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Cruiser
Posts: 144
| Since I got the bike out this year. It has been idling very high for the first few min's of riding 1500 to 2000 rpm. I have had this happen to me 20 some years ago on my Kaw. But couldn't remember what caused it. I had to go back to old school to figure it out. I went and got a can of carb cleaner started the bike and squirted some carb cleaner in different area's until I found that the rubber for the throttle body adapter has separated from the aluminum and is causing a vacuum leak. Has anyone had to replace this on their bike? And if so how long did it take if you did it yourself and what short cuts are there if any. This is my first problem with my pride and joy since I rebuilt her from a wreck. The first owner wrecked her at 70 and hit a guard rail. Thanks, Dain |
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Cruiser
Posts: 215
W'ford Tx | Can you explain the damage a little bit more? Is it due to the aluminum being damaged or the rubber sleeve? Check the clamp. If it's been over tightened it can cause the rubber to "push" itself over the lip on the housing causing the leak. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 144
| The throttle body is attatched to the throttle body adapter the adapter is then attatched to the intake tubes for the motor. The adapter is made of 2 things 1) aluminum and 2) rubber. The rubber has separated from the aluminum, causing a vacuum leak. It's not the clamp. I know what the problem is and I want to know if anyone else who has had this replaced by either the dealer or if they did the work themselves. I want them to let me know if there are any short cuts to replacing the throttle body adapter. Here is a link to the part, it is number 15, http://www.bairsinc.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1116027&ca... . I am sure that if this has gone bad on my bike it must have gone bad on others. Yours may be bad and you don't even know it other than it will idle high for a while until it's warmed up. It should only idle like around 1200 to 1400 rpm for no more than 30 seconds then go down to about 750 to 900 rpm depending on how cold it is. Thanks, Dain
Edited by Dain 2012-04-14 6:45 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 144
| I put them on there so I know how much a pain in the a$$ it is. I was just hoping there was another way to do it. Maybe I will call LLoydz and ask him. The dealer said 2 hrs labor but if you have to take the lower leg off its more than that. Maybe I will have him do it and have him give me a writen est to hold him to the 2 hrs he says to do it. The part is $63. Dain |
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Cruiser
Posts: 144
| I got the adapter off about an hour to remove it would have been faster if I had a different set of allens. I am going to try and attatch a link the pictures are at the bottom of the page. Dain
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| Body work has to come off to get at them. For the most I have read dealers don't have good mechanics to do the job. All dealers can run over the estimate so don't believe them. It takes me a good hour just to get the body work off and about the same to put it back on. I'll bet a hour and a half to replace the rubbers.
Hell it will take the dealer two weeks to get the parts.
Just saying not trying to bash you |
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Cruiser
Posts: 144
| Like I said in the earlier post it took about an hour and that was including putting the bike on the jack and taking time to look through the book and find nothing and had the wrong allens to do the job. I DID NOT have to remove the body work and I will try to get the pictures to show up on here. If I had to remove the body parts it would have taken another hour at least. I put the bike up on the jack(habor f brand)and placed a paver patio block under the rear wheel with a board to take up the space. Then I used a 2x6 for the front to take up that space. I then removed the wedges, the coil pack, the IAC and disconected the vacuum hoses and wires I also pulled the air sensor but left the fule lines on. I then removed the seat and the panels just below the seat I just popped them loose enough to get to the mount bolts. Then unbolted the throttle body from the adapter plate. I then removed the 2 bolts that are under the seat area for the upper frame that are attatched to the mount for the motor. Then I removed the single bolt in the front that attatches to the motor for the front mount that is also attatched to the frame. Then I made sure I had enough slack in the wires and had my son slowly pull the board out from under the front wheel and got enough room by prying up on the frame and you can see in the frame picture that I moved it up about 2 inchs. I made it so that top frame is pivoting on the tip-over frame mount, because I left those bolts in place. Then I had my son lift up on the throttle body while I unscrewed the hose clamps that hold the adapter plate to the tubes and pulled out the adapter plate. I should change the cams while I'm here but I am in the middle of changing jobs and wont get paid until May. Tomorrow I pick up the part from the dealer Bair's in Canton Ohio they are great I just hope they are not pissed when I don't have a bike with me. Once I got it out I could see that the rubber was completely pulled away from the aluminum so much that I was able to just lift it out of the rubber. The way this was it had to have such a vacuum leak I am lucky that I didnt burn a valve or run it too lean. I am sure that the the new one will do the same thing.
Dain
Edited by Dain 2012-04-17 3:48 PM
(throttlebody-removed-l.jpg)
(throttlebody-removed-r.jpg)
(frame.jpg)
(throttlebody.jpg)
(throttlebody-separated.jpg)
Attachments
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 throttlebody-removed-l.jpg (45KB - 16 downloads)
throttlebody-removed-r.jpg (44KB - 7 downloads)
frame.jpg (31KB - 5 downloads)
throttlebody.jpg (35KB - 7 downloads)
throttlebody-separated.jpg (32KB - 7 downloads)
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Cruiser
Posts: 144
| Well got the bike back together yesterday. The new adapter plate has a new number and it looked like the vulcanizing was better than the old one. It took about an hour to get it back to running because the way I disconnected the upper frame made it a little bit harder to line the bolt holes up for the throttle body but was better than taking all the panels off. Bair's in Canton had a set of cams there and I almost got them to install but they weren't LLoydz so I passed(damn). The tech was working on a Vision installing cams in it and wouldn't you know it, it had one of my brake pedal's on it. I thought that was funny. Well back to my bike, she is running like she should. When I first started her up the idle went to 1200rpm then went down to 950rpm in just a few seconds, just like it should. I hope this helps someone out, if you have to change your adapter plate. Dain
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