by looking at the cable and verifying the brake lights are working fine. I did just install a back off modulator and led license plate ring on his bike and mine. My cruise still works just fine, and I did the install on both bikes so I doubt that is the issue. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | Not sure if your bikes are the same year or not, but my cruise control would not work after I installed a 'Back Off' modulator. I had to add a 25ohm load equalizer in front of it to ground so the cruise control could find negative current. It would show cruise control on (red light) but not active (green light).
The cruise is always looking for -12v to stay on. If you hit your brakes, then it sends a surge of +12v and cruise turns off. If your wires get cut or you blow all brake lights, they show 0v and cruise turns off again. Some of the 'Back Off' models show up as a 'cut' in the circuit. Add the resistor/equalizer before the modulator and connect it to ground. This will also fix any future problems if you want to replace the 3157 brake bulbs with LEDs.
You can test to see if this is your problem by disconnecting your 'Back Off' and seeing if cruise control works again. |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 18
Charleston, WV | Mine went out about 1500 miles, the switch on the brake that turns the cruse off was bad, dealer replaced the switch and has worked fine since then, now 33000 miles. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 244
| Mine Failed after setting in the hot sun with a cover on it. The red lite came on when you turned it on, but would't set. There is another fuse that was blowen. Turned out to be a pinch wire in the dash-fairing area. Too much hot sun on a pinched wire! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 691
Manchester, CT | My Vic mechanic was over this morning. He is the chief mechanic at the dealership I bought the bike from. He too said take a look at the switch. He as the one that knew exactly what the problem was when I had cruise issues. |
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | My front brake swith has failed twice now in 44k miles/3years. Both times affected cruise control and brake lights.
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Cruiser
Posts: 161
Albuquerque NM | So I have gone through everything mentioned with a fine tooth comb, and all signs point to the cruise control motor itself being the culprit. I even pulled the connector off of it, and looking at the wiring diagram I tested all wires and verified that they are functioning as they should be. Everything tested okay, so I have two questions.
first, do I need to remove the swingarm so I can pull it out from underneath? Or am I missing the proper method of removing it?
Second, should I just purchase a used replacement part from ebay? I don't want to be doing it again too soon, but $60 versus $500 + makes a compelling argument.
Any thoughts or suggestions. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| gr8punkin - 2013-08-30 12:37 PM
So I have gone through everything mentioned with a fine tooth comb, and all signs point to the cruise control motor itself being the culprit. I even pulled the connector off of it, and looking at the wiring diagram I tested all wires and verified that they are functioning as they should be. Everything tested okay, so I have two questions.
first, do I need to remove the swingarm so I can pull it out from underneath? Or am I missing the proper method of removing it?
Second, should I just purchase a used replacement part from ebay? I don't want to be doing it again too soon, but $60 versus $500 + makes a compelling argument.
Any thoughts or suggestions.
I would disconnect the back-off modulator first and test the cruise. As mentioned above, there is a known conflict with brake modulators as well as LED lights. Just disconnect it as a test. If that's it, simply add a load via a 25ohm resistor.
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Tourer
Posts: 466
Grand Cane, LA | There is another switch that is mounted inline with the throttle cable that has a two wire connector hooked to it. It is in between the right side tank and the frame. If you look down the opening, you can't miss it. Check on this one. It is suppose to be a throttle cut off of some kind, but it is also connected with the cruise circuit somehow. Just a thought. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 161
Albuquerque NM | Thanks for the advice, I did indeed disconnect the back off, and verified that it isn't interfering with the signal for the cruise control. The signal from the brake lights is the same with and without the modulator in place, so that is definitely out as the culprit. I have also verified that the switch on the throttle return cable is functioning properly, the switch is closed when the throttle is closed, and open as soon it's pulled off of idle.
So back to my question about the removal of the cruise control motor, and whether I should pony up for the new one or take a chance on ebay? |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 32
Galesburg, IL | I had this problem with my cruise on my '10. The mechanic found there was a problem with the switch below the center console. If you look down the opening between the center console and the gas door, you'll see the connector. He said the problem was due to the part of the cruise cancellation when you roll the throttle. I'm sorry, but I don't know exactly what he did, but he said he "moved" the connector so the throttle will not cancel the cruise. I haven't had a problem since then.
I hope this helps. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Incorrect slack in the push/pull throttle cables will also negate the cruise control.
You said you "verified" with the back off module disconnected and found no difference, but did you only use a meter, or did you actually take it out for a ride and attempt to engage the cruise?
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Edited by Turk 2013-09-04 6:45 AM
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Cruise control non op