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Brighton, TN | Looking to get the composite Rotors and Pads. Anybody have experience with these? Seen a couple of guys using the Lyndall setup but no review afterwards.
How is their warranty? etc?
The rear brake rotor is very loose and I know the front rotor is also jingling, which means it is getting loose. So, I can either go back with the Victory setup at:
Front x2 @ $160
Rear x1 @ $210
Those are the stock setup silver colored and all @ $530 + tax of $53 and new set of Pads for $138, total of $721. This is a local pickup at dealer.
If I wanted the 8 ball black rotors, then it is:
Front x2 @ $213
Rear x1 @ $216
This is the black rotors @ $706 plus pads $138, total of $844.
Calling Lyndall and talking to Paul, he is giving me an offer of $250 per rotor including brake pads, with a lifetime warranty. But I believe this to be his moving of old stock to bring in the new design. So, right at $760 bucks, gets me all the way around and pads. But to get the lifetime warranty you have to use his style of pad, which is a buck less than Victory OEM.
These are black inner and black composite friction ring. So, a totally black brake rotor that stays black. Pretty cool. Anybody here wanna give a thumbs up.
Having never dealt with them and know nothing of the company or folks thought I would throw this out there to see if there is any insight.
As usual, thanks fellas.
Edited by pollolittle 2012-03-05 3:22 PM
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Pittsburgh, PA | how thick is his rotors?
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Brighton, TN | Don't know!! |
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Pittsburgh, PA | when i had a 08 vision and my rear failed it said 7mm, then when i replaced it, it was marked 6.5mm |
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| If your rotor is good. The manual will tell you thickness. You could maybe just replace the buttons and save $500 bucks
http://motowheels.com/i-7579497-corse-dynamics-full-floating-rotor-... |
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Pittsburgh, PA | john frey - 2012-03-05 5:46 PM
If your rotor is good. The manual will tell you thickness. You could maybe just replace the buttons and save $500 bucks
http://motowheels.com/i-7579497-corse-dynamics-full-floating-rotor-...
damn you john!!! LOL where were you last year when i had to replace my rear rotor...... |
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on the edge of Los Angeles | pollolittle - 2012-03-05 12:21 PM Looking to get the composite Rotors and Pads. Anybody have experience with these? couple of guys using the Lyndall . Hey Poo... Funny thing I stumbled across this post... I to have been considering and alternative to the OEM. I have seen them on and heard about them. At a recent VMC meet I spoke to Kewlmetal Joe about them. He was using theirs on his bike and had positive input about them...
My wifes XC has already had 1 front replaced early on and still one of them has a-lot of runout causing a pulsing front brake. ( Not Smooth) & no she is not an aggressive front wheel braker that stands the bike on its nose.. Hmm wonder if anyone has done that?
Her original Kingpin had a bad rear that I replaced with an EBC and it was just fine
I was going to call them to but I see you beat me to it LOL. The oem's have a steel inner ring as do the EBC brand. These have aluminum. Positive in the weight dept. I have wanted to contact Galfer who is local to me and see what they have but demand is probably low. My 2 Cents.
If they are lifetime guarantee where could you go wrong?
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Apopka, FL | I had the Lyndall Z pads on my TC. Their gripping power was amazing, but the front pads "CHIRPED". Sounded like cicadas were in my wheel. Became annoying. But they stopped me very well. I understand this noise was common with their harder Z pads. Now Lyndall makes a Z Plus. Don't know what the "Plus" is all about. Maybe they fixed the noise. Lyndall pads + Lyndall rotors may be the ticket to no noise. Don't know. |
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Brighton, TN | Ordered them today, should be here before the weekend. Hopefully, so I can get them installed and test'em out over the weekend. WE SHALL SEE!! |
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Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | Much better stopping power, and almost complete fade resistatnce. Ceramic is hands down WAY superior to steel rotors, and metal composite pads. |
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Brighton, TN | Thanks for the input, knew nothing about the product. Any experience with the company? Is the ceramic primarily a Racing application? |
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New Bohemia, VA | I'm probably well past a rotor replacement on front and rear. I'm going to buy a mic just to see what they are. I'd like to look into the ceramic ones, I've heard they are good, but pricey, I'm sure. |
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Brighton, TN | vaolebuddyryder, I'm only considering these, since it is one heck of deal compared to his normal price. It's also $39 more than stock with the discount. Lifetime warranty, using his pads which are $1 LESS than OEM. You could also find them for less than that. Lifetime warranty, according to Paul (the owner), is if the rotor has any issues at all, wearing down, grooved, warped, etc. Then he replaces them. So, long as there is not metal to metal contact. I look forward to the adventure, they would look good on your bike as well. Yes, you probably are outside the minimum thickness allowed, I agree!!!!!!!! |
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Brighton, TN | Some light reading:
http://umpir.ump.edu.my/2122/1/Metal_Matrix_Composite_Brake_Rotor_H... |
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Gainesville Fl Home of the Gators | pollolittle - 2012-03-07 3:01 PM
Thanks for the input, knew nothing about the product. Any experience with the company? Is the ceramic primarily a Racing application?
Lyndall is a very good company with an excellent rep in motorcycle brakes. Ceramics used to be racing and super car only stuf, but technology, and competition has brought down the price over the last few year. Added benefit of reduced unsprung weight, and lower reciprocating mass make for a better handling, and more powerful bike!! |
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Brighton, TN | Wonder then, why more folks don't switch over? |
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| I'll be switching when my rotors need replacing. If I can get the same deal you did. |
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Brighton, TN | Man, this post made it all the way to the end of the second page. I was kinda thinking there would be more interest. Should be finally getting the rotors and pads today. Anyone have an idea of how to test the ability of stopping better to see if there is a marked improvement for your cash. I got a couple of ideas but thought I would see what ya'll got. I'll see if I can upload some pics, haven't tried the U tube trick yet. |
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New Bohemia, VA | seems to me you should be able to tell the difference by riding. I need to replace my front soon, so maybe this will be my option...ceramic and leather... |
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Brighton, TN | One would think, but do you really brake as hard as you can everytime. I'm pretty lazy and just easily brake for the most part. So, I'll be trying to figure out a distance x speed to see if they really work that much better. Cause if you have to pay double the price over stock, seems you would want to see a significan decrease in stopping distance.
That would be the part I'm having wrapping my brain around. If I can already get the brakes to lock and slide then how will the ceramics help me stop any better. Is the material able to grab better and scrub speed before lockup?
Just trying to think outloud. |
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New Bohemia, VA | sounds like a science project, but I would think that the ceramic would work better overall in the twisties or coming off a mountain but not overheating as bad as metal. Just a thought, and I can't offer any proof. Also, ceramic should not wear as much, or so I think, making the price justified by lasting much longer. |
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Brighton, TN | Lyndall said since I got 40k on the pads, then I would get double or better for pad life. For the rotors, lifetime warranty on the rotors. He thought I shouldn't have to replace them. |
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Brighton, TN | Package by the door but the dog peed on it. Gonna let it dry first. Dang dog! |
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New Bohemia, VA | What's the name of your dog, Harley? |
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on the edge of Los Angeles | Came in a Harley box and his dog reacted!
Real interested how they work out for you I hope you post pics when you get them mounted...
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Brighton, TN | If I can remember ill post pics and and see if I can get a baseline for how well the wore out stock rotors work and the new ones. They sure look putty. They look drilled online but they are small reliefs drilled in the pattern. |
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Brighton, TN | Jsp since it did come in the classic timetested, performance oriented brown box, I can understand how he got confused. |
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Brighton, TN | Pics of rotor |
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Brighton, TN | Stock configuration
hard braking from 60-0 MPH:
Front rotor 110 degrees Fahrenheit
Rear rotor 160 deg
Distance
best of 5- 94 ft
Run 1 - 95
Run 2 -114
Run 3 - 110
Run 4 - 94
Run 5 - 96
Run up to 60the cruising along and emergency braking, not covering any pedals or leverage. |
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san antonio, tx | Interesting that the rear rotor is that much hotter. I suppose it's because of a lack of fresh, cool air to ventilate them. |
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Brighton, TN | That was after about a couple of minutes after I parked it and said hey I got one of those cool temp doodads. |
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| So the rear rotor is only one.. Rear brakes are not made to stop you. Only a fool would think so.
Front breaks stop you. |
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Brighton, TN | John this one would be where you would need to explain more, cuz I Just don't understand. I don't think anyone was discussing use of rear brake only. |
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san antonio, tx | john frey - 2012-03-17 4:52 PM
So the rear rotor is only one.. Rear brakes are not made to stop you. Only a fool would think so.
Front breaks stop you.
OK, I'll bite..... What are the back rotor, caliper, and pads for?
I guess I'll just take them off. One less thing to clean and maintain. |
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on the edge of Los Angeles | pollolittle - 2012-03-17 6:33 AM Pics of rotor Get them mounted and tested yet? Pics please
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Brighton, TN | This would be the Lyndall thread and brake pads. I need to change the brake fluid and test again. And update thread what the difference was.
Edited by pollolittle 2015-04-14 1:28 PM
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| rear rotor is for slowing you down and assist you in stopping. Why do you think they put two rotors up front. When you break with the front break the front forks dive down forcing the wheel to bit in and stop.
All other bikes not vision you lock up rear wheel you'll go into a slid and crash.
Look at all dressers they have two rotors up front for stopping. Look at race bikes they have eleven inch rotors up front and a eight inch rotor in rear. Cause the read slows you down it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-f34n_74oM |
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Wichita, KS | Another BIG plus for the Lyndall pads not yet mentioned. Since installing the Gold Plus pads, I don't have the black brake soot problems that the OEM pads produced. I have some, but nothing when compared to the OEM pads.
Edited by Bodacious 2015-04-15 11:28 PM
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| So while I'm getting a new rear tire put on my 2010 last Thursday, the mechanic takes me out to the shop and shows me how "loose" the rotor is on the rear. I'm surprised because the bike has a little less than 31,000 miles on the clock. Anyway, he says it won't be a problem but I should replace the rotor when I get my next rear tire. I had to replace a front rotor on my '97 Concours at 150,000 miles..and that was because I ran almost a full month with metal-to-metal contact before I could replace the brake pads. But the rotor was still tight. Loose rotor or buttons, especially at 31,000 miles, are NOT impressing me in a happy way.
I know this is an old thread here but I'm liking what I see about the Lyndall button kit and it would be WAY cheaper than replacing a rotor that really is in good shape. Is this loose rotor a common issue with Victory. |
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Jasper, MO | Victory uses a floating rotor design and some movement is normal. In fact, if the buttons seize up and the rotor doesn't float, you often end up with a warped rotor.
Ronnie |
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Danbury, Connecticut | pollolittle - 2015-04-14 1:26 PM
This would be the Lyndall thread and brake pads. I need to change the brake fluid and test again. And update thread what the difference was.
Pollolittle, What's the current status/opinion of your Lyndall brakes? I went to their site and I don't even see rotors listed for a Vision. I was going to contact them but figured I'd see what your thoughts were first. Thanks, Steve |
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Longmont, CO | Pollolittle, I got your post on my thread on my wheels. Maybe you can post up here what you wrote here just to close the loop on your thoughts of the Ceramic Rotors and pads. You got me more than a little hesitant on going this route now. Mike
Edited by TheMike 2016-03-29 11:55 AM
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Brighton, TN | Part 1: Ok, it appears I let it slide on catching up on this post. I still haven't done the 60-0 test with the Lyndall Rotors and pads.
On March 5, 2012, mileage 63,000. I installed the rotors and pads. The front Rotors had to have 3 or 4 different sets sent to me. I installed the first set and the front wheel seem to spin on the bike, rode it around the block and found the were getting scrapes on the surface of the rotor. The rotor was dragging on a boss sticking out on the front forks. Paul, said he would send me another set, they also drug in the same area, so he decided he would have them milled to move the rotor over away from the boss. Took a couple of tries and, of course, he started to get irritated with sending them back and forth, I?m thinking I just spent a small fortune on them and he?s getting irritated, jeesh. It takes approximately 2 millings to get it within the range.
Finally got the front taken care of and now on to the back brake. Being extremely skeptical at this point, I start to critique the back brake. It is 5mm thick and the stock one was 7mm thick. So, I ask him if he was going to supply the back rotor in the thicker size. He says yes, but I have yet to see this magically appear. Multiple calls and multiple e-mails and still I have a 5mm back rotor on. He has told me on multiple occasions, since that was outgoing stock and new designs coming out that he would make it right for all the help and R&D I was doing. That hasn?t happened either.
When I first put them on, I attempted to repeat my 60-0 stops, and I could pull the brake handle and push the foot brake all the way down. Checked the fluid, it was up to the full lines. I didn't open the system and the only change was the pads and rotors. So, a call back, to Lyndall, and he says they have to embed in first, etc, etc. quite nervous to say the least.
So, I keep riding and the brake handle is getting stiffer and the foot brake, all better, everything, seems to be bedding in. Then it rains and I damn near wind up in a ditch, due to unable to scrub just a bit of speed. I'm already going slower than normal and need to make a 125 degree left, I go to pull in handles and pressure on foot brake and nothing is happening, the brake handle collapses to the grip and the floor brake goes to the floor. Seems all that crap washes right back off. I wind up on the side of the road, trying to readjust my newly loaded pants "AGAIN"! If anybody who has followed any of my sagas will attest to a bit of pant loading happens occasionally. So, now I'm a bit skeptical as to his embedding phenomenon!
So, I keep riding and the brake handle is getting stiffer and the foot brake, all better, everything, seems to be bedding in. Then it rains and I damn near wind up in a ditch, due to unable to scrub just a bit of speed. I'm already going slower than normal and need to make a 125 degree left, I go to pull in handles and pressure on foot brake and nothing is happening, the brake handle collapses to the grip and the floor brake goes to the floor. Seems all that crap washes right back off. I wind up on the side of the road, trying to readjust my newly loaded pants "AGAIN"! If anybody who has followed any of my sagas will attest to a bit of pant loading happens occasionally. So, now I'm a bit skeptical as to his embedding phenomenon!
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Brighton, TN | Part deux:
I go back through checking all my points and connections. Decide I need to change the brake fluid and it makes quite a bit of difference. I can no longer pull the brake handle to the grip or the foot brake collapse. So, it appears, as quite a few on this site have attested to, the need to keep fresh brake fluid in the system. Don?t ask me why, but it seems this system is susceptible to varying degrees of air, water, or contamination, etc.
Last night, ambient temperature around 55 degrees. I do a mini retest, since this subject is on my mind. The brakes seem to scrub speed better without locking up, if you keep pulling on the brake they will eventually lock up, but it takes a bit. That is why they are probably the preferred braking material. Dissipate heat quickly and grab heavily without the lockup included. I almost wound up riding the tank, it scrubbed so much speed, so quickly.
For the aesthetic side of these items. I don?t find there is any embedding to work with. You rarely have brake dust to worry about. That right there is awesome in and of itself, if you are always attempting to keep the ride, shiny. The rotors never rust, they are carbon ceramic. The black of the rotor surface stays black, and so long as you ensure you have pad material and don?t get down to metal, the rotor should last a very LONG time. There is no lip on the outer or inner edges, it just stays smooth all the way out. They don?t rattle, or squeal, or NVH. So, all around on prettiness or bling or DaMn that?s cool, It?s a win, win.
So, onto wet performance, during the rainy days of spring, caution is greatly appreciated. If you understand how they work and are willing to accommodate for their nature, it is workable. When using these brakes in wet, I have to accommodate for the time it takes to dry the rotor and generate a smidge of heat. Seems I pull on the handle just enough to start friction, takes about a second, and then they work almost as if they were dry. If you need them in a hurry, just be aware, if you grab a handful of brake, they will take a second before they get hungry and grab aggressively. There is a built in delay, of soft, then, oh there they are. I have to grab and then be aware of when they dry and then let back off the pressure, so I don?t shut down quicker than I wanted. Since changing the brake fluid, I haven?t had any oh crappola moments, but it?s a learning curve, which would be well spent learning and adapting to it.
As noted above, I put them on at 63,000, and now have almost 100k. So right at 37k, I have to check tonight the pad thickness and get back to you. But no vibration or squeal, rarely any brake dust, very little to keep clean. Awesome, if you enjoy the chrome or less cleaning aspect of it all. At first, I was very dead set, against, getting them or recommending them to anyone. When you find your way off the pavement in a turn, it kinda skews your judgement. But, since getting the bugs fixed and fluid changed. They are probably some of the best in performance dry, I have ever experienced. Hot into corners, and they just have a progressive braking feel, without a jump from heavy braking to locked braking. Without a doubt, better than stock. The wet performance is as good as stock so long as you LEARN.
Would I buy from Lyndall again? It seems he is still out there and for me to maintain the lifetime warranty, I have to use his pads. So, I will continue to increase his bottom line, by purchasing his pads. I will continue until he proves, his warranty is no longer valid. Going into a big purchase with him again, he would have to earn my trust a wee bit, before I were to bite again. I have another bike I would like to put carbon ceramic on, but until there is a bit more trust between us, I?ll stick with stock on it, for now. There are great reviews about him and the products he sells. I was enthused at the get go, cause he had something different and better. A little better communication and accommodating for a consumer helping him develop his product would be even better. Maybe it was my own jaded sense of spending close to a thousand buckaroos, which makes it all the more nervous, when you have never dealt with a company or the owner before. Then there are problems to work through, I would love to have tried out his new designs and see what he meant by making the agreement good, or he would make it up to me. I had a good number which soon got changed, and the last e-mail from him was a couple of years ago. Maybe he had life experiences to go through, who knows. This, of course, is just my experience.
I?d buy these types of brakes again, just because I know now what it takes to make them work. I gotta find a day to test?em and see.
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Lyndall Rotors and Pads