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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | Anybody know what oil filter number to cross reference to and the type of oil. Not trying to start the age old discussion of dino or synthetic. I just know that Polaris has all this made for them and curious as to who makes it. Seems a little steep $60 for 5 quarts and a filter. I know I bought this great big expensive bike and shouldn't bother me for an extra $, etc. I am not above saving a dollar or two.
Unable to find it in my owners manual about the filter. The oil just has to be use for wet clutches with a JASO MA rating. |
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Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | Most Manufaturers a going to synthetic these days. Most of the Harley gurus that I read about in other forums think (based on testing) that Mobil 1 is still the best for engine protection. I dont think its compatable with trans and primary like harleys synthetic. I use Harleys because it works everywhere on the bike. Im not sure about Victory. But sythetic is the way to go . I work for a GM dealer, its tough trying to convince people that a $100 oil change is better for thier motor. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 223
Valdosta, GA | The filter is the same one used for all the Freedom and Hammer motors. In the past I've used the Mobil 1 M1-110. It's a little pricy, but it's a good filter. I've also used the STP SMO-17. It's also a good filter (I've been using the SMO-18 on my Suzuki for years), but they're difficult to come by anymore.
Here's a good cross reference chart...
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html
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Visionary
Posts: 2027
Brighton, TN | I went and got the Mobil 1 M1-110 (a little pricey). Picked up the Mobil 1 Vtwin 20-50 synthetic oil. My manliness has been challenged, I had to open the book to change the oil. Took me a minute to find the oil plug. Pulled the plug and didn't see the gasket. Upon closer inspection of the plug, it looks like a good design for sealing like a automotive oil plug. Decided upon myself, that it must not have come with said sealing washer. Put plug back in filled it with 4 1/2 quarts like the book said. I cranked it up let it run a second to fill filter and oil lines. Turn key off and check level. Oh crap, it is way over full. Decide to see just how much oil I got out of motor. Pour into one gallon container and get a little over 3 qts. Oh, by the way, theres the washer I was looking for. Now, I got a drip. Looks like I need to drain some anyway might as well put the washer back on. Have to pull the bolt a couple of times to get the level back down. I still got a drip, guess I have to replace the washer. Looks like it was wrenched on pretty good, it is no longer flat, it has an indentation where it was tightened. Looks like I get to stop by the dealer and pick up these handy little washers or try and find them somewhere. Any ideas on where to get oil and filter cheaper than Autozone, etc. |
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Tourer
Posts: 353
| The type of oil is a huge debate on these forums, the only thing agreed upon is that the oil must be motorcycle specific without friction modifiers, as far as the use of synthetic, it's not recommended until the bike is broken some where in the 1500 - 2500 mile range. |
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Cruiser
Posts: 223
Valdosta, GA | I did the same thing with the copper crush washer the first time I changed the oil on my Vegas. If you have a bike jack, you can try setting it toward the rear of the motor and lift the bike up slightly. This will cause the rar of the bike to lift, but leave the front wheel on the ground. BE VERY CAREFUL if you decide to do this. It will, however, put most of the oil toward the front of the pan. Always check the level of the oil with the dipstick when filling regardless of how much any book tells you to put in. There are way too many variables in the draining process to get an accurate quantity on the fill.
It's recommended to change the crush washer at every oil change. They're pretty cheap and can be picked up at any motorcycle shop. I think the last time I bought some I paid 25-30 cents a piece for them at the local Suzuki dealer. I don't always change them out, but I do put them back on the same way they come off. That way the indentions match up with either the drain hole of the plug head. This helps to ensure a good seal and you're not re-indenting the washer.
I'm not even going to try to get into the oil discussion. Just do some research and use what you feel is best for your bike. Results WILL vary. Not just from brand to brand or model to model, but also from bike to bike...
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Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | You guys got me thinking. It might be a good idea to get a case of oil and some filters when I pick up my bike. I think 500 miles is going to come pretty quick. I'll probably use Victory oil for the first couple of changes just to be safe. Im with you Mike everyones got their own opinion on oil. Any quality oil is better than nothing. |
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Fountain Inn, SC United States | After break-in, I've consistantly used Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle oil on my '03 Victory (w/freedom engine). I find that it quiets down the engine noise. I've also had good luck with the Bosch #3323 oil filter available at Autozone for $6.
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Cruiser
Posts: 109
| when you drain the oil does it drain all 3 areas or do you have to drop all the oil from the different locations, ie trans, oil , etc or is it like a yamaha drain 1 drain all.
thanks beginner oi changer |
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Visionary
Posts: 1324
So Cal | I took an empty one gallon anti-freeze bottle, put the cap back on and cut a hole in the side. It makes a nice low drain pan that fits under a bike real nice. After, you can remove the cap and turn it on end to allow every last drop to drain. |
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oil and filter