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Vision Mods from Across the PondPart 2: LOWERING REAR SUSPENSION
I tackled this one yesterday with great success. I modified the fixed link from the rear shock assembly with left and right hand threaded studs and a threaded sleeve so that it is now adjustable between stock length and one inch shorter. This gives a maximum two inches drop - and it can be adjusted in-situ. I set it at one-inch drop and I'm now far more confident pulling up at junctions. I can now almost flat-foot when I stop.
 The first job was to make two shaped wooden supports for my lift. I used a profile gauge to transfer the shape of the underside of the engine to the wood then machined the wood on my milling machine.
When the bike was lifted under the engine I used a small scissor jack to support the rear wheel and removed the bottom bolts from the shock absorber and the link where they join the swinging arm. With the seat removed access to the top link bolt is easy and the main pivot pin slides out rearward once the retaining bolt is removed. I calculated that the link had to end up half an inch shorter than stock to lower the bike one inch but the total tube removed was more like three inches to allow for the adjuster components. I chose 1/2" UNF bolts for the adjuster because they fit nicely inside the cut ends of the tube (with a little shim to keep it all straight and parallel). I welded around the bolt and also made two plug-welds half an inch from the ends. I figured the only stress on the link is compression so 1/2" bolts are more than adequate.
 I lowered the front but discovered it'll only go down a maximum of 5/8" before the fork tubes make contact with the handlebars. The headlamp needed adjustment but otherwise all is fine. Went out shower-dodging this afternoon and managed to scrape a couple of times on hard cornering but not enough to change my riding style.
It was very gusty out there but I felt none of the side wind instability others have felt. My V-Rod is a sailboat by comparison. Also, I completed the changeover of all the lower engine casing bolts to polished stainless - a vast improvement over the dull zinc plated factory ones.
Part 3: MOVING THE GEAR LEVER
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