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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | Ok, so this is coming from someone who isn't exactly a complete m/c mechanic, and can change the oil and check things just fine. In addition, I am, to be nice, 'frugal'. So, based on the view windows, it is probably time for new brake and clutch fluids. So, instead of the dealer service costs, how would it be to simply remove the reservior covers, suck out the fluid in them, and refill the reserviors to their proper level? Too cheap? Would the fluid that is still in the lines contaminate the new fluid too much? Just curious. Be kind.
Edited by iluvink 2013-03-27 8:46 AM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | Be kind, lol, good one! It would definitely, temporarily, make your reservoir windows clearer!
Have you checked what the dealer would charge? Might not be as much as you think. Run it over to Strokers.
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | I like to do most maintenance just to keep 'in touch' with the bike. Looking for chaffed wires, loose bolts, etc. I'm no mechanic, but most maintenance on the Vision isn't too tough. Only thing I have shied away from so far is the fork oil as looks too complicated.
I would suggest that yes, like Okie said, it will temporarily take care of your dirty view windows, but will not fix your problem. You really need to change the fluid. Bleeding them is a bit of a pain. Not hard, just can be frustrating. I did my front brakes, and got a little confused during the bleeding process due to the linked brakes. Had to bleed 10-12 times.
I bought these and it really helped:
http://speedbleeder.com/
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | Does the clutch fluid bleed at the slave cylinder? The Service Manual doesn't show it that I can find.
Edited by iluvink 2013-03-27 11:09 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | I'm not sure. I just removed as much as I could from the reservoir using a turkey baster (Lesson Learned: Make sure wife not home), then bled it down at the slave cylinder. Kept refilling the reservoir until I felt enough fluid had been pushed through the system.
I bought the large sized (24oz?) DOT 4 brake fluid so I could just flush to my heart's content...
Edited by Boots 2013-03-27 11:33 AM
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Tourer
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Dallas, Texas | okie vision - 2013-03-27 9:32 AM
Have you checked what the dealer would charge? Might not be as much as you think. Run it over to Strokers.
Just about any shop has quoted me 2 hours labor, give or take, plus parts. About $200 or so. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | iluvink - 2013-03-27 1:00 PM
okie vision - 2013-03-27 9:32 AM
Have you checked what the dealer would charge? Might not be as much as you think. Run it over to Strokers.
Just about any shop has quoted me 2 hours labor, give or take, plus parts. About $200 or so.
Screw that! Do they also charge for the KY when they bend you over?
Do it yourself. For only the cost of the fluid. And you will know it was done, and more importantly... done right. |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | willtill - 2013-03-27 1:28 PM
iluvink - 2013-03-27 1:00 PM
okie vision - 2013-03-27 9:32 AM
Have you checked what the dealer would charge? Might not be as much as you think. Run it over to Strokers.
Just about any shop has quoted me 2 hours labor, give or take, plus parts. About $200 or so.
Screw that! Do they also charge for the KY when they bend you over?
Do it yourself. For only the cost of the fluid. And you will know it was done, and more importantly... done right.
Those were my thoughts as well, just that I have never messed with hydraulic lines before, either auto or motorcycle. There is a DIY garage that I found where you can have a mechanic 'assist', and at a reduced rate. I am looking into that. Once I do things one time, I can probably do it in the future, by my lonesome. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Do not fear changing out brake or hydraulic fluid. I use a brake bleeder siphon pump from Harbor Freight; expressely designed for this purpose:
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-9247...
Open the brake or clutch resevoir; take out the baffle; attach the rubber siphon hose to the lower bleed screw; open bleed screw and maintain 10-12 inches of mercury (im Hg) meaning suction on gauge as you watch and refill the resevoir above (do not let it suck air through resevoir). When fluid comes out clean; close bleed screw; detach hose from it; top off resevoir and put baffle back in; re-attach cover. Yer done!
I've bled many, many, brake and clutch systems myself. Just be careful that you don't get the brake fluid on the paint.
Edited by willtill 2013-03-27 2:01 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | Take a ride to Tulsa. I'll bleed them for free. Just bring brake fluid, lol.
But really, there's lots of people like me who would help you. Throw the feelers out and surely someone you know that rides will have experience with it but to your original question, no, I would not just try to drain and fill the reservoirs. |
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Tourer
Posts: 500
| I know the owners manual states mileage stages to change the brake and clutch fluids, but what does the real world say...Some say when the fluid gets dark brown, some say every 2 years, others say don't worry about it until problems with brakes/clutch..I would assume following the factory specs, or using your own judgment is best...Just curious what some have done..... |
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Tourer
Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN | I did mine after 4 years. It was time. And the bleeder was on the slave cylinder on my 08. Be very careful not to suck air from the top when bleeding the clutch. I did accidentally, and at least one other owner did and we both had a bitch of a time getting all the air out after that. It's not impossible by any means, but it is a pain in the ass. |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | Well, I think that I will use this place http://www.jackjunkies.com/index.html
It's $20/hr for the use of a m/c lift. There are mechanics available to look over your shoulder and answer questions. Bring your tools, fluid, bleeder, etc., and you can ask for tips, help, etc. Then, once I have done it, I feel sure that I can do it at home myself.
Need to ask, can I use any DOT 4 brake fluid? Not trying to start an 'oil' thread, but I am curious. I have read good reviews of Castrol's DOT 4 brake fluid. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | opas ride - 2013-03-27 8:19 PM
...Just curious what some have done..... I flushed mine at 16K, David on my 2011. I did replace the fittings w/ speed bleeders which makes it really easy. Still have to use a vacuum bleeder on one of them though cause the ABS front has a funky bleeder on top different from the others.
I also use the vac bleeder on the small clutch fitting. Didn't try finding a speed bleeder for that.
and yes Thomas, use the castrol if you want. Dot 4 is the key |
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Cruiser
Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas | Replace the stock bleeders with speedbleeders
http://speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm
That makes it a one man job. You need 6 of them but it's a one time expense and makes it a simple job to flush every year for best brake performance. They have built in valves which close after every squeeze. Just connect a hose to a drain bottle or bag and squeeze until it runs clear, then close it off. DO NOT let the reservoir run dry or you will then have a lot of fun. The reservoirs are VERY small so keep a close eye on them as you squeeze. If you do run it dry, use the aforementioned brake bleeder from Harbor Freight. And be sure to always open a brand new bottle of brake fluid to start the job! With the speedbleeders you should be able to bleed the whole system in less than an hour. Allow about 3 for the first time - take it slow and easy. It's not hard. And be SURE you don't get brake fluid on anything painted.
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Cruiser
Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas | Ooops. Forgot they don't list Vics. Previous posts indicate SB8125 as the part number. Search speedbleeder on this site for more info on doing the bleeding. |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | Since the fluid doesn't save, how much fluid should I buy per change? |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | Since the fluid doesn't save, how much fluid should I buy per change? |
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Cruiser
Posts: 208
Wichita, Kansas | I used about 2/3 of a small bottle for the whole job. |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | So, maybe get two 12oz bottles, instead of one 32oz? OR 2 1/2 liters rather than a liter, depending on brand? In a sealed bottle, how long in the self life of brake fluid? |
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | opas ride - 2013-03-27 7:19 PM
I know the owners manual states mileage stages to change the brake and clutch fluids, but what does the real world say...Some say when the fluid gets dark brown, some say every 2 years, others say don't worry about it until problems with brakes/clutch..I would assume following the factory specs, or using your own judgment is best...Just curious what some have done.....
I was religiously following the maintenance chart, but local dealer told me we have less issues here with the fluids due to very low humidity. I just check every time I change the oil, and if I see discoloration or notice a decrease in performance (even if I just kind of think maybe there is a decrease) I will change.
Did mine at 30k.
iluvink - 2013-03-28 6:53 AM
So, maybe get two 12oz bottles, instead of one 32oz? OR 2 1/2 liters rather than a liter, depending on brand? In a sealed bottle, how long in the self life of brake fluid?
No expert here, but have heard once they are opened they are done.
That being said, I have used previously opened brake fluid bottles with no issues. Just made sure they had remained tightly sealed.
Edited by Boots 2013-03-28 9:59 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| A small bottle will go a long ways, If you didn't know auto parts stores sell test strip so you can check to see if your fluid is any good.
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Visionary
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Central Maryland | johnnyvision - 2013-03-28 7:20 PM
A small bottle will go a long ways, If you didn't know auto parts stores sell test strip so you can check to see if your fluid is any good.
Interesting. Never heard of brake fluid test strips before... I've always eyeballed the color of the fluid. When it turned into a dark urine looking color; that's when I flush it. |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | iluvink - 2013-03-28 7:53 AM
So, maybe get two 12oz bottles, instead of one 32oz? OR 2 1/2 liters rather than a liter, depending on brand? In a sealed bottle, how long in the self life of brake fluid?
Perhaps an answer to my questions? |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Get two bottles... and don't worry about the shelf life. It's not milk :-) |
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Cruiser
Posts: 80
| I am confused on this brake/clutch bleeding. I have the service manual for my 08 Vision. I understand how to bleed the brakes, but I can't figure out how to bleed the clutch. My manual refers me to chapter 15 for bleeding, but that section is for the brakes. In a previous post I learned the bleed bolt is on the clutch slave cylinder, where is that located? Thank you!
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | It's a smaller fitting than the brake bleeders but works all the same.
Here's the fitting
(Clutch bleeder (Small).JPG)
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Cruiser
Posts: 80
| Thank you for your help okie vision, your picture was just what I needed!! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Denny,
Make sure that you keep that vacuum pressure on the Harbor Freight bleeder low (10-12); so it does not introduce turbulence (possibly inducing air) into the system. You will see how easy it is to control once you have everything hooked up to the bleed screw and start pumping the bleeder. Have someone keep an eye on that hydraulic reservoir on the handlebar and make sure that brake fluid is being added; as it is being sucked down through the system. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 80
| Thank you willtill and everyone else who responded;
I went to Harbor Freight today and bought the $28.00 brake bleeder. I flushed both front brakes, rear brake, and clutch. The only thing I didn't realize were the front lower horizontal bleed nipples drain the fluid out of the round rear brake reservoir, so when I took that cap off it sucked in a little air. I think I got the bubbles out because I had good brakes on my test ride. I was a little surprised that the old fluid didn't look all that dirty. I guess living in a drier climate and not riding in a lot of heavy rain might be the answer. A $28.00 bleeder plus $10.00 for the fluid, and I did it myself, compared to the dealer charge of $200.00. Thank you Vision riders!!
Denny Pink
Fort Collins, CO.
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Tourer
Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN | That's the magic of this forum. You're $162 richer! |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | Is there a 'trick' to the clutch bleed? It looks like a pretty tight squeeze. |
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Tourer
Posts: 411
Dallas, Texas | iluvink - 2013-03-31 8:31 PM
Is there a 'trick' to the clutch bleed? It looks like a pretty tight squeeze.
Did you need to remove or loosen the plastic around the bleed valve? |
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Tourer
Posts: 599
New Mexico | Sorry, I just don't remember. All I recall is that it was pretty easy.
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Get a deep well socket to loosen the bleeder screw. Pump the clutch a few times hold lever tight to the handlebars open bleeder. One fluid comes out close bleeder. Do It again and again.
Get a turkey baster and suck the master cylinder dry and add new fluid before you start the bleeding. Set cap in place before you squeeze lever. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Goes 10 times -way- faster (or more) with the cheap Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder. Good tip though on taking the old fluid out of the reservoir and adding new; before you start. You don't even need a turkey baster to do that. Just carefully use some wadded paper towels to absorb the fluid out of the reservoir. |
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