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Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | If you were able to do it as the Owner Manual states, I am looking for any tips and tricks that Songfan might have missed in his excellent post below.
http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=7538&pos...
One of my head lamps is out on low beam and I just ordered the bulbs.
The real trick I have is how to get the camera and a light in a position to video record the bulb change!
So if you have done the work your self, please give me any advice you can.
Ride Safe |
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | When I first got the bike, I could not budge the plugs off the back of the bulbs. When I had the headlight replaced due to a broken driving-beam (HS1) bracket, I replaced the stock bulbs with PIAA anti-vibration bulbs. One of those burnt out after only 7500miles, so I found myself having to change it out myself. I found this time though, the plugs came off quite easily, and with my XXXL hands, I only needed to remove the air-filter (and a small amount of skin) to do the job. I ended up putting both OEM bulbs back in and tossing the working anti-vib one away.
Be advised, If you adjust the leveling screw too far up, the inner reflector falls off the screw and drops inside the housing. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | Thanks for that tip Nozzledog, I didn't think there was a loose nut inside the housing, but was wondering because I thought I may have run it off one time. But when I adjusted it, the beam did come down. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | On my first of three attempts to install my headlight modulators; I broke one of the H4 bulb trying to get the damned connector to disconnect from it. Replacing the bulbs is a challenge; to say the least. Be prepared to cuss alot.
I did finally get my modulator(s) installed; had to send the one back from Kisan since it was too large for the back of the rubber boot; and instead I went the modulator that comagination.com offers.
One thing that I did find easier; is that once you get the bulbs out of the housing and disconnected; remove the rubber boot for each one of the bulbs completely. Then install the new bulb; then install the rubber boot over the back of each one, THEN connect the electrical leads to the back of each bulb. Hell of a lot easier then just trying to push the rubber boot out of the way while it still has the electrical connector run through it.... Gives you alot more room in there; for your hands.
Also, remove the metal fairing visor below the windshield, and remove the air filter. Removing the fairing visor will help you see the rubber boots from the top; and if you don't remove the air filter; you're gonna mash up the pleats as well as not have enough room to get your hands in there....
Edited by willtill 2012-04-02 5:41 AM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 935
Rockford, IL | Have said it in the past but guess I'll say it again....
I find that setting the the bike on the opposite side tipover helps improve the angles as far as hand/arm/body contortions. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | Nozzledog,
Were your short lived PIAA blubs the stock wattage? Check out the discussion below between SongFan and myself.
Thanks everyone! I should get the blubs in 7 to 10 days....OK i am cheap and picked the free shipping.
I ordered the blubs below.
http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-70856-Xtreme-White-Antivibration/dp/B003...
From a different post...a discussion on the PIAA blubs.
radioteacher - 2011-05-18 1:44 PM
SongFan - 2011-05-17 9:29 PM
<p>I bought the PIAA's?for the Anti-vibration feature most of all.? (Don't just get XTreme white.? Make sure they are <strong>Anti-Vibration</strong>.)? Thicker quartz glass and a heavier duty element.? Nice, pure white color, 4000k (no blue at all).? <strong>Stock wattage</strong>.? The look great while they last but are notorious for burning out very quickly in cars and trucks.? On a vibrating v-twin, they could easily go out in a month.</p>
I had to read this to finally get what you are trying to tell me.
Let me see if I can sum this up.
Buy PIAA but not just any PIAA H4....
Buy PIAA XTreme White but not just any XTreme White....
You want me to buy the PIAA....XTreme White (in 4000K) but only with Anti-Vibration in the stock wattage.
Let me know if I got it right.
http://www.vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=8822&sta...
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Tourer
Posts: 354
20 miles west of Chicago. | I blew through 4 of the PIAA extreme white antivibration bulbs in 9 months. The last time I replaced them with off brand, off the dealer's shelf H-4's and they have lasted almost two years. I hope you do better. |
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | I replaced both my bulbs with PIAA Night Tech bulbs- their latest & greatest. I'll have to check to see how many miles they have on-as I said in my review posted on this site, I said WOW out loud when I hit the brights at night the first time-great bulbs and hopefully I won't have to pull the housing for a long time-Brian
http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-10707-Night-Tech-Upgrade/dp/B00544ZDDQ/r...
Edited by ByteN2it 2012-04-02 2:44 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | 60/55 wattage.
I had the same bulbs but in 'Star white' instead of 'Extreme white'. I had been told that the blue tint, retains some of the heat and will cause a bulb to burn out quicker, so I opted for less tint. Guess it didn't make a difference.
+ 1 on taking the front fairing cover off. It helps you to aim where you will be grabbing before you dive in from under.
Edited by Nozzledog 2012-04-02 4:19 PM
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Posts: 4278
| I went to the auto store and ask for the best long lasting. Maybe there no is bright as the fancy bulbs but its been over two years.
Taking the bulbs out crank the headlight all the way up. Pull the air filter for more hand room. Good flash light and rubber gloves for putting the new bulbs in. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | Maybe I will have to replace them sooner rather than later...Oh well. I will report on the life of the bulb when it goes out again.
Where is the most popular place to cut up your hand? The air cleaner area? The bottom of the light housing?
After removing the air cleaner, I was thinking about cutting some scrap leather to cover the hole and any sharp edges. Will this help?
Thanks for the help everyone.
I might get the lamps in by Saturday!
Rife Safe |
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | For me, it was the back of my left hand, while changing the left bulb. Not sure on what, and didn't notice that any damage was done till it was all over. It was well worth it compared to taking the whole front end apart or paying someone else. I would also recommend a little dielectric grease on the fittings so it will be easier the next time. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | Nozzledog,
"dielectric grease" I will add it to the list.
Thanks! |
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Tourer
Posts: 494
Akron Ohio area | I went through a set of headlight bulbs in my first year of ownership.
According the the "chart", our high beams are only good for 700 hours.
My first headlight failed (high and low beams) at 17,000 miles and my second failed at 22,000 miles (high and low beams).
Again, according to the chart, that is normal.
My mechanic at my dealership will always change my headlight bulbs.
I'm a retired electrician, and I emphasize the word "retired". |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 752
Broken Arrow, OK | nvr mind, lol
Edited by okie vision 2012-04-03 12:48 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I don't remember rolling the wheel to turn the headlamp assembly last time. Last night I tried to change them but unable to stick my hand up in the small space. Looks like I'll be disassembling the bodywork. I changed them last time by shoving my hand up through the hole and blindly doing it for three + hours. I couldn't figure out what you guys are looking at that helps by taking the silver front panel off. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 849
, FL United States | I have replaced 2 sets of PIAA H4's that were supposed to be brighter than stock. Maybe they were but they didn't last 6 months,either set. Last time I burned out a bulb, I had the dealer install regular H4's from the auto parts store. They're bright enough for me as I don't ride much at night and I hope they last much longer. I disassembled the front end to r&r the bulbs and can now do it in about 3 hours. But I'm retired, so what's 3 hours to me? |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | Uncle! I give up!
I am sorry, I tried to get just one blub done and failed. I could get the connector and part of the boot off but nothing else.
I could not get the boot all of the way off.
Oh well people have been asking for a video of the disassembly of the front end. Looks like next Saturday I will do that procedure.
Ride Safe
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | radioteacher - 2012-04-08 6:57 PM
Uncle! I give up!
I am sorry, I tried to get just one blub done and failed. I could get the connector and part of the boot off but nothing else.
I could not get the boot all of the way off.
Oh well people have been asking for a video of the disassembly of the front end. Looks like next Saturday I will do that procedure.
Ride Safe
They are tough to do, aren't they? Took me a couple of times to finally succeed. It actually get's a little easier, each time you do it (but not easy to do anyway).
Look forward to your front end disassembly video though.
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | It's been a while since I replaced a bulb, almost two years. For a while, it was every few months and to the point I would just replace the one that blew out. I was doing it under an hour for one, and fortunetly I've got smaller hands. |
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Posts: 562
SC, Bluffton | radioteacher - 2012-04-08 5:57 PM
Uncle! I give up!
I am sorry, I tried to get just one blub done and failed. I could get the connector and part of the boot off but nothing else.
I could not get the boot all of the way off.
Oh well people have been asking for a video of the disassembly of the front end. Looks like next Saturday I will do that procedure.
Ride Safe
Many of us will look forward to that video. My time is coming.
Thank you. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Just finished disassembling the front end and went ahead and replaced the turn signals and running lamps. The Wagner bulbs look better built for vibration than the Sylvania bulbs you can get from the Auto parts chains. I get them from NAPA, the other Auto chain. Actually a little less than the two pack at Advance Auto. But there is a definite difference.
For me the first set of Victory Stock bulbs lasted around 40k, some off brand the dealer had only lasted 20k, now I'm giving the PIAA's a shot. By taking the bodywork off, it gives you an opportunity to clean in some areas that haven't been cleaned. Having done this procedure a couple of times, I could probably do it all with no cleaning in about 3 hours. I'm out the same amount of time either way, one way is just way more irritating. I disassemble.
Note - Radioteacher the book informs you you can pull the headlight and turn signals out as one unit, that would be a good step to remember. It'll save you an extra hour or so. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | If (when) mine burns out, I'm going to bungie a flashlight to the fender and use that until I can get down to see Pollo to get lamps replaced. I'll even buy the beer ....
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | pollolittle,
Please post the procedure that you follow. The service manual stinks when it comes to what to remove in what order. Just a list would do.
Something like:
Remove Front Blade
Remove.....
Take off Fairing Trim.....left then right
Belly trim piece.....
Take out the bolts for the ......
Take out the bolts for the ......
Take out headlight and turn signals out as one unit. <---that is a great one by the way!
And other points like...Use a wrench that has a ratching box end in 10mm to reach...... Think Gearwrench.
Ride Safe |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | donetracey - if you make it this far without headlights and bring the Crown Royal (it is Canadian after all), I'll supply the Dr. Pepper and change your bulbs for you. Stop in Wisconsin and pick up some Cheese Curds.
Radioteacher - the book does an excellent job of what to do there is just a lot of flipping back and forth to the different sections. Of course, there is no section I have found on replacing headlights. In the 2008 edition of the service manual on page 3.24, section for FRONT FAIRING & TURN SIGNAL LENS is where I start from. I will see if I can condense it for ya'll and then it can be added as a technical article and then free t-shirts or ball-caps, and then free Crown Royal and then Free Dr Pepper, I can't wait. |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | 1. Remove windshield access panel.
2. Open glove compartment and gas tank lid. Pull up on Console Cover in front of seat and remove.
3. Remove air deflectors with Torx T-20 driver.
4. Remove Instrument bezel by using a soft plastic putty knife under edge and pull towards you. It is just snapped into place.
5. Remove 5 console screws using a 4 and a 6mm allen socket (use with rachet or air rachet). Note the location of the ground wire to be reattached later. I use a rachet with about an 8 inch extension to get me away from hitting the body panels.
6. Lift Console up and disconnect the wires from under it from the switches and the radio.
7. Removing Tank Covers, remove the studs (use 13mm socket), and the four 6mm screws, two up close to dash, one in glove compartment, and one under gas tank lid. Disconnect cables from ignition switch for the glove compartment latch, disconnect the audio cable to the glove box by pulling up on the green square on the connector. For the other cover, remove the fuel door cable at the cover end by lifting cable out of bracket and pulling cable and door latch plunger out of cover.
8. Begin to Remove the Leg Fairing by removing the four screws, 6mm allen socket, securing the front tip over boards on each side.
9. Now remove the belly pan, remove the five screws securing the belly pan, one center and two each under the front tip overs.
10. Back to Remove the Leg Fairing, the aluminum pieces come off with the leg fairings as an assembly. Remove the center bolt under the grill. Remove two screws underneath the headlamp assembly for the left and right grills. Remove the four screws, 6mm allen socket, on top for the leg fairings. Once all is disconnected, pull the top of the leg fairing away from the body to release the spring tab. Slide the assembly forward until it clears the footrest and seat. NOTE: Disconnect (with free hand (sarcasm)) the lit badge wire harness.
11. Almost there, Remove the mirrors, one screw, 6mm allen socket, and bolt, 10mm socket.
12. NOTE: The headlamp assembly and turn signals can all be removed together as a unit, just need an extra hand, like usual. There are four bolts, 10mm wrench or racheting gear wrench, for the headlamp assembly and then two screws, 6mm allen socket, for the outermost corner of the upper fairing connecting the dash and the fairing. NOTE: There is a peg and grommet connection that you have to pull apart to slide the assembly forward. To disconnect the peg and grommet just grab the outer edge of the upper fairing and pull away, and when it clears slide gently forward to keep it from going back in the grommet. Repeat for the other side and then pull the whole assembly forward enough to replace lights.
13. Reassemble in opposite order and clean along the way, just cause.
All of the information I gleaned from the 2008 Victory Vision Service Manual. Pages 3.18 - 3.24 and it has pictures. If I remember correctly this is the way I did it. Time saved by use of a bike lift, priceless.
Enjoy, I'm tired now. Oh yeah, Radioteacher the pics like usual are up to you. I don't know how to take pics and work at the same time.
Edited by pollolittle 2012-04-11 4:00 PM
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Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | pollolittle - 2012-04-11 12:58 PM donetracey - if you make it this far without headlights and bring the Crown Royal (it is Canadian after all), I'll supply the Dr. Pepper and change your bulbs for you. Stop in Wisconsin and pick up some Cheese Curds. Radioteacher - the book does an excellent job of what to do there is just a lot of flipping back and forth to the different sections. Of course, there is no section I have found on replacing headlights. In the 2008 edition of the service manual on page 3.24, section for FRONT FAIRING & TURN SIGNAL LENS is where I start from. I will see if I can condense it for ya'll and then it can be added as a technical article and then free t-shirts or ball-caps, and then free Crown Royal and then Free Dr Pepper, I can't wait. CROWN ROYAL ? Are you out of your mind??? For the cost of that here in Canada, I could buy a new VV everytime the headlight fails. ____ maybe a pint at 'duty-free', hmmm ?
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I thought it might have been cheaper since it was made there. Tell you what then, come on down, I'll go get the half gallon jug from the base for around $40 and three bucks for couple of 2 liter Dr. Pepper and party to be had. What was it you were supplin' again? |
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | pollolittle - 2012-04-11 2:19 PM I thought it might have been cheaper since it was made there. Tell you what then, come on down, I'll go get the half gallon jug from the base for around $40 and three bucks for couple of 2 liter Dr. Pepper and party to be had. What was it you were supplin' again? Supplin' ??? Moi? Me? Canadian Bacon? My delightful sense of humour? Lessons on the metric system? Loonies & Toonies? An IOU ?
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Visionary
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New Bohemia, VA | donetracey - 2012-04-12 1:03 AM pollolittle - 2012-04-11 2:19 PM I thought it might have been cheaper since it was made there. Tell you what then, come on down, I'll go get the half gallon jug from the base for around $40 and three bucks for couple of 2 liter Dr. Pepper and party to be had. What was it you were supplin' again? Supplin' ??? Moi? Me? Canadian Bacon? My delightful sense of humour? Lessons on the metric system? Loonies & Toonies? An IOU ? Tickets, get your tickets!!! To see a drunk canuk and hillbilly Tennessean change a Vision lightbulb!  |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | And ya'll thought this board was gettin' boring!!!! Radioteacher has to come up to film it, I'm seeing Hollywood in my future. |
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Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada |
OK - I'm in! Me and the Co-Pilot will be there as soon as my headlight burns out. If I notice it (I don't drive at night) ....
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Visionary
Posts: 1229
Rancho Cucamonga, CA | pollolittle - 2012-04-11 2:19 PM
I thought it might have been cheaper since it was made there. Tell you what then, come on down, I'll go get the half gallon jug from the base for around $40 and three bucks for couple of 2 liter Dr. Pepper and party to be had. What was it you were supplin' again?
$40 US? Isn't that like $4000 Canadian? How many monopoly games do you have to open to get $4000? |
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Visionary
Posts: 2118
Pitt Meadows, BC Canada | Nozzledog - 2012-04-12 11:24 PM $40 US? Isn't that like $4000 Canadian? How many monopoly games do you have to open to get $4000? NO MAN! Way more than that ! But when Pollo makes us FAMOUS, I will be able to have a small bottle once a year! YEAH !!!! |
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Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | pollolittle,
Thank you very much!!!! I could not have done the work without your instructions. I will add some notes and re-post them.
All,
OK, I am coming up for air.
Good news. I changed the lights out.
Bad news. I did not film the whole thing.
I made a short film about the number of parts that had to be removed after they were all off. I am sure that I will have to do this again and will be ready to video it in the future.
Doing the work is very frustrating just to change the headlamp blubs. I hate you Mr. Song!
Doing the work also puts into perspective the craftsmanship and vision needed to build such a complex machine. I love you Mr. Song!
What I might do is a walk through video showing the work that needs to be done.
I had a real problem that took some time to resolve. Some dealer striped the hex allen bolt of the front bolt for the right tipover. I could not get Allen tip to engage to back it off. That took time, a new bolt and tools to resolve. New bolt....$0.39. That is all it took to do the job right.
Three screws were missing. One in the belly pan and two in the left fairing.
I also bought a steel Harbor Freight motorcycle jack. I posted about that in a different thread.
I will post more later.
Ride Safe |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| The first time I put in the really bright white lights. They lasted one year all most to the day. Went to the auto parts store and ask for the longest life lights not going on 2 years. |
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Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Radioteacher your welcome! I might however try out your flavor of Scotch, if I remember correctly. If not crown royal will do. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 175
Hinton, Iowa | Does anybody know if it's easier to put the boot on the light then plug the plug in (if this is possible) or better toput yhe boot on the ight first. I am most of the way there, Ive got the new bulb in and clip back on..Thanks in advance . Ride Safe, Mike |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| I'm trying the reach up underneath method, and for the life of me, I can not get the electrical connector off the back of the existing bulb! Is there a latch or something that I'm missing?
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Iron Butt
Posts: 935
Rockford, IL | Turk - 2012-08-17 1:18 PM I'm trying the reach up underneath method, and for the life of me, I can not get the electrical connector off the back of the existing bulb! Is there a latch or something that I'm missing? As far as the connector there is no latch. Just a SUPER snug and tight fit. Last time I changed a bulb I ended up fishing a long pair of needle nose pliers up in there to "coax" the plug to let loose. Good luck !!
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Guess I'll go pick up a pair of long reach pliers, but it just seems like it's welded on their.... almost like it'll have to be pried off. |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | I had to remove my assembly the first time and discovered the wire clip that holds the bulb in was mounted wrong. Fixed that and now I can replace the lights with little difficulty. I do have smaller hands... |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 741
Central New York | If all else fails, a quarter stick right behind the headlight will open the space right up. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 172
Prescott, Az | Radioteacher-I eagerly await your video on how to take apart the front end to get at the bulbs. The first time mine went out I paid $170 labor + bulbs. Ouch! The second time I had a rather handy small handed friend try (no pun intended). The boots were hard to get off as they are pinched firmly against the frame by harnesses on each side. The harness does not move so he could not get the boots back on. He gave up. A dealership offered to replace the bulbs for just the price of the bulbs so I brought him the boots and the bike. When I got home I discovered the boots were just hanging on the wires doing nothing. I called the dealer and advised that although I appreciated the deal he gave me, I could have just left the boots hanging and save myself a 100 mile one way drive. He said to bring it back and they would do it right. The mechanic said afyer the second visit that he had to take the front end apart to get the boots on correctly. He said he had them on correctly the first time and I just looked at him and said "No. You did not." He admitted then he didn't think it would matter. Anyway 400 miles later and $100 for two bulbs, mine are fine till the next time. Please make your video, like all the rest you have made, easy for us dumb guys. Thanks to you and pollolittle for all the knowledge. |
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Tourer
Posts: 466
Grand Cane, LA | Man, I wish I would've thought about filming this. I just put mine all back together today. I was making the two inner running lights into turn signals. I thought Radioteacher had already filmed this so I didn't. |
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Posts: 174
Edmonton, AB | Necktie - 2012-08-17 4:53 PM
... The boots were hard to get off as they are pinched firmly against the frame by harnesses on each side. The harness does not move so he could not get the boots back on. ....
I have changed the headlight bulbs several times without removing the whole light fixture. In addition to removing the air filter another member recommended adjusting the headlight up as far as it will go. I did this the last time and it did make a noticeable difference, especially with the limited clearance for the boot on the right side where the wire harness is. Another trick I learned the last time was to use a small pry bar on the harness (from above the headlight) to get a little extra clearance for getting the boots back on. It was tricky using one hand from above for the pry bar while using the other hand to reach up from below and install the boot but it did help. As others have mentioned, this job is definitely "easier" if you have smaller hands.
Edited by Newfie 2012-08-18 1:25 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 612
| Newfie - 2012-08-18 1:21 PM
Necktie - 2012-08-17 4:53 PM
... The boots were hard to get off as they are pinched firmly against the frame by harnesses on each side. The harness does not move so he could not get the boots back on. ....
I have changed the headlight bulbs several times without removing the whole light fixture. In addition to removing the air filter another member recommended adjusting the headlight up as far as it will go. I did this the last time and it did make a noticeable difference, especially with the limited clearance for the boot on the right side where the wire harness is. Another trick I learned the last time was to use a small pry bar on the harness (from above the headlight) to get a little extra clearance for getting the boots back on. It was tricky using one hand from above for the pry bar while using the other hand to reach up from below and install the boot but it did help. As others have mentioned, this job is definitely "easier" if you have smaller hands.
I was finally able to get my connectors pried off with the help of long reach bent needle nose pliers. It did bend up the prongs on the back of the old bulbs. Those connectors get very hot, and apparently after a while, they can become almost fused onto the bulbs. But, putting them back on was easier. I actually got the bulbs in, latched the retaining springs, then put the boots on before hooking up the connectors. You have to be careful that you get the prongs from the bulb out the center hole of the boot. The last step for me was then plugging the connector back onto the prongs. It wasn't necessary for me to thread the connector thru the boot first before plugging it onto the bulb and lastly positioning the boot. Doing it the other way seemed far easier and worked out fine.
Edited by Turk 2012-08-19 9:54 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | I got mine out easy. Bulb was good, but one of the sockets was melted into a blob. I was able to replace that easy. I could not for the life of me get the retainer back on. After an hour and injured hand I pulled the body work. :-/
Edited by cw1115 2012-08-21 5:50 PM
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Camas Washington | Come on people its not hard at all!! Got a friend of mine to help, it was helpful she has small hands. All it take is removing the air filter and the front bezel to provide more light. After we fiqured it out it went fast and easy. I'm a big guy with fat fingers and I was able to reach in from underneath and unclip the wire hing and takeout the bulbs and replace. Next time can probably due it in under 30 min if even that long. |
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Posts: 4278
| what can I say can do in an out 4 hours tops
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I rhink they may have rerouted/ moved wiring harness small items to make it user friendly. The 2008 might be a smidge different
I did it the hard way the first time. Then the second time i did it the easy way above. Congrats to those who can get it done easily. You should make some money or food. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 96
Princeton, IL | I want to thank everyone who posted here with your words of wisdom on completing this task. The pictures Song Fan provided at the first post were particularly helpful as I had never seen the back of the lights and removing the retaining clip would have been much harder with out the photos. I was able to complete the task in about 45 minutes, that included re-reading some of the advice here on the site. Without the advice it would have been a very long and probably futile task. I will echo the sentiments of one person (sorry i forgot who) who posted here, I used plenty of dielectric grease and everything went back together again easy and will hopefully come apart easier in the future. Again, thank to everyone who takes the time to post these articles, they are invaluable!
Edited by SammyJ 2012-10-21 11:32 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 447
Cleveland, GA | cw1115 - 2012-08-21 6:50 PM I got mine out easy. Bulb was good, but one of the sockets was melted into a blob. I was able to replace that easy. I could not for the life of me get the retainer back on. After an hour and injured hand I pulled the body work. :-/ Hmm... I'm seeing a pattern here. I tried changing mine a few weeks ago. The bulb didn't want to come out of the socket. When I finally got it out, I found that my socket had melted and fused to the bulb, and it left one of the prongs from the bulb in the socket when I got it out. Couldn't put another bulb in that socket, so I took a four-hour ride to my dealer so the wrench could solder another socket into place. Ugh. Oh well - it gave me an excuse to let him replace the bulb too! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 103
Duanesburg N.Y. | I'm dreading to have to do mine
Eric |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Eric - 2012-10-22 5:12 PM
I'm dreading to have to do mine
Eric
Ya, it sucks having to change the bulbs. Been there, done that. Hate it. |
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| I was looking and if you could un bolt one running light it would be very easy. There are 4 bolts for the running light. One on each end and the other 2 are below housing. Not sure how you would get at those two. Or how you would get bolts back in on the bottom.
Once the running light out of the way 4 bolts for the headlight and you can get at those and just slide the hole housing out to one side.
Now this is what I see haven't tried it yet. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1290
Ruskin, Fl | Same issue last year Lone Ranger. Had a bulb out and found a melted socket. I was able to replace it without taking the bike apart, but I tried to replace the bulb while I was at it and could not get the #$#%^ retaining wire back on. Ended up taking the bodywork off to get the bulb in. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 73
Sullivan, IN United States | OH Mister Radioteacher. Please can you make a video of changing out the front bulbs. I have seen some of your other work and it is very helpful. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | My Vision is brand new (less than 6 weeks old). Sometime over the winter, I might take a few minutes and remove the plugs and add some dielectric grease. I'm sure I'll have to change bulbs eventually so this might be a good way of making it easier when I have to. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Monkeyman - 2012-10-26 1:06 PM
My Vision is brand new (less than 6 weeks old). Sometime over the winter, I might take a few minutes and remove the plugs and add some dielectric grease. I'm sure I'll have to change bulbs eventually so this might be a good way of making it easier when I have to.
1. It is not going to take you a few minutes (the first time)
2. Have replacement bulbs on hand; it's easy to break the bulb while trying to unplug the connector from it
3. Be prepared to cuss A LOT and accept skinned knuckles and fingers. You will be putting your fingers into Hell's teethy mouth itself.
Edited by willtill 2012-10-26 1:48 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | I wasn't planning on replacing the bulbs this winter, just removing the plugs and filling them with grease. I would assume, being a new bike, things haven't frozen up yet. I was hoping to keep that from happening in the future. I'm not worried about skinned knuckles. I'll be working in my unheated garage so my hands will be so cold, I won't notice any blood until they warm up later.  |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Monkeyman - 2012-10-26 2:51 PM
I wasn't planning on replacing the bulbs this winter, just removing the plugs and filling them with grease. I would assume, being a new bike, things haven't frozen up yet. I was hoping to keep that from happening in the future. I'm not worried about skinned knuckles. I'll be working in my unheated garage so my hands will be so cold, I won't notice any blood until they warm up later.
My bike 2011 was new when I decided to install Head Light Modulators in it. Those connectors are on there just as tight as they would be 2 years down the road. Don't let the "newness" fool you. Be prepared to go to battle and slug it out with those two connectors. And purchase at least one replacement bulb beforehand.
You will see. Guaranteed.
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | In that case, I'll just wait until I burn up a bulb. No sense tackling it twice for no reason. |
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Tourer
Posts: 562
SC, Bluffton | I still remember one of the first posts years ago about this. He said just set the bike on fire. LOL
I will problably proceed with taking the front end apart. Videos sometime, anyone, please. (o: |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | I had a bulb burn out last week at 39K miles. I had the headlight out once before so I knew it was going to take some time. I also searched Vision-Riders for some tricks. I changed it Saturday in 2.5 hours. It was not real difficult, just time consuming. I found a few tricks of my own that will help speed up the process next time.
I only removed one body part to get the headlight out...the aluminum windshield cowling. I took the screws out of the dash cover (under the windshield) to push it up out of the way, but I did not remove it. I did not remove fairings, aluminum legs, turn signals, etc. Did not even remove the air cleaner. The only difficult part was accessing the two screws that hold the plastic bodywork to the headlight. More on this later.
There are only 4 screws that hold the headlight to the frame. There are two on top that are out in the open and two on the bottom that are behind the headlight, but easy to get to. These 4 screws are not the problem. There are two screws that attach the aluminum fairing to the headlight too. These are out in the open under the headlight and are not a problem either.
The problem screws are two that are on a horizontal axis with the bulbs. They are on each side of the headlight and have a black 4mm socket button head. They are behind the headlight and hard to see and reach. Get these two screws out and everything else is somewhat easy. See the photo below which shows the location of these screws. This is the trick I found: I used a 4mm hex key socket on a racket. I started with a regular allen wrench, but that was difficult. It took me a few minutes to find my hex key sockets because I rarely use them. I finally found them and the screws were much easier to remove. It took about a half an hour to remove these two screws. Next time will be much easier because I know to go right for the racket and hex key socket.
Once I had these screws out, the plastic fairing and aluminum legs flexed enough to work the headlight out. You can see in the photo below that all body pieces are still in place along with the turn signals. The headlight did not just fall out. I had to work it out, but it did come out without dismantling the bike.
The bulbs were very easy to replace once I had the headlight out. Like others, I could not get the electrical connector off when the headlight was still in the bike. Pulling on the connector was counter acted by the spring clip holding the bulb in. The spring acted as a shock absorber preventing me from yanking the connector off. The trick I found here is to remove the bulb from the headlight assembly before trying to remove the connector. After I got the bulb out of the headlight I grabbed it with one hand and the connector with the other. They slid apart with ease.
Getting the headlight back in took a few minutes, but it was not real difficult. Some wiggling and flexing of the bodywork and it finally popped into place.
Installing the two problem screws was as difficult as removing them. However, once I got them in everything else went together quickly.
So, not as much stuff had to be removed as I initially thought. It just takes patience, a bit of time, and a 4mm hex key socket.
.
Edited by victoryvisiontour 2012-11-04 12:08 PM
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | Bravo! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| That's great information! Perfect pictures to boot.
Thanks,
Marc |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | This should be a "sticky" I may try it next time. Thanks for posting this. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | victoryvisiontour,
Wow!!! You did it!!! Great information. Please post in the Tech Reference forum!!!
Now that is a video I need to make!
Ride Safe |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | While I was at it I relocated my temperature sensor as described in this thread:
http://www.Vision-riders.com/bb/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=8893&pos...
Now my temperature reading is much more accurate. After parked in the sun, the reading comes down to actual temp in seconds when I start moving. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | I'll come down there this summer and trade you a drink of your choice for help moving mine. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 231
Desert Hot Springs (Palm Springs area), CA | Wow... Fantastic post! I wonder what would be compromised IF you did not put the problem screws back in? Would it be OK without those screws? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 763
Anderson, IN (48mi NE of downtown Indianapolis) | JS5Owner - 2012-11-05 1:23 PM
Wow... Fantastic post! I wonder what would be compromised IF you did not put the problem screws back in? Would it be OK without those screws?
The headlight would be fine because it is mounted to the frame by 4 other screws. The "problem screws" only provide a place for the painted fairing under the turnsignal to mount. Seems like Victory could have made them accessable from the outside. Then cover the holes like the backup sensors on rear car bumpers. Without the screws the fairing/turnsignal assembly may not be solid. Not sure though. Makes me wish I would have spent some time to see what it would be like without those terrible two screws. |
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Visionary
Posts: 3006
San Antonio, TX | I wonder if the top screws could be replaced with a clip like a carabiner. Or a clip like the one on the end of wallet chains?
Ride Safe |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Thanks, to all those who have gone on before me and found an easier way. I got the opportunity to dismantle the beast again. I'm down to 3 hours with chatting involved and some working with two people.
What has been the mileage / timeframe for the PIAA lights? Mine went again at 9000 miles and 6 months. DANG IT! That was with the PIAA Anti-Freaking-Vibration ones at almost $80 for a dual set.
I found the next set of lights at a HD store of all places. They are Extreme Xenon Super White H4 60/55 watt Super Spots. Distributed by WixTech, appears to be made by Sylvania and if that is the case I probably won't be happy with them. They say they are LIFETIME WARRANTY. We shall see, but if they are going to burn out every 10k or so, I'm gonna get good at disassembling this bike.
Anybody have experience with the company or who makes it for them? |
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | I had been using the PIAA Night Tech bulbs ($45 a pair) on my Vision and lost the high beam on one bulb at 12 months/12,000 miles the other one was still going strong when I replaced both with HID last week. Hopefully I won't be messing with the headlight for quite a while now.
http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-10704-Night-Tech-Upgrade/dp/B00544ZD86/r...
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-55W-Dual-Motorcycle-HID-K... |
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Your review of the HID upgrade, cause that's what I'm thinking. ByteN2it - just saw your write up on the install, man I may have to go that way. Have you had a chance at night to see how they work compared to the olden days.
Edited by pollolittle 2012-11-16 11:49 AM
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Tourer
Posts: 482
Beer Collins, Colorado (there is no fort) | I went for a test ride early this evening-these slice through the darkness better than anything I've had in the past. Not a lot of traffic where I went but nobody flashed me. I pulled over and took pics of the low & high beams to give you an idea of how well they light up the road-I was off to one side so it's mostly lighting up the guard rail but you get the idea-Brian
(phpuzWCEUPM.jpg)
(phpI6eUODPM.jpg)
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phpuzWCEUPM.jpg (60KB - 1 downloads)
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | The ones i bought above are more like stock with a yellow tint. The PIAA lights were whiter and more vibrant. My mind is not happy with the switch back to yellow tint. If those are bright and white, i like that option. The stock HID has been on since day 1 and hasn't burned out yet. So, 70,000 miles and five years I think the better option is the HID. Thanks for the pics. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | You can get HIDs in various temps. The temps = color/brightness. For example, a low temp of 4000k will be yellow, 5000k is very white, 6000k starts turning blue and all the way up to 12000k is very purple (with very little usable light but some people think it looks cool). |
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Tourer
Posts: 499
Chattanooga, TN | Cool, thanks for the pics, Brian. I'm definitely doing this before spring, perhaps when it gets a little bit colder. |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | If I lived in TN, it wouldn't get cold enough to stop riding. I'm 500 miles north of you and I don't plan on more than about a couple months down time this year. (I won't stop riding until the snow flies then I'll start back up as soon as the salt is off the roads.) |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 7
Gulfport, MS | Riverdawg - 2012-08-21 6:52 PM
Come on people its not hard at all!! Got a friend of mine to help, it was helpful she has small hands. All it take is removing the air filter and the front bezel to provide more light. After we fiqured it out it went fast and easy. I'm a big guy with fat fingers and I was able to reach in from underneath and unclip the wire hing and takeout the bulbs and replace. Next time can probably due it in under 30 min if even that long.
What front bezel are you talking about?
where is the air filter located? |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 1066
Peru, IN | If you look up under the front of the bike, you can see the air filter. It's got 2 bolts on the bottom of it (facing forward) and 2 tabs at the top. Take the bolts out, pull the bottom out then pull the filter down. The bezel is the access panel at the base of the windscreen. Pull up at each end then lift and tilt forward as there are a couple tabs in the middle (front). The FM antenna is attached to this so as you pull the panel/bezel off, look under it and disconnect the antenna. With this removed, you can access the fuse boxes, the headlight adjustment wheel and the turn signal bulbs. It also provides more light when you're dealing with the 3 headlights. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| Great post! I just burned one out at 26k and have both bulbs ready to replace. Thank you for taking the time to post this! I normally run with high beams on except for night time and I was suprised to see the low beam side went within 100 miles of the high beam.
I also read somewhere that thet are not meant to be run with high beam all of the time.... Does anyone know if that is true or not?
Thanks for the great pics vvtour! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| Holy CRAP! I just replaced my bulbs. Im pretty decent with tools but that was a pain in the a$$.
Thank you very much for the very good directions Victory vision tour! Nice job Sir.
I did have a couple of additions that may help out. The 2.5 hours is a very good estimate, at least that is how long it took me to do it. It would have been slightly less if I had not kept dropping wrenches, sockets, bolts, washers, nut retainers and anything else I had in my hand. They all seemed to conveniently slide down the inner leg fairing, some never to be seen again.... Not sure how I lost a 4 MM allen socket but I did.
With that being said, I followed vvtours directions and they worked well. I did have a couple of tools that helped me, suprisingly it was not a sledge hammer. I also found a pair of hemostats worked well to hold the hidden 4 MM screws to reinstall them. A magnetic tool for retrieving most of my dropped parts was helpful and a 4MM bit in a ratcheting box end wrench was nice, especially since I lost my 4MM allen socket. I also used a 1/4 drive air ratchet on the bolts I could get it on, leg fairings and underneath 10MM bolts. I didnt have one but, A palm ratchet would be a good tool for the hidden bolts.
In addition, i removed the top two inner fairing bolts on each side that hold the leg fairings onto the bike. It was helpful and provided a little more wiggle room. During removal you kinda have to push the headlight assembly down so the huge adjustment knob will clear the steel frame it is mounted on. As stated it is a little challenging during reinstall as well, everything has to be just right.
Another piece of info that may help is the 4 main bolts that hold the headlight assembly in use rectangle shaped retainer nuts that will fall out of the headlight frame at the worst times. I left my leg fairings loose during reinstall and you can see where the two bottom nut thingys go. I used a screwdriver inserted between the headlight and leg fairing to press them into place so they didnt keep falling out.
All I can say is good luck and anyone that says they can do it in 30 minutes, I would love to see video proof of that.... Just sayin.
Edited by Ditch 2013-08-21 4:47 PM
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Someone posted a way to replace your headlight bulbs by actually removing the entire headlight assembly; without having to do it the way that has been followed here. It's on page 3, post 126188 of this thread. Did you follow those instructions? it's actually a whole lot easier than trying to replace them from behind; while the headlamp assembly is still in place....
Edited by willtill 2013-08-21 6:24 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| Im confused, I had to completely remove my headlight assembly to do the change out. I tried without removing it and could only get my bulb half way out. I would like to see it if you can find it. That was not a fun project!
Thanks! |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Ditch - 2013-08-21 7:14 PM
Im confused, I had to completely remove my headlight assembly to do the change out. I tried without removing it and could only get my bulb half way out. I would like to see it if you can find it. That was not a fun project!
Thanks!
It's on page 3, post 126188 of this thread. Did you follow those instructions? |
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| Yes sir, those are the directions I used and they were right on. I misunderstood your post. My bad, i tried to do it without removing it but I had no luck. In my recent post (143332) I was only adding some additional info to victory vision tours post thet you are referring to above.
I will say that I only removed the access panel and the two fuse block covers underneath it and did nothing to the gauge cluster or visor.
Sorry for the confusion, in any case it was not alot of fun!
Take care.
Edited by Ditch 2013-08-21 7:44 PM
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Tourer
Posts: 576
, IA | 110.00$ spent at dealer to replace 2 bulbs! Best $$ I ever spent |
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Tourer
Posts: 576
, IA | 110.00$ spent at dealer to replace 2 bulbs! Best $$ I ever spent |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| One thing I've observed is that if you run your high beams all of the time the bulbs seem to burn out much sooner and when they do they take the low beams along with them. I tried an experiment this time and ran the low beams exclusively and I've got 25K miles on the original bulbs so far. Of course I'm not as visible without the high beams on in the daytime so its a trade-off.
Marc |
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Visionary
Posts: 8144
New Bohemia, VA | Good information to remove the headlight assembly when changing the bulb. I may have to go that route the next time. However, I can change one bulb in about 30 minutes. Simple, remove the air filter, adjust the headlight adjustment all the way to where the light is shining up in the trees. This will give you some more clearance. the harder part is putting the boot back on. Since I'm rapidily loosing dexerity in my left hand, but I can still clutch, I may have to go with the assemblyremoval for the right hand light. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| sonicbluerider - 2013-08-22 11:15 AM
110.00$ spent at dealer to replace 2 bulbs! Best $$ I ever spent
Im sure thats not a bad price for most, it just pains me to pay someone for something I am capable of doing, not to mention all the beer $110 will buy me.... Just sayin.
Edited by Ditch 2013-08-22 10:43 PM
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| marcparnes - 2013-08-22 1:26 PM
One thing I've observed is that if you run your high beams all of the time the bulbs seem to burn out much sooner and when they do they take the low beams along with them. I tried an experiment this time and ran the low beams exclusively and I've got 25K miles on the original bulbs so far. Of course I'm not as visible without the high beams on in the daytime so its a trade-off.
Marc
Thank you! Thats what i thought... I have 27000 on mine and typically run high beams during the day. It was within 100 miles of burning one high beam that the low went with it.
Lesson learned.
Take care! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| varyder - 2013-08-22 1:49 PM
Good information to remove the headlight assembly when changing the bulb. I may have to go that route the next time. However, I can change one bulb in about 30 minutes. Simple, remove the air filter, adjust the headlight adjustment all the way to where the light is shining up in the trees. This will give you some more clearance. the harder part is putting the boot back on. Since I'm rapidily loosing dexerity in my left hand, but I can still clutch, I may have to go with the assemblyremoval for the right hand light.
DANGIT! I wish i knew that yesterday!!!! Thanks for the tip Sir! I hope it is a long time before I have to pull this contortionist stunt again!
I will definitely try this method first unless I just say screw it and follow sonicblues advice!
Thanks! |
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Tourer
Posts: 494
Akron Ohio area |
sonicbluerider - 2013-08-22 12:15 PM 110.00$ spent at dealer to replace 2 bulbs! Best $$ I ever spent[/QUOTE BINGO! While the mechanic was losing skin off his knuckles and swearing at me, I was eating a fine lunch next door. My dealership only charges $65 per hour shop fee, so mine was slightly cheaper. The high beams are only rated for 150-250 hours, so if you run them all the time, you'll burn out your bulbs faster. I also had to get one socket replaced the first bulb change as it was starting to melt. If the bulbs aren't seated perfectly, you'll get some arcing on startup. If you get 30,000 miles before your bulbs fail, you did good. My first bulb failed at 22,340 miles. (Did not change the pair, oops) Second factory bulb failed 1,400 miles later. I then started to run my headlights on high beam during daylight hours and they only lasted 7,000 miles. (Screw that idea) I now have 30,000 miles on this set of bulbs and rarely use my high beams. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 125
| Thanks for the info Bigfoot! I had no idea the high beams were that much lower use. Thanks a bunch! |
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Cruiser
Posts: 142
| i just change my buddy's bulbs... changed them all 3 in about 7 minutes, just enough time to smoke a cigarette...either my hand is very tiny and can fit in between the front filter and bulb or else....
He owns a 2008 vision with the big aluminum frame in between filter and headlight assembly...did you guys noticed the difference of 'workable room' between year models?
cheers! |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 802
| Do you do house calls by any chance? :-)
Marc |
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Cruiser
Posts: 164
Quad Cities, IL | I changed out my own headlamp bulbs today...BRUTAL...but thanks to VictoryVisionTour I was able to do it. I started with this technique from the get go. It took me 4 hours (including a dinner break with the fam to take a needed breather. Here are my thoughts and lessons learned.
1) I did remove the airfilter, I think it helped to have the little extra room. This was minor, only 2 easy to access screws.
2) The 4 screws connecting to the frame...non issue.
3) The 2 red-dot screws above were BRUTAL. I was able to remove the right side (from the drivers perspective) much easier than the left. I started with a conventional 4mm Hex or Allen Wrench. Bad Move. I got the right one off using the allen wrench but could NOT get the left one. After dinner I caved and went to Lowes to buy the smallest Ratchet set with a 4mm Hex key bit. THIS WAS SMART. Made removing the left do-able. This newly aquired tool was key for re-install too.
LESSON LEARNED 1: The right tool helps ALOT...wratchet with 4mm bit as recommended by VVT.
4) There were 4 more screws that needed to be removed. I wasn't expecting this but I don't see how it could have been done without. There were 2 screws that attached the headlight housing to the turn signal. One on each side. Very easy access.
There were also 2 that attached the lower aluminum trim. Also one on each side and easy access.
5) Removing the lens and rotating it 90 degrees down as shown in pic above was not as easy as I hoped. It took more "force" than I felt it should. You have to be careful to get the Adjust knob completely under the Frame Bracket.
LESSON LEARNED 2: Be carefule when taking out the headlight housing...I broke two small round Plastic nubs that helped it mate to the turn signals.
LESSON LEARNED 3: Be careful of Plastic Bolt Holes on housing. I broke one.  Used washer during re-install to hold the broken peice in place.
6) Access to bulbs was great from here.
LESSON LEARNED 4: Put a soft cloth over the headlamp lens BEFORE rotating it downward. I scratched my lens on both sides as it rested on the aluminum trim piece.
7) It took alot of flexing of parts to get this thing back in place. Considering I already broke 3 things, I was not excited about the amount of force and flex it required to get this thing back in place. Ultimately, I got in re-positioned where it belonged.
8) Once the 2 red dot screws were back in place, the rest was a non-issue.
Thanks again to VictoryVision Tour. I don't normally do my own wrenching...and this is a reminder why. LOLOLOLOL.
Next time, I will pay the $170 to RJs.
I hope this is helpful to others. Hasta... |
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Iron Butt
Posts: 825
, WI | Yes I have replaced my headlight bulbs. I only removed the front cover and the air cleaner.
If I couldn't do this I wouldn't own a Vision, sometimes the nearest dealer is 500 miles away. |
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Tourer
Posts: 319
| Yes I have twice, it was a giant Pain in the ass. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1365
Central Maryland | Try doing it with additional connectors in the headlamp circuit(s) - (for headlight modulators). Talk about a pain. |
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New user
Posts: 1
| Iron Butt, thanks for posting the pics and instructions. I would like to add a couple of things learned from removing the headlight assembly on a 2009 Vision today.
For those of you who are not convinced that removing the headlight assembly is the way to go, I found two problems directly caused by techs who had worked "blind" in the area.
1: There is a spare connector, identical to the two headlight connectors, attached to the same part of the harness. I found this spare connector inside (Yikes!) the air filter cavity, with its wire pinched between the air filter and the housing.
2: The rubber boot over one of the headlight connectors was not fully seated, allowing dirt and water to easily get into the headlight housing.
Both of these issues were immediately obvious when removing the headlight assembly. They happened only because the tech is forced to work blind unless the headlight assembly is removed.
Although you removed only the aluminum windshield cowling, I found that removing the aluminum lower-fairing front edges helped in three ways:
1: It gives you more room to work from beneath.
2: Any loose washers or other hardware that falls out while you are unscrewing bolts end up on the floor, not inside the fairing. (Where they are hard to see and retrieve- don't ask how I know!)
3: The headlight assembly becomes even easier to remove and install.
The trade off is that you need to remove about a dozen more bolts to get the fairing edges off. None of them are too hard. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a couple of different length extensions.
And speaking of bolts, you refer to the hex head bolts (There are four) as screws. That had me scratching my head for a bit.
When I removed the four bolts , the washers underneath the bolts either fell off immediately, or stuck to the rubber grommets for a while and then fell off. Same thing for the rectangular "nuts" , which the bolts screw into.
Before reinstalling the headlight assembly, spray some Armorall on the four rubber grommets. The headlight assembly will slide
on SO much easier.
Lastly, when removing or installing the two black button 4mm socket head screws (The difficult screws.), reach from below and use your fingers as much as possible. By pressing/bending/massaging the fairing while turning the screws with the other hand, I was able to do 95% of the loosening and tightening by hand.
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Visionary
Posts: 4278
| what will give your hand more room is to aim the headlight up after you have the airfilter out |
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Puddle Jumper
Posts: 48
Cornwall England | <p>Hi guys Having read and then reread this thread I changed my bulbs with the air filter off and by hand. I did have problems with one of the connectors being a bugger to remove but by far the biggest problem was the retaining clips. IF ONLY I had been told/whispered/indicated/hinted that you need to push them forward (in relation to the bike) before sliding to the side I would have saved alot of skin and time. Now after the second time of doing this I can do it in about 30 mins and most of that is removing filter, adjusting headlight assembly out of the way.</p><p>Hope this helps someone with their hand stuck up the rear................</p><p>Steve</p>
Edited by Big Steve 2016-05-20 6:54 AM
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Visionary
Posts: 3773
Pittsburgh, PA | I changed my bulbs with out removing the headlight at all. Just removed the air filter and that rubber thing behind it .. took 35-40mins |
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Cruiser
Posts: 115
Katy, TX United States | I just changed them. I not sure what the big deal is, it was not that hard. Getting the boot back on was the worst part, and that was not bad. Having said all that, I am very mechanically inclined, so that my shade my view. |
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